Technical 221cid flathead

32 cabriolet engine needs rebuiding (piston rings, oil leaks, rod bearings,...).
Opened engine few weeks ago. New parts ordered, cylinders honed and valvejobs done.

Today polished oilpan. 8hours working. 2hours more and its ready for bolt on.

 

Sweet. You have a lot more patience than I do.

 

That looks great. We are as bad as women at a jewelry store.

 

Ha haa ! Thanks.

I can say, that I hate Aluminum polishing. I really do, but.... need to do it if I want cabriolet engine looks good. EWH tvin spark plug heads + PM7 intake are fully polished.

a

 

Man, that's one sweet oil pan.

 

where did that pan come from?? my brother and i both run 21 studs in our model A's.. always looking for more goodies

 

Ask Auliz....seems like I recall Him casting some.

 

Timwhit is right. I have casted and machined one 10-part aluminum oilpans. Casting made here in Finland using my homemade mould. 100% casting quality. 1kg (2lbs) heavier than orig. steel pan.
Oilpan Fits pre 1949 Flatheads.

Still have few left. This is my second "to own use" .

In this engine, I need to change oilpump pick up. In my blower flathead (59A) I have used 4" merc crank (forged) and I have done pick ups using that engine like "jig". 221cid cast crank has bigger counterweights, that´s why I need to change yesterday Morning oil pump pick up ,....

if interested in, 1000.00usd oilpan + shipping 80.00usd. include
-oil pump pick up (need to use short 8BA style oil pump (Melling M19)
-oil stick complete
-front crank seal (one piece NBRseal)
-oil capasity 5-6 quarter

 

Finally short block is ready and installed on it´s place.
First I ordered wrong piston rings. Ordered 040 oversize Grant rings, Bore is 045 over.
End gap was too big. I ordered new rings from Grant piston rings and those arrived last week.
New end gap .011" after I grind rings.

Egge Rod bearings were not what I ordered. Box = STD 1932-38 ford rod bearings = that´s what I ordered. Bearings inside box = 020 undersize,.... Njparts from New Jersey send me express UsPs shipment, Wednesday arrived right rod bearings to my place.

Tomorrow need to install heads, intake,....

 

Today I installed all parts on short block and turned engine on fire.

I can tell You that his engine´s sound is something very interesting!
Howard 363 cam, fixed runners, new valvejobs, new piston rings and little over 8.5:1 compression ratio is good combination. Sounds like race engine,....

2 x 5min and turned off. changed oil, tighted headnuts, intake, oilpan.
Massive outlook with that aluminum oil pan. It´s capasity 6litre, but 5 quarter is good start.

Sunday need to adjust 94 carbs, change new spark plugs.

Aulis

 

Ready and runs great. no leaks, oilpan keeps oil right side 100%.

Next need to tune up ignition and carbs.

 

Cold engine.

 

Warm Engine.

 

Rumbity rump rump. Sounds great at idle. Next after tuneup, let's hear some RPMs. Do you have enough fire in those chambers ?

 

Maybe ingition advance is not enough just now. My Actron -timing light mixed with this double coil system.
I need to pick up my friends timing light (again).

This engine is little strange. Need more idle fuel than my another hp flathead engines.
If try to turn Idler screws smaller, not run good and not effect throttle.
Need to "get drunk" more than normally , then throttle effect is good, but ...

Thicstun intake is different than I have used earlier.

(sorry, my english. I do not know how to explain ,...)
a

 

Am running a new Thickstun intake in my 8ba. 10 yrs now no issues.
Normally if you can't hear any idle changes when screwing in your idle screws, that normally means you have a vacuum leak. Use a propane tank to check for leaks.
Your language is just fine. We all speak hot rods here.
Once you get your idle screws working, unhook your linkages and use a Unisys to synchronize them.

 

Thanks.
Idle screw changes easy to hear . I have also try to use only 1 idle carb or so that I use all 4 idle screw.
With Thickstun PM7 all 4 used is better.Also used different linkages etc.

if idle screws are smaller = not effect throttle so good and not smell
if idle screws are turned more open (all four , 3/4 round) = feels good, engine wake up better, but smells and little dirty spark plugs.

Now I have upper plugs NGK 6 and Lower NGK 4. I have few set old Champion LA-15 Racing spark plugs, but maybe too cold for this use? I looked from old spark plug chart and nr 15 is Full racing, very cold . That plug outlook is good, because I need to shim up lower spark plugs.

I need to drive few times, and continue then. First need to check ing. advance.
2 x 12V coil + 2 x ignitor works very good and there is no clearance in distributor.

There was Max 1 cam in this engine, but last winter I changed it. now I use Howard 363.
Also changed carbs from 2 x 97 to 2 x old 94. Power valves are now if I remember right (4.5 and 6.5). Same time machined heads, because fire rings (gasket) were not between head and cyl.block (3cylinder) --> engine stops all the time and need to keep more RPM all the time. Engine leaks cylinder pressure before my rebuilding. ex owner was used only 1 carb, another were plugged (2x97). He had good ideas, but some of them were not "carry to the goal" and need little finishing


I have tune carbs very good to drive on city and highway. no "dead" areas,..etc. That´s why i like 94 carbs = gives more posibilities, if want to adjust.

