Beautiful truck. Keep it stock until you are very clear about what you want to change. They're only original once. I happen to like the boards and fenders on mine. The bed on mine was shortened before I got it and I like the way it looks. Look around and see what you like about '34 Ford trucks and build yours the way YOU want it!
Jeff, I am running basically that same intake and carb combination, I have both carbs opening simultaneously. The other thing I like about that manifold is that you can run your stock generator in the stock location. You were asking about Jets, I am running .045 jets in mine and it runs great although it is a mercury motor (4" crank) I would probably start there. Here is what it sounds like.
Alittle better. Not much. I think you should keep those scoops attached to the boogie board boat part on the wall.
Stupid question. I'm working on my intake. There's a vacuum line that goes from the manifold (carb base) to the front cover near the distributor on my '48 flattie. What is this vacuum line for, and do I need to keep it in place?
Yes, the early flathead gets it's advance totally from centrifugal weights. In very low vacuum situations a "brake" retards the advance so you don't get ping on cheap gas. Vacuum draws a piston up and releases the 'brake' so you get full advance. So yes, you need that line.
So on a 59a where does the vacuum source come from ? I am using an early Edelbrock regular dual intake and a pair of Stromberg 97's that do not have a vacuum port.
I'll defer to the guys with more knowledge than me. I'm a '37 - '41 stock guy. But any manifold vacuum anywhere you can find it should be fine. Also, with modern fuels, I think removing the brake and just going with the centrifugal advance no brake needed probably is viable too. Maybe best option for a hot rod. Like I say, I'll defer. I have enough trouble making one carb work right. I love my wife, but I don't want two.
You can either drill a source at the intake or add an adapter Plate under your carb with a boss installed there.
Got it. I'll re-plumb the vacuum line. Thank you for the feedback. I guess it was not clear to me since the vacuum line didn't go to the dizzy. This place is awesome
Last weekend, I removed my oil filter canister and lines. I plugged the pan with a 1/4" NPT plug, but when I went to remove the fitting from the back of the block, it wouldn't budge. I tried with everything I had that fit in the tight space, but just kept rounding over the fitting. After many colorful metaphors and bloody knuckles, I turned to my stud remover and tried that. It didn't work either, but it did a nifty job of breaking off the head of my oil pressure sending unit (Arrrrrrghhh). The remainder of that fitting came out fine. So I turned back to the other one. I ended up driving a 12 point socket over the fitting and used a ratchet and extension to pull the fitting. Once I got the socket pounded over the fitting, it turned out O.K. So I went to my local hardware store and NAPA store to get a new sender and plug for the other hole. Should be good to go now... Now, it being late on a HOT Saturday afternoon, the wife and I decide to have a cocktail (or two). After that, THIS happened!!!!!!!!!
Cocktails then hard work, that's awesome! What's the plan with the front end/ axle? General cleanup and service or are you going to have it dropped?
General cleanup. Reverse eye on the main leaf and remove a handful of leaves. Hoping that will drop the front by ~2". Also need to either bush the brake rod clevis's or weld and re-drill them while I've got it this far down.
I think the scoops are worth looking into. Best with the opening to the rear. Can't put my finger on what is wrong with the base, maybe if they were on one common base but with a radius cut in between the scoops. Or if the base had a little rise, some flow to match the grace of the upper. Seems period unique to me, i would have cannibalized some old water skis in a heartbeat when I was a kid. Matt
On the scoops if you face them both forward have the rear one spaced a little higher while the front one stays at the top of the carb. Facing rearward I'd keep them at the same height. Or modify to be one scoop for both carbs and that could go either direction. Another approach would be trimming them down to look a little more proportional to the carbs yet retain the unique design. Neat and unique idea.
Glass rear fenders and some other snapped on stuff but I would not mind taking it on. Mech brakes. Original top bows and windshield. Not much rot for a MT car.
So, I'm going deeper on the front suspension than I had originally planned. I had just planned for reverse eye on main leaf and some cleanup. Then when I was pressing out the old bushings, I found some other stuff I would like to fix. As I'm disassembling the front, I found that one of the spring perch nuts is pretty damaged. The other side came off OK, but took me jumping on a breaker bar to release. This side won't budge. I've tried the breaker and an air impact. Should I use the Tardel method and apply heat? Or just keep adding PB and wait for it to work?
that one damaged crenellation on the castle nut is applying crimp tension. carefully grind it off/back and try again.
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