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Budget 1952 Chevy build!!

Discussion in 'Traditional Customs' started by manic, Apr 2, 2016.

  1. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    Hi everyone!! So this is my project 1952 Chevy. Love the site lots of good info!! [​IMG][​IMG]

    That's the current state of project. Working on the rear end swap.
     
  2. ACO.OG
    Joined: Dec 10, 2015
    Posts: 137

    ACO.OG

    Cool. What's your plans?
     
  3. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    The plan for this car is a safe custom.
    I'm doing an engine/trans swap. 355 and turbo 350
    Swapping out rear end for a s10 unit. Also doing the chassis engineering rear leaf kit.

    Also going to try and run the stock front suspension with disc brake upgrade. Big problem with that is steering box has what I think is a major issue you can turn the steering wheel one whole turn with nothing happen to the wheels.. Not sure if it can be rebuilt..

    I'm always open to help and suggestions..
     
  4. Gear boxes can be rebuilt, or replaced.
    Steering linkage is readily available, as well.
    NAPA has lots of front end items at reasonable prices.
    Basically the same front end as Corvettes, going up to 1962.
    If you REALLY have one full turn in the wheel, without any action, that's a big problem needing a high priority for repair.
     

  5. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    That's next on the old list after I get the rear end in place. I found a local shop that will rebuild it if it's not junk.. Not sure what that will cost me..
     
  6. Be certain the local shop has experience with this older stuff.
    Easy for those, not in the know, to say something is "junk", if they don't want or know how to repair it.
    Also, you may already know that the steering column is part of the factory gearbox.
    Below is an overhaul kit from Chevsofthe40's.
    https://www.chevsofthe40s.com/detail/7671/Chevrolet_Steering_Gear_Box_Overhaul_Kit.html
    Below is a detailed tutorial, overhauling the gear box. You can buy a kit, then proceed. You'll see the white column still attached, as the overhaul is being done.
    http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/225413/
     
    Last edited: Apr 2, 2016
  7. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    Wow that's great info!! I think I will give it a shot before paying some one. Thanks for the link.
     
  8. You're welcome and good luck with the rebuild!
     
  9. ACO.OG
    Joined: Dec 10, 2015
    Posts: 137

    ACO.OG

    I just did a disc upgrade on the stock suspension. Easy swap. Very straight forward.
     
  10. Whose kit did you use?
     
  11. ACO.OG
    Joined: Dec 10, 2015
    Posts: 137

    ACO.OG

    I ordered the kit through speedway. CPP was the brand that I received.

    image.jpeg
     
  12. jeffyg82
    Joined: Dec 23, 2013
    Posts: 108

    jeffyg82



    I put chassis engineering rear leafs in my car and am very displeased with them they settled over 2 inches, the springredients pack has waves with gap in places between the springs (bazaar to look at) and if you rail a corner the rear will sway over an 1 1/2 and my tire rubs the frame...... so I think their spiny kit it over priced junk... anyhow enjoy the build I know I'll be keeping an eye on it :)
     
  13. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    Thanks for the heads up. I have not purchased a kit. Still working on getting the old rivets out. Any idea on a better kit or option?
     
  14. Regarding the rear springs, you can save a heck of a lot of work, by not removing the original spring mounts.
    POSIE springs are available, to fit in the original stock spring widths, in the stock height, or lowered.
    You tell Posie your car year, and what rear you're using.
    Posie places the spring locator pin spring for you, so the wheel is centered in the wheel opening.
     
  15. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    So quick update. Got a crazy deal on a good used steering box from a member!! Can't wait to start on the front end.

    [​IMG]

    This is the current tail lights on the car and they are fiberglassed in.. This is going to be a fun mess to tackle.. Any advice would be great. Would like to use 54 tail lights because I already have them.
     