Aulis

 

Post video when driving, its sounds so GOOOOOOD!!!

 

Auliz-that's a cool engine! What are spec's on Howard cam?
FWIW- I have a slingshot 2x94's on 59ab and it requires a little more idle fuel to get good off-idle throttle response. It idles and accelerates great, just a little rich. Maybe just the nature of hi-rise intakes?

 

Hello and thanks.
I will take small video when driving. Need to do "tune up" first.

I agree, some engines need more idle and after that give good trottle response.
I think too; difference is just intakes. Old Harrell or Eddie Mayer are rather high style intakes too, but lenght of runners before "plenum chamber" is different. PM7 has extra long primary runners before "PC" (I do not know right english word) ! very long.

Sorry, I do not have Howard 363 specs. I have send them (Howard) 2-3 email, but not answer,... so they do not want to answer because Im not buying new stuff, just asking about old info.

 

Auliz,
Great looking and sounding ride! Where are you located in Finland? I was in Oulu last summer for business. Very nice area!

 

Thanks. Im located in Seinajoki. 350km direct south from Oulu. This Seinajoki area is more agriculture country side than there north Oulu area. My hometown is middle of these cities, but lived now 20y here (minus 2winter in California). Im going to Oulu 7th of May. They have there American Car Show, I promised to bring there 2 x 1932 and 40 panel delivery.

Aulis

NB.
2nd week of May new "familymember" coming to Finland. 1932 5w Project from CA. Next week need to bring home my Fed Project. It has come to Sweden (From Alabama), begining of this week.

 

Now engine works better than fine!
There was only 12-14dec advance ,..... Sound is now better. Same "rump rump" but not so heavy and melancholy than it was.

My first Flathead "no leak". Maybe need to do something that engine start to mark its Place,....

Aulis

 

Video!!!!!

 

Snow coming down from heaven! ..... Video comes when +10dec celcius and sun is shining.

Now need to take trip Sweden and pick up my Front Engine Dragster Project.

aulis

 

Warm weather has arrived to Finland. 20dec celcius every day.

Tomorrow, Friday, we drive up to North (200miles north from here) Oulu city.
Local Am.Car club arrange 35th annual American Car Show. My 3 hot rod are signed up for show.

409cid with m-21 tranny is good "truck" front of trailer. Panel delivery is full of decoration stuff.

And of course we have Blower Flathead engine with us (front side of trailer).


Rgds,AULIS

 

Problem Solved !!!
I was decided that this is my 1st and last 21bolt flathead, but now I can change my mind....

Engine runs good, sound is very good, rare heads, own production oilpan,.... Problem has been leaking engine.
It was leak so much that even cluch was lost traction. When I was drive, oil was not come out (there is big clutch and so much blow inside bellhousing to keep oil "moving"). After turned engine down, oil was coming strongly on the ground.

I have think that my oilpan is problem, but, God Bless , I was wrong.
I have changed HV-19 melling oilpump to old 21bolt original long model, I have glu oilpan better, I have try to make extra seal with industrial fealt band, I have changed smaller 9" cluch and pressure plate........Still have leak stronly.

I bought fibrecamera.

Finally I saw (after 5 rebuilding. 5 time Engine out, installed to engine stand, oilpan out,......) that oil is coming from crank, not from oilpan etc.

Now I have made changes for Bearing and bearing cap. Today warmed up engine (to 200f) 3 times and engine is 100% dry. I have keep higher RPM 3-5minutes before turned ing. off , still looks very dry.

Total 7 times "engine up - engine down".

One possible is that piece engine totally, grind those rear "edges" totally off and make own housings for 2piece 2lip seals (industrial bearingblockhousing 2piece seals). Now looks that engine works and I can leave car for "wintersleep".

Same time I changed cars own 1932 tranny back on its Place. There was missing some tooth in cluster. During summer I found (from Ebay) NOS cluster and changed same time bearings for 2RS (sealed) version. I like that tranny, because I have original floor woods + covers + handbrake which is bolted on to original 32 shifter tower. This tranny fits 100% for this car. Last summer I was use 1938 syncro tranny, but that is "too hitech" for this car.

Aulis

 

Great stuff Aulis . . . glad you found the issue. I HATE oil leaks . . . which means most people think I should hate flatheads and original 3-speed transmissions. I look at it as more of a challenge - what can we do to improve these systems, provide better seals and reduce the oil leakage issues. I've come up with some new/different ways to seal up the transmissions - am just getting ready to try it this week. I'm even going to use Redline synthetic gear lube (as I love that stuff) - in the past, I would have had to have a big 'collector pan' on the floor to catch all of it that would leak out - we'll see if my 'improvements' actually work!

 

Glad you stayed with it.

 

Nice stuff you have there! Keep up the good work.
Dave