Projects 460 into 55 Ford wagon

I am building my wife a new car. She is a school teacher. She has been driving a 73 Mach 1/460 for seventeen years, and for seven years before that a 71 Mach 1/460. She sometimes needs space to haul stuff. This will be a 55 Ford wagon/460. I have a few details to work out. We are hoping to get it functional, if still ugly, by 2016 HR Power Tour time.

The rear will get a nine inch with disks. The front will get disks somehow, but I don't want someones multi-thousand dollar kit.

Will the 55 front suspension support a 460?

Since this is called the Hokey Ass Message Board, I assume any idea is open for discussion. I have two twin I beam trucks. I like the design. I also have an 84 Ranger parts truck. Wait for it; it has the same track width as the 55. That would get a heavier suspension, power steering and disks in one clip splice job.

Ideas?
TY
Ray

 

- nothing like having a deadline

 

Y block is 625 lbs,429/460 is 640, 55 front should handle it.

 

Leave the front suspension and pick up a Scarebird disc setup for it.

And since I see you just joined let me say welcome. But let me also say take some time to check out the HAMB thoroughly and see what it's all about. Traditional hot rods or at least traditionally inspired. I'm a huge fan of the Ford 385 series. That said, you're not going to get a whole lot of help/love for it around here given that it is not pre 1964. You'll get some, but some of the older curmudgeons might get grumpy with you. Especially if you start talking about putting a Ranger clip on the car.

I think a 460 in a '55 wagon sounds like fun. I've got a 460 build in my near future too. Just keep your focus more on the traditional aspects of the build and you'll be amazed at all the help, guidance, and comradery you find here.

 

Also, I know you said 9" with discs for the rear. Another cheap, strong, and plentiful option is a Ford 8.8" out of an Explorer. The '95+(I think) explorers are all 31 spline with disc brake already on them. And many, many of them came with 3.73 posi units. 60" wms to wms.

I just bought a complete unit w/3.73 posi off Craigslist for $100. And the 31 spline axles are big and strong. Google it.

 

This suggestion might take some flack for being non-traditional as well, but I was staring at an old Ranchwagon the other day and daydreaming. As stated those old Y blocks and FE's are a heavy chunk of iron. I was wondering if the GT-40 all aluminum version of the 302 might put the old beast on a diet. Crate engines aren't horribly out of line with strokers price wise, and they crank out 345 hp right out of the box. It also gives you some newer options for overdrive trannys.

 

The '54-'56 Ford front suspension is excellent. (just check/repair that front crossmember; they tend to rust)
I had a 460 in my current '54 Ford coupe. Engine mounts must be raised, as the exhaust manifolds come in contact with upper control arms. Front sump of oil pan is a good fit, as was the stock one.
I recall we used to go to the dealer and substitute station wagon front springs. (you already have station wagon springs!)
If you keep the suspension, set it up with more positive caster...makes it handle like a road racer.

 

OK, keep me honest as best as you can.

 

Thanks for the warning. See this pic and the next few.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110720715566253280768/55FordWagon#6268241917932609810

 

Ford Powertrain Applications makes shorty headers for this swap ( http://www.fordpowertrain.com/fpaindex/Fordpassenger1.htm ), they'll help with clearance issues...

 

I got this response.
"Well, I don't have a lot to go on for a 55 with a 460... $695 bare with hardware... we are 4 weeks back logged."

 

Hi Ray,
Here in Australia and in the UK we use the Jaguar XJ6 or 12 - Series 2 or 3 IFS a lot.
It is a complete package that offers great independent suspension, power steering, 11-1/4" ventilated discs with big 4 spot calipers, ~60-1/2" wide - flange<>flange, 5 x 4-3/4" (GM lug pattern with 1/2" studs).
The whole unit can either be mounted on the OEM rubber insulated mountings for a quiet smooth ride or be welded/bolted in for convenience.
Not sure if it is viable in your vehicle but I'm putting one in a '46 Tudor at the moment and it's almost a bolt-in fit. There are plenty of them shown on here in F series trucks and the like, do a search.
RHD version shown below.
Good luck.

 

Fairmont spendals just ream one ball joint I think the bottom. The rest is just bolt in. As stated before the weak part on 54 -56 fords is the cross member. They fill up with dirt and rust out. I have fish plated many in the past. good swap . In the past I have installed the following mills in 54/56 Fords. The one I liked best was a 289 swap. But I have had FE 390 / merc 383 and last a Chev small block.

 

Fairmont spindles as mentioned above won't work, they only have a bottom ball joint as Fairmonts have struts.

 

The spindles with discs from a late '60s big Ford LTD and the '70s Torino/Mercury Montego are a bolt on swap. The ones on my '55 Ford came off of a '76 Mercury Montego.