  16. rhd
    Joined: Dec 2, 2008
    Posts: 351

    rhd
    Member
    from austin tx

    I have 1 good 54 bucket, and another that's in a few pieces, I just did 55 plymouth tail lights on my car. If you need them shoot me a msg

    Sent from my SM-G920T using H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
  17. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic


    PM sent! Thanks
     
  18. butcherted
    Joined: Oct 17, 2006
    Posts: 761

    butcherted
    Member
    from hagerstown

    Looks good, They make nice drivers
     
  19. The car in my avatar is the car I'm working on. I need to do a rearend swap and am wondering how the S10 rearend fit. How much fabrication was required to mount it.
    thanks
     
  20. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    I have yet to finish mine.. If you have not started yet I would give Poise a call there kit seems to be less work then the tci or chassis engineering kits.. But I have not used them. Hope that helps.
     
  21. tattoos by brandon
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 541

    tattoos by brandon
    Member
    from salem ohio

    [​IMG] [​IMG] you can do just about anything with some patients this was my first lead project just patched what was there and went over it
     
    T-roaster likes this.
  22. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    Love it!! What kind of tail lights are those?
     
  23. tattoos by brandon
    Joined: Jun 28, 2011
    Posts: 541

    tattoos by brandon
    Member
    from salem ohio

    39 ford but I also like the round ford lights I considered using something like that but the wife likes the 39s so that's what she got
     
  24. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    Got to spend some time in the garage!! Got the dog house off and most of the prep to remove engine and trans!! Hope to get it out this weekend.. Going to start cleaning and install of the new to me steering box!! Also look over the front end!![​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]
     
  25. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    Following closely....I am gathering all the stuff to put a freshly built and "hopped up" 235 in my 52 four door. I will be doing the rear end swap as well. I have a line on a T5 transmission that I hope to have by the end of this week, and a S10 rear end before the end of the month.....looks like you have a really solid start!
     
  26. pharrand
    Joined: Sep 26, 2010
    Posts: 6

    pharrand
    Member
    from Michigan

  27. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic


    Thanks!! What reared kit are you going to use? Are you going to lower it?
     
  28. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

  29. RMONTY
    Joined: Jan 7, 2016
    Posts: 2,540

    RMONTY
    Member

    I'm going to let you do yours and see how you like it first! ........Seriously, I haven't decided which one to use yet. It's going to be a couple of months before I get to that point. I'm dumping a few bucks in the 235 and I need to get all that taken care of. Full rebuild on the block, head has already been done with hardened seats, new valves, guides, seals and springs for a cam that will not be stock. The only reason I am picking up the rear end and trans right now, is #1, I have been trying to find a T5 for a few months now, and found an excellent deal on one, and #2, the rear end I found is really cheap too. I felt like I needed to take advantage of the good deals.

    I replaced the kingpins in the front end when I bought the '52. It wasn't the easiest thing to get done. Lots of heating and PB Blaster soaking and BFH'ing. Those things were really stuck! I also went through the front brakes, but didn't bother with the rears as I had planned the rear end swap all along. To be really honest, I am a disc brake guy too, but after I got the front brakes fixed, the car really does stop really well., and decided to go with the original drum brakes. That might change once I get the 235 put in. As far as lowering it, yes it will be dropped some. I don't want to lay frame but I think these old cars look great lowered. The Sedan Delivery in my avatar was actually channeled over what I believe to be is a pro-street frame, homebuilt with some sort of GM "G" body front clip from what I have been told. That will be going on CL as soon as I decide what I am going to do with the Sedan Delivery.

    I originally bought the 4 door '52 for a parts car for the 1950 Sedan Delivery in my avatar, and it may still turn into a donor, but I am getting the mechanical parts, suspension, engine, open drive line, etc. in tip/top shape before deciding what to do with the body.
     
    Last edited: May 17, 2016
  30. manic
    Joined: Apr 2, 2016
    Posts: 20

    manic

    I'm torn between the chassis engineering low rider kit that lowers the rear by 4 inches and the tci kit lowers rear by 2 inches and use blocks to get the stance right. I don't want to lay frame either.. I also don't want to pay full price for dropped uprights Going to try the 3 inch drop springs and shock and see what it looks like..

    I have a built 350/350 sitting around before I got my 52 so I'm going that route.. Was very surprised at all the speed parts for the inline six..

    Did your king pins have a lot of play in them? Why did you replace them? Most of my steering components are worn out but my king pins seem to be ok?
     

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