Technical *** MARCH 2016 BANGER MEET - MORE DAYLIGHT TO WORK ON BANGERS! ***

ok , most of you are smart racers . does anyone know how to figure actual compression for a 7-1 lion 3 ?
im getting 125# close throttle . is this close to expected ? .... thanks .. steve

 

Nice work, Bob!!
In my world, a picture is worth 10,000 words. Thanks for the effort.

 

Steve,
Cranking cylinder pressure has too many variables to make any kind of realization to C/R.
That being said, there is a tool used by race sanctioning bodies called a "Whistler".
This tool calculates the C/R based upon actual chamber volume of assembled engine.
When racing SCCA, one class had a C/R rule, it became beneficial to have one when building motors, it became even more important to have as the inspectors did not know how to use one correctly.

In reality, you have what you have, tuning this is more important than just the metal pieces.

John

 

I have a Lion III 6.5 to 1 CR and my cyl. compression is 97 psi on all cylinders.

 

thanks ron . that makes me feel good ..................... steve

 

does anyone know how to get in touch with the company selling riley OHV conversions ? thanks .. steve

 

I have both carbs off for cleaning and rebuild. While waiting on the rebuild parts to arrive, the intake and header are off for clean-up as well. Considering painting the engine while I have it down this far just to give it all a nice, clean, newish look.

 

Steve, are these what you are talking about??
http://www.secretsofspeed.com/riley-two-port-ohv.htm
If so, I believe they are no longer producing them, but contact Charlie Yapp below for more details

Scalded Dog Speed Parts, 3860 Cain Run Rd, Batavia, OH 45103 - phone 513-724-0700 - [email protected]

 

You may have to click the picture but in the lower left corner you can see the max speed I reached today in my bone stock Model A. Not sure if that great but I feel pretty good about it.

 

yes I was . out of production . day late dollar short .......................... thanks

 

Steve,
All is not lost, if you want a good 2 port head, look at the Miller-High speed. IMHO, this is the best compromise for a street rod. If you want to go faster, I have been around a couple of Dan Prices 4 port Cragar. Both of these are very well built with todays manufacturing and will not let you down. If you really want to get sick, I know of someone working on Gemsa 4 port patterns. Oh, and not to be slighted, Steve Serr is reworking the 4 port Cook/Eubanks. The models and design look really good from what I have seen. Not to worry, plenty of places to spend money.

John

 

thanks john ..............

 

Keep your eye out on various boards 'for sale' sections. I picked up my Miller/Cragar OHV with all the stuff you would want in an engine (all kinds of receipts from machine shops and parts stores) Diamond B block, pressurized, inserted, Clay Smith cam, '81's on a Zepher intake, Mallory.......in a car ready to just go drive for what I thought I'd have in an engine build. I know there was a Coupe on the MAFCA site that had a OHV conversion w Mitchell, OD that looked real nice and was not a budget buster. It is no longer listed but just a thought
Good luck on your quest

 

respectable and good looking at that
now work on the brakes

 

thanks winduptoy

 

My brake job is getting closer

 

Steve your a old racer. You know you just don't "bolt on a head" without loosing reliability and it takes a lot more to make a banger quick.
It's easier to buy something with a small block in it.
My approach has always been to keep a good stock engine and build a second high output motor

I'm working with old tiny motors. Trying to get 100 HP per ltr. The hop-up parts are rare so that takes time and money. Sometimes it takes years and always redesigned and custom made parts. Sometimes a supercharger. Forced induction caused a new set of problems. AND Then there's the problem that many of my old contacts and suppliers I trust are dead and gone.

It's all part of the game and interest. Please consider all the extra work and reduced reliability. Most of my life ago I made the choice to screw with the nature of things. Luck and some skill along with a lot of learning have all supported me.

Please think. Make a list. AND consider your options

My race cars always had a plaque on them. "MAY THE GODS FORGIVE ME FOR WHAT I'M ABOUT TOO DO"

 

Bluto,
Very well said, equilibrium comes to mind.
In all honesty, if racing is your intent with the Mod "A", the cost of the head is secondary to the cost of making it live for any amount of time.
I know Guys that have spent many years on design and testing DOHC parts to get 300hp.
I am not sure that they have been too successful yet. And they won't tell you either.

John

 

If this ain't the place to ask just let me know and I'll delete. I've looked it up but haven't really found a direct answer. If there is one. The question is my 1930 Model A leaks from the hole at the bottom of the bellhousing after I've been driving. It only leaks after I've driven it. When I stop there is a little thin stream of oil coming from the bellhousing. I have read to drop the pan and check a tube but am unsure. Your thoughts?

 

Does anyone have any photos of a DO Fronty with cupracks ? Looking to do an upgrade and would like to see what others have done.

 

Racing secrets are a problem if your racing. Because I don't race anymore I seem harmless that do. AND what they show me I learn from but honestly i don't tell others. Development costs all my racing friends a lot of money.

I have some secrets but more about chassis than engines. Getting your shit box to hook-up means the HP has a chance push the car around

Also learned to you must replace your ego with a good driver. Hardest nut to adjust is the one behind the wheel

Street engines are just race motors with less cam and compression.

And God don't try to go fast on babbit.

You need really good tools to blueprint. You must measure and consider everything. I have several tool boxes and use everything. There are old tools that do jobs new ones don't. I have a lifetime of collecting tools ...... don't use them as much as the modern one's but some of the old crap is worth keeping around

Here in Europe people think close enough is good enough for old cars. It just isn't.

 

ok , my car is a daily driver . just got back from 100 mi outing with the A club . no trouble . my car is pretty dependable . went to boise (1500 mi) and loved it . I do like a little power tho .

attn: stock car fans .

fireball Roberts car is on ebay . great history there ................

 

The most common cause for rear main leak is the drain tube missing or loose
the drain tube blocked or restricted
excess rear main clearance (worn)
excess thrust (end play)
there are a few other things that can leak oil such as cam and bolts
drop the pan and check the basics

 

Gents, Tod Buttermore is looking to make some Model A Aluminum blocks in the near future. He is looking for people who may be interested in one over on the FordBarn. See link below if you are interested.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=191926

 

Winfield updraft carb
has anyone used one of these ? if so , pros/cons ........ thanks .. steve

 

Not to hijack the question, but is there anywhere with a decent discussion on the merits across the Carb Spectrum. Zenith, Simmons & winfield updraft and Winfield, Stromberg and Holly downdraft? My impression if half the cars out there running banger flatheads are over carbed?

 

I understand that the Winfield updraft is much better than any stock carb .
I run a weber & it is great . not rich at all .
but some do & some dont

 

What oil pressure are you guys running in your modified engines? I run a high volume pump on a drilled crank engine with a Rutherford overhead unfortunately by mistake we turned the pressure up a bit high and appear to have damaged the rear main seal.

 

It's pretty hard to blow a seal unless you bust the spring or seal material. It is possible to force the oil out around the OD of a seal. Try turning the pressure back

Have you checked the crank for runout?

 

I had the H/H one piece rear main & it leaked like no seal at all ( no spring ) . running mod V8 pump @ 25-28# , no leaks on cork seal .