Hot Rods Right stuff vs. Rtv gasket makers.

Never used "the Right Stuff", but used RTV for many years....how much different can it be???? I never had any problems with RTV...in fact, before they ever started packaging it, for use on automobiles, we used to use bathtub caulk, and IT worked good, too!

 

It is the 'Right Stuff'.... Been one of the 'go to' sealers on my vintage Japanese motorcycles for years. Another great choice is 'Yamabond', available from your local Yamaha dealer (about $10 per tube). The latter is great on machined surfaces; it doesn't leave a squeezed-out 'string' like most sealers, it 'flows' onto the adjoining edges. Cleans off easily too. I haven't bought anything except head, oil filter, and exhaust gaskets for the bikes for years....

 

I just picked up a tube at auto zone for $14 and some change. It says it does 8-10 4 cyl. valve cover gaskets. Advanced also has it as well as napa

 

All of these years I never really knew what RTV stood for. I just grabbed the tube and didn't give it much thought until I read an article and it said it stood for Room Temperature Vulcanization. I'm sure that I'm probably the last person on the planet to find this out.

 

Not the last...that would be me haha

 

Here you go. This is for those who haven't seen the (right) stuff yet

 

I couldn't enlarge the instruction label so I'll ask..Should the right stuff be applied to one surface and let sit few min or assemble right away? Referring to engine fore and aft china walls specifically but all uses in general..

 

One advantage of The Right Stuff is that it can be driven right after application where as RTV has to set up to work properly. I put in on the 8" rear in place of the cheap gasket and no leaks.

 

I found that once it's on you have about 1 min. before it starts to tack up. Inevitably, every time I use it and I'm spreading the bead out, I pull some off the surface because it's already started curing. It's actually the only downside to this stuff. You'd better get your cover right on the first time cause if you try and adjust it it pulls off. Once it's on, forget it...no more leaks. I literally just put some on my CJ7s timing cover in place of a gasket and started it right up with not a leak in sight

 

I'll agree it's good stuff as far as sealing goes, but the "difficult" to remove is a gross understatement! That shit is like concrete once it cures!
For sealing thick heavy cast iron or such to another thick and heavy piece, it's fine.
But I'd hate like hell to try to get off the average valve cover or similar piece after it cures. I have a friend who builds engines for door slammers that run huge doses of nitrous oxide and these engines need periodic teardown and inspection to avoid grenading.
He has quit using Right Stuff because there have been times when he really had to struggle to get parts off without damaging them.
Back in the 50s I knew a mechanic/garage owner who wouldn't allow any kind of gasket sealer in his shop because he hated the clean up the next time that part had to be removed. And in the old days of solid lifter 6 cyl. Chevys and the like where valve covers had to come off much more often, it was a PITA.

 

I am going to try it on my tranny pan. Every type gasket I have used always has a small drop-drip start somewhere after a while.

 

Yeah once it's on and fully cures, forget it. Whatever you sealed up isn't coming back off without a fight. I only use it on stuff that I only have to get into once every 50,000 mi. or so like different covers, timing covers, oil pans...stuff like that. I don't use anything but a cork gasket for valve covers for that reason alone.

 

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Back in the old days we used shellac. It is the same thing that you can buy at Home Depot or such. We would let it evaporate a bit so that it was thicker. Coat one surface and add the gasket then give the other side a coat. You must give it time to gas off and harden as it has alcohol as a solvent. When you separate the parts you will find them easy to clean with alcohol. Might prove to be too traditional!

 

Indian Head Gasket Shellac..Works as a contact cement, great for a little spot here and there to help hold a rubber gasket in place, forgot all about it....

 

Indian Head, yes there was an image of an Indian head on the bottle.
I would never use it for anything exposed to gasoline because of the newfangled alcohol blends.
When working with auto transmissions never use RTV as it will be softened by the ATF and any "squeeze out" will be found in the internals.
It is better to straighten the pan properly and use a proper gasket, dry, as the factory did. Do not over torque and you'll be good.

 

I also agree on The Right Stuff. Works great!

 

Right Stuff! ITS THE RIGHT STUFF!

 

If you use right stuff on an automatic tranny pan,should you just use it,or it and a gasket? what size bead do you use? do you put a bead around the bolt holes,or just around the outside of the pan?

 

Just the sealant. Put the small bead on, spread it with your finger over the complete mating surface and bolt that bad boy on. Leak free every time.

 

THE RIGHT STUFF on my rebuilt ford FE 390in 2007,NO LEAKS YET!

 

I used it on the two diff. covers from my old cherokee, the water pump and thermostat housing from my old '54, the thermostat housing on my '51 and the water pump and thermostat housing on my CJ7 motor I swapped in and not a drop leaked from any of them

 

We have even forgotten a gasket and it still did a great job.

Good stuff.

Don[/QUOTE]

Not good advertising for your shop!

 

When I use it I don't even use a gasket

 

I just tried it on the ends of my Dart intake. Read the instructions for once.... said you have got 5 minutes before it starts to set up and things have got to be clean. Put a couple of 3/8" studs in one head so I could locate it fast. Got everything ready to go, put down 2 good beads and laid my intake down.

Worked out well. The only thing I'll add is to mask off anywhere you don't want the stuff. It definitely leaves a signature.

 

I've always used either Permatex Ultra Blue or Ultra Grey. Never tried the "right stuff" but might have to, although it it's as tough to remove as mentioned above I may stick with the Ultra series of sealants.

 

Love the Right Stuff,hate the aerosol can. Caulking gun tube and stick it in the fridge when you're done. When using on gaskets the thinnest smear you can make works great. The only RTV I use anymore is the metallic orange high heat for header gaskets.

 

I use Permatex Ultra Black, and have had good results with it

 

Nope there are still more of us living in the dark ages. I've never heard of RIGHT STUFF till now. Sounds like it could be the right stuff until time to tear down. But if it's done right it should last 150,000 or 50 years.

 

I like the aerosol can, but buy the smallest size possible and line up everything you want to use it on. It doesn't work that well 2 weeks after its first use.