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35-36 Ford rear wishbones...strengthened, drilled and polished!

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by 117harv, Mar 27, 2012.

  1. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  2. brigrat
    Joined: Nov 9, 2007
    Posts: 5,620

    brigrat
    Member
    from Wa.St.

    God your sick, but in a good way!
     
    RED-EYE-KUSTOMS and 117harv like this.
  3. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    The tube is done and back in the HAMBers hands, ready to go under a cool traditional hot rod.

    120.JPG 121.JPG 155.JPG 154.JPG 123.JPG
     
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  4. Superior work again! Very impressive. Wondered if you could share your source for all your finishing supplies. Not many vendors around these parts that have reasonable prices and a decent array of products. Usually have to mail order and then often surprised by the poor quality of the pieces.
     
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  5. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    These were sent from another member for some clean up. After blasting the scars from use are clearly evident. There is a large dent close to one end, and some rub marks, can't find a single tube to replace it, as all my cores are complete and don't want to part them out. Will see what happens when I try and repair it, it still may need replacing. They also have some gouges from years of floor jacks as well as almost worn through shackle mounts, but they will be removed. More in a few days.

    ^^^ vtwhead I get my abrasives from my local welding supply and a local tool supply.
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2015
    woodz likes this.
  6. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  7. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    After closer examination, I noticed that one of the flanges was bent and getting it straight so it would seal again was an exercise in futility. I checked some local resources for bells but all I could find were late ones, so I pulled an early A rear from my private stash that I was saving...oh well, they're going to a good home. :)

    Typical crusty vintage car parts, old grease and spiders, bells came off with no problems. I took them to a local machine shop with a wash cabinet, a half hour and they were nice and clean. While there I measured the bearing area, one measurement vertical as the bearing rides and one from the side, both bells were in good shape.

    Pics next post.
     
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  8. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  9. Blue One
    Joined: Feb 6, 2010
    Posts: 11,462

    Blue One
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Alberta

    I recently went to my own local welding supply and bought a bunch of those small diameter flap wheels and other abrasives.
    I was amazed at how expensive the really good quality ones are. They last longer than some of the really cheap Chinese or Taiwanese stuff, but wow, it's easy to walk out a couple hundred dollars lighter.
     
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  10. Well done keep the updates coming
     
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  11. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,983

    97
    Member

    Look for , Standard Abrasives Inc has been around since the 50s . Now part of 3M, they sell kits for different applications, which work out a lot cheaper than going to a tool supply and buying one at a time. I used to be able to buy direct but something has changed there. Summit sells their porting kit for under 90 bucks, it's over 110 on Amazon and way more from the tool guys that I tried.
    There is also Superior Abrasives and Performance abrasives kits at Summit for under $40.00 which seem to have good reviews.
     
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  12. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  13. p__moore
    Joined: May 14, 2015
    Posts: 126

    p__moore
    Member

    Great work
     
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  14. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    Here they are, freshly blasted, you can see all the nicks and gouges along the tube and on the bell from rocks thrown up by the front tires over the years, both look about the same. The spring perches were cut off long ago, I would have removed them if they hadn't as the tubes will have 35-36 bone mounts welded on. I told the blaster not to blast the inner flange/bearing area, I didn't want the mating surface compromised.
     
    Last edited: Jan 22, 2016
  15. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  16. '52 F-3
    Joined: Sep 30, 2007
    Posts: 913

    '52 F-3
    Member

    amazing stuff ..... very inspiring!
     
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  17. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    I got most of the gouges sanded out, there may be a few spots that will need filling after the next grit. I will be leaving the welds, I don't want to try and remove them as the tube would warp from welding. I will clean them up and knock the rough points down, then let the polishing compound do the rest. The area around the bolt holes that were machined will be left, some are mostly gone and what will remain will be covered by washers.

    It's hard to photograph, but where the tube meets the bell it is wavy and not a perfectly smooth transition, I only mention this as it will be apparent after they are chromed.

    Pics next
     
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  18. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  19. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    Some more progress shots, the ends will take some time, lots of low areas, some filling maybe?. The square area where the spring perch was will be smoothed and rounded, no reason to remove it. Again, after doing so much polishing I can tell when a low spot or imperfection just won't sand out, some very small imperfections/scars will need filling.
     
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  20. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  21. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    The compound curve of the bell is very hard to sand, no matter what tools or abrasives I used, it left an uneven surface. I did what I could and then went up to a local friends well equipped shop to use his lathe. It looks like it's really spinning but was just doing 70 RPM. Started with 50 grit and then finished up with 180 emery cloth. Took awhile get the surface where I wanted it, note raw finger tips, but coming along nicely... :)

    Pics next
     
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  22. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  23. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

    I used graduating grits of sand paper and wet sanded all until my fingers were raw. I then went over them with a DA sander and 400 grit. The shot of them together is before polishing, and one shot polishing. Final pics in a day or so.
     
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  24. 117harv
    Joined: Nov 12, 2009
    Posts: 6,589

    117harv
    Member

  25. rod1
    Joined: Jan 18, 2009
    Posts: 1,324

    rod1
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You are a Mad man .In a Good way.
     
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  26. Real32
    Joined: Dec 14, 2007
    Posts: 144

    Real32
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Beautiful work Harv!!!
     
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  27. deuce1932
    Joined: Jul 24, 2006
    Posts: 126

    deuce1932
    Member
    from Australia

    O.C.D. ?
    great work...:cool:
     
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  28. Cool.
    Al.
     
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  29. Atwater Mike
    Joined: May 31, 2002
    Posts: 11,624

    Atwater Mike
    Member

    I did some polishing for a local plater when 16. He agreed to chrome all the parts for my '32 if I polished them (his place, my time, I paid for abrasives)
    I must have been more ambitious, (plus my parts were from local sources, Santa Clara valley; read: Little rust! Much still had original Ford black paint on it in 1955!)

    Watching your meticulous grinding, shaping, polishing is now...exhausting!
    The addition of the strap to get the peak had me going, I wondered why the extra thickness on the upper side!
    Then we found out...
     
    117harv likes this.

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