New to a lot of Ford stuff, so I'm looking for some input please! My new to me '54 Ford truck with a '72 400 in it, has a Ford alternator and it is overcharging. It presently has NO voltage regulator. I will get some pictures soon, but did they make Ford alternators with internal regulators? I know from what I can see quickly, there are al least 2 wires going to the alternator right this minute. Thank you folks!
...but without that picture, it's hard to tell if it's one of those, or a later Ford alternator. Or something else.
Ford does make internally-regulated alternators, but they didn't appear until the early 80s and didn't become 'standard' until the late 80s. There's five basic Ford alternator versions in various amp ratings; the 1G (externally regulated and the 'common' style most recognize), the 2G (looks like the 1G but internally regulated) that has 'issues' and should be avoided, the 3G (internally regulated, different case), then the mod-motor-specific 4G and 6G. A pic of what you have will clear it up. I'll note that an externally-regulated Ford alternator will have three wires connected to it if it's wired for a indicator warning light (bat, stator, field) but only two (bat and field) if it's wired for an ammeter or voltmeter with no light. Ford alternators also tend to charge at a higher voltage compared to GM or Mopar alternators so if you're checking it against those specs it will be 'overcharging'...
Actually Fords first internally regulated alternator came out in 1969 in Thunderbird's with 429's and Lincoln's with 460's. They were used until 1971 and were in some Cougars and Cyclones. I doubt the OP has one of these alternators but they were used around the year of his motor.
Here is the back of my alternator. And like I said, there is currently no voltage regulator to be found. Was there a way to wire these units up without one? Obviously this one is an after-market unit.
You may want to convert to the 3G alternator. It is internally regulated and is a common swap in the Ford commu nity. A Google search should find you all the information needed for the conversion.
Field goes to the field terminal on the regulator, stator goes to the regulator to shut off the idiot light. Ignition feeds the regulator regulator feeds the field.
Yah I new we were going need to know that, but I work 3rd shift and didn't have the time to chase them down today. I'll do that tomorrow for sure. Any idea what the model number is of this thing?
It's a mid-70s or newer 1G version judging from the shape of the adjustment bolt tab. The amp rating should be stamped into the front case by the pivot if it hasn't been polished away. I suspect you'll find a regulator at the end of those wires, just not mounted in a 'usual' place. It's also probably an electronic regulator, the aftermarket ones aren't known for their quality.... It will also be helpful to know if you have an idiot light or not, as the wiring is significantly different with or without.
Whoa! Followed some of the wiring under gobs of electrical tape and the stater wire is connected to nothing. Looked all over for a voltage regulator and it is nonexistent! At this point, all bets are off as I'll be replacing the weird wiring harness!
Well, the stator wire not being hooked to anything still doesn't rule out a regulator; if the alternator is wired for non-idiot light use, no connection there is needed. So where does the field wire go?
You defiantly need a regulator. And you might want to think about the easy as pie plug in compatibility of an oem underhood wiring harness robbed from a 75-79 ford Truck. It is simple and will come with every plug/end needed to hook everything under the hood up. There are 2 basic underhood harnesses available, one without air and one with air. If you can, grab the complete underhood harness with ever component attached, things like the regulator, ignition box, etc can all come in handy. -Ford regulators are lifers, they are not known to fail even to this day.
I've only had a one-wire GM alt on one of my cars in the past and it worked splendidly. That is definitely an option at this point as well. As far as the FIELD wire goes, I don't know as I gave up on this mess. It's all cobbled together, but I will probably track it down soon!
Well yesterday I yanked out ALL the wiring to prep for replacing with a new wiring harness. I'll be using a Rebel harness as that's what I used on my '50 Coupe a couple months ago and really liked it's simplicity and quality. I believe at this moment to save money on a new alternator I'll stick with the one I got and wire in a voltage regulator. I know it was mentioned earlier, but it's the (white?) exciter wire that I'll need to understand a little more. Such as where does it go?
There's two ways to wire a external-regulated Ford alternator; with a idiot light and without one. I'll assume the latter (no light).... Connections are simple. From the alternator there's only two wires; a large-gage wire (at least #10) from the 'bat' terminal on the alternator to the battery side of the starter solenoid. If you're planning on installing an ammeter, it must be installed in-line in this wire. And a smaller wire (#14) from the 'Fld' terminal on the alternator to the regulator 'F' terminal. To complete the wiring to the regulator, you'll also need a #14 from either the 'Bat' terminal or the battery side of the solenoid to the 'A' terminal on the regulator. IF you run an ammeter, this MUST be connected BETWEEN the ammeter and the solenoid, NOT between the alternator and the ammeter. The closer to the solenoid you connect this, the better. Last, you need switched 12V power from the ignition switch to the 'S' terminal on the regulator (again, a #14 will be adequate). The 'I' terminal on the regulator is unused. One last thing; MAKE SURE both the alternator and regulator are well grounded and they have zero resistance (or as low as your meter will read) between them when checking case-to-case. Ford actually ran a ground wire between the alternator case and the regulator case to insure this, not a bad idea. A poor ground between them will cause regulator failure.
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