 

Check the 1952-1959 Ford Forum here, lots of guys have done interesting swaps and are otherwise the go-to people on these cars.

 

I used a 78 Granada for brakes and rear axle on my 55. Front spindles and all disc brake parts are from the Granada. One hole needed to be reamed, but I can't remember which one. Master cylinder and booster are also Granada. Then I used Ford Aerostar springs. Total drop in the front turned out to be 3.5 inches. That measurement was right after the swap so I never remeasured after it settled.

I was able to squeeze a DOHC 4.6 under the hood. I would think a 460 would also fit.

EDIT. The center hole on the factory 55 wheels had to be opened up slightly to fit around the center hubs of the rotors and rear axle.

 

I did a disc brake swap on my 57 Ford and used 69 Torino spindles. Mustang, Torino, Cougar, Montego , all share the same spindle up till 1970. After 1970 the spindle pin is slightly thicker which requires different wheel bearings. Pretty sure you'll be able to use your stock 15 inch steel wheels, calipers should clear.

My 57 has a 514 BBF swap. The only real issue was rad clearance. Had to trim the support slightly.




.

 

I have a 76 T Bird and 76 Torino for parts. I could bolt them on, but they increased the track to where there was a tire clearance issue.

I decided not to spend the time trying to piece something together and got a Granada kit for the front, and a custom bracket and GM parts for the rear. All the disks are drilled and slotted.

I replaced the front cross member. See eight pics starting here.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110720715566253280768/55FordWagon#6268241917932609810

 

I know the Brits seem to like the GM 4.75. When I was in England I put 49 Chevy wheels on a 32 Morris.

I got complaints here about my Ranger front end notion. I would think they would like your Jag even less.

The rear disks and calipers are GM, the master cylinder and booster are after market, all other major parts will stay Ford.

 

What "here" are you referring to?

 

Travis I had a brain fart I was thinking Granada and said Fairmont. I am getting old

 

I have a 76 T Bird and 76 Torino for parts. I could bolt them on, but they increased the track to where there was a tire clearance issue.

I decided not to spend the time trying to piece something together and got a Granada kit for the front, and a custom bracket and GM parts for the rear. All the disks are drilled and slotted.

I replaced the front cross member. See eight pics starting here.
https://picasaweb.google.com/110720715566253280768/55FordWagon#6268241917932609810

 

Not trying to hi-jack but where is the 1952-1959 ford forum?
Thx

 

Can I get some opinions on engine placement?

The album starts here.
https://get.google.com/albumarchive.../AF1QipO4EYpDygyPWB5A_eAuZSeBiYq6RnRU5H47VMjT

The engine trial fit starts here.
https://get.google.com/albumarchive.../AF1QipNVrBMOtJDmFFCGo48JiKUR564HfjkTPJD1JYwu

The 2x4 blocks at the front mounts represent a channel that would bolt to the stock pad that is on the frame, and join to the stock 460 motor mount on the engine. The block under the rear of the transmission represents a stock E4OD mount.

As it sits, if I provide a pair of channels with four holes for the front, and a removable section in the cross-member under the rear of the transmission, the engine is mounted. Move on to building a floor around it. Lowering the engine would be a lot of work, but I could possibly drop it two inches.

Please, someone give me a reason to not just leave it where it is.

 

I'm not a big fan of 429/460 swaps into these for just this reason; the engine ends up too high if you keep the stock suspension. This does nothing for handling, in fact it makes them handle even worse than they did with the Y-block. Knew a guy that did one, it handled like a pig.... there's your reason.

If your heart is set on that motor, I'd do a Jag suspension swap/clip as mentioned in post 13. The Jag is designed to support up to a 800 lb motor (the weight of Jag's all-aluminum V12! LOL!) and rebuild parts are readily available (and not any more expensive that any other front end). Donor cars aren't hard to find; any series 1, 2, or 3 sedan, or any year XJS has the same front end. You'll need a rear-sump oil pan, but those aren't hard to find; 4WD trucks and any late-model van will have 'em....

 

You have to go to Forums, then Social Forums. From there go to Brands. Scroll down to 1952-1959 Fords. In that forum, go to Social Forum Tools which gets you to the Join button.

 

The 429/460 swaps better into the '57 to '59 Ford than the earlier ones for the reasons Crazy Steve has stated. The later Fords had the 352 option and the 429/460 is not that big of a jump.

 

I had the body on my frame when I did my 460 swap in a 57. That way I could move the engine back as far as possible to the firewall because your going to need all the room you can get for a proper cooling system. Not sure which oil pan your using but your typical car front sump will get real close to the crossmember. Also the transmission case gets real close in the tunnel. I ground down the two outer ribs on the case about 1/2" to give a little extra room.
Since I did my swap I undated the oil pan to a Milodon 30929. It's almost as though that pan was made for it, fits and clears headers, cross member perfectly.