Projects Deuce firewall dilema

Check with PARR Automotive in Okie City, OK for part # ZIP3N1 and the inline GM-6 water pump part # TUF1529A. 800-654-6779
It is in a Model A but it moves the fan up and lets you place the motor a little lower.
Don't cut the primo stock firewall. You will do the right thing.
Larry

 

There are NAPA stores all over BC, check your phone book.

 

You know what John Wayne says: "A Man Should Do What He Thinks Best"

 

Ditto! you can se a stock firewall. Do as krylon said. I use a raised water pump with chev. 6 cyl water pump and mechanical fan. Car will not over heat EVER.

 

The bottom flange on my exhaust manifolds looks to be about the same distance from the top of the frame rail as yours, where is your oil pan clearance at? Mine is close to 4-5". I did have to take about 3/4" out of the bottom of the firewall, for a 700r GM auto.

 

It is a tight fit, but in about the same amount of time it takes to read this thread, you could be done cutting and rewelding the engine mounts.

 

That is how I build them as well. I think it is utterly stupid how they design 32 frames with the engine set back as there is plenty of room for a small block with a mechanical fan. I put a small block in a model A pickup and all I had to do is fill the wiring hole and clearance the cove with a hammer to fit the distributer. Placed properly I was able to use zips high rise water pump and mechanical fan. I say move the mounts now for more enjoyable leg room and don't cut the fire wall. Shame on SoCal and anyone else for building 32 frame's that required firewall cutting. I think they do it so you have to buy more parts from them ie firewall to finish your build.

 

I have a extra pulley you can have ,do you need the crank pulley as well.
It's funny we don't want to cut the firewall but we would chop a top in a heartbeat ha ha ha

I

 

Oil pan clearance on mine is 3 3/4 " but the lowest point is my front splash pan with only 3 1/4" clearance ......

 

The instructions that come with the Zipps adaptor list the GM pulley numbers. I found them on ebay and an internet search of those numbers will also locate them.

 

I looked when I read your post and found them too. $130 for the crank pulley is as cheap as I can find!! Crazy

 

What is the crank pulley part #? Seems like I hoarded some of them for future build. I can check.

 

3850838....it's 7.25". I got this number from an old hamb thread discussing this.

 

Is it a short pump double pulley? I recently bought a set of double belt pulleys for a SBC short pump from a local shop. They were Mr Gasket or similar. The bottom pulley is 7-1/4" diameter, the top is about 6-1/2".

I looked at the Zips instructions too and they don't tell the application only GM part numbers. My faulty memory tells me that Zips touted common parts availability when they introduced the deal. I installed one for a pal years ago and it seems like they were common short pump SBC pulleys. But my memory does tend to be off once in awhile.

 

Check Ebay there is one for 29.99 and 10.00 shipping. Along with all of the overpriced ones.

 

Without question or hesitation, cut off and move the engine and transmission mounts.

 

The pulleys listed on Zip's instructions are double groove, with 7" crank & 6" pump pulleys. Wonder if when not running A/C if the regular single groove pulleys that don't overdrive the pump would function properly.

 

I have wondered the same thing as I won't be running AC in my roadster. But I don't know the pulley numbers.

 

We do indeed have NAPA stores in BC. Ask URLs or google locations.

 

Would these work?

 

Take Andy's advice. The waterpump riser allows enough room for everything plus a small shroud, necessary in Texas, and you save some precious Henry sheet metal. AND, you will retain the original footroom. I voted to buy a junked panel and build it to your specs, but the Zipp alternative wasn't on the table. Zipp it, Bud. You won't be sorry.

 

You can purchase the Zip's riser AND 6 cylinder water pump from Speedway.

 

Does anyone know if these pulleys would work? I am not running AC as it's a roadster, so I really only need a single groove pulley. The part numbers that Zips provides are for double groove pulleys. I think the single groove pulley are smaller in depth which would help

 

I started with the recommended pulleys and later thought I'd clean it up by running a single groove...then I started seeing the temp creep up at idle. If I remember correctly, the doubles as a set are 10 percent overdrive, the singles are direct. I am actually running a double top pulley that has an even smaller water pump pulley, I think it's about 5.5". It ends up overdriving the water pump 23 percent and was the ticket to keeping a problem child engine cool in the PHX 115 degree days with no fan shroud. I've done a lot of playing and mix and matching of pulleys and have found the smaller the better on the water pump. I believe the weird little pulley that cured my ills is a 67? Chevelle with a/c, it's the only sbc pulley I've seen with 2 different sized pulleys in one.

 

Duecedreamer where are u in BC, any Lordco should have lots of choice for pulleys that u can try. They carry trans dapt that had tons of choice in pulleys and they're cheap.

 

I'm in the lower mainland. I tried Lordco...I even gave the guy a year, make and model of vehicle. He looked at me like I was speaking French. Personally, I can't stand Lordco. I went there for a fuel pump for my engine. Told him '62 283 SBC. They couldn't find one other than an Edelbrock or Holley. Very frustrating.

I ended up getting pulleys from Speedway when I ordered the Zips waterpump riser so I didn't have to pay shipping. With money difference, they cost me $30 each and they're chrome. So far I've installed them and set the motor 1/4" from the firewall to the rear of the passenger side head. Everything is lining up on the front end of the motor and I'm using a 17" stainless steel flex fan which is now positioned right in the middle of thr radiator. My issue now is the fan hits the alternator pulley bolt. So I need to space the fan out 1/4". Ill be left with 1.5-2" of space at the top and about 5/8" at the bottom between the fan and the radiator.

I ended up just having to trim the bottom edge of the firewall over the bellhousing. From the engine side, you can't see it at all and I didn't lose any foot room inside. I'm ok with it. When the transmission tunnel and floor are made, I'll get that flange changed and put back on only higher. I'll post up a pic when I get a chance.

 

You have a good point. Ill remember this if I have cooling problems. I think right now both upper and lower pulleys are the same diameter.

Does anyone know where to get the anti-cavitation plate for the rear of the water pump? Speedway doesn't have them and I didn't want to pay 3x the price for a Flow Cooler pump.

 

They used that same water (6 Cyl) pump on Chevy II's 153's as well since it was actually a cut down 6.
they're available at Auto Zone.
I bought a gennie firewall for my 32 Roadster a few years back, put a chevy with the stock 283 water pump and small distrib w/electronics, no cutting necessary.

 

Glad it worked out for u. I'm in the interior and have dealt with one of the big lordcos here for years. I know most of the staff really well and they treat me great, give me jobber rates on everything I buy and have given me several freebies as well. It's all about the individual staff, not the chain necessarily but I get where you're coming from. Would love to see some pics for sure. I'm dealing with all the same mock up stuff right now on my A build. SBC with a 4L80. Firewall is perfect so will be just doing a little snip at the bottom to clear the hump. My motor mount aren't on the frame yet so I have room to play. I'm using a hurst front motor mount. Here's a few pics of the mock up. Locating the steering box as well.

 

What transmission did you use?