Technical Ford 302 87te roller motor, going back to flat tappet

hi, ive got a ford 302 short block out of a 80's truck. engine number 87te or e7te, hard to read casting. it is a roller motor with roller lifters/cam/spider plate/dog bones. what i want to do is convert back to a flat tappet setup. what is the steps to do this properly? i have read that all will work fine if i just put my flat cam/lifters in, plug the holes in the block where the spider bracket had held down the roller lifters, and get longer pushrods? what length pushrods (the size i would normally use with a flat tappet setup)? i also read that oil passages on the lifters need to be taken into consideration because of the taller lifter bores on the roller block. what type/size/length lifter do i need in order to ensure that i dont run into any oiling problems there? can you give any insight or info on how to get my flat tappet equipment back in this roller motor?

also i wanted to ask since i am writing this. i have my eyes set on a big mutha thumpr series camshafts. it is part# 31-603-5 and grind# 295TH7. will this cam work with my 302? The pistons are aftermarket and fly cut for more clearance, part# h273cp. aluminum heads will be properly springed and setup for it as well. i just want to make sure i wont have any piston to valve clearance issues. whats the max lift cam i can run with this block i have?

any help would be greatly appreciated on this. thanks so much.

-Ryan

 

and the reason for this is? what is motor going in?

 

Why would you want to remove a roller and go flat tappet? That's a backwards step in terms of performance unless all you're after is the lumpy idle.

As far as converting, you'll probably need to change the distributor gear and you'll need longer pushrods. How long will depend on the type rockers you're using. Piston to valve clearance? Ask the cam manufacturer, and if it's close you'll need to measure it....

 

Your right. Iam after the lumpy idle. I know the differences i just want to go flat tappet. Can this be done? How about the lifters oil holes and the galleys in the motor? Taller lifter bores and they wont line up. Is there a special lifter or what

 

Ford used the roller blocks for flat tappet motors in some OEM applications and as far as I know you simply use the 'standard' flat tappet stuff....

 

Its goin in a 64 falcon. Anymore insight? Only thing im concerned with at this point are the bosses the lifters go in.

 

Can't get the Thumpers in roller? I haven't looked but got to be out there..

 

You better have the piston-to-valve clearance measured before you do anything, and then the valve spring pressure must be measured on the seat and at open of what the lift will be, you could be into valve spring bind.
You will need .150" longer pushrods, and adjustable rocker arms, and the spring seats will have to be machined larger to accept the appropriate valve springs to control the camshaft.

Comp makes the Thumper Camshafts for the Ford 302 Roller Cam Engines http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1528&sb=2

 

I appreciate your time and response. Do u have any info on the tappet lifters in the bosses not drawing oil because the bosses are taller on the rollers. Hole on the side of the lifter is what iam talking about. Needs to line up with the galley in the block to get oiled

 

Put a E303 cam in it and enjoy the ride.

 

Pick up the phone and call Mark @ Panhandle Performance, he will set you straight.
Here: http://panhandleperformance.com/

 

I'm trying to not knock your ambition, but going away from roller if the block is already designed for it is the wrong way to go. The benefits far outweigh any change back in tech. You can definitely get the sound you want with a roller cam, even more so. The lumpy idle is a result of degrees of valve overlap and if you can't buy it off the shelf, I am sure someone out there will custom grind one for you. As a reference, the cam you selected is 107 degrees lobe separation and less lopey cams run around 110 degrees.

Also, this is probably going to get flagged soon so... good luck!

 

I wouldn't do it. Too many roller benefits.

 

I have a 306 roller motor with the "as mentioned" E303 cam and it idled and shook the windows. I also have a GT40P motor with a TFS stage II cam in it and that rattles about everything in the car at idle.

 

so what was the result of what was needed?

 

OP was here for 24 hours, 5 years ago.
Interestingly, you only joined today. Spooky.

 

Maybe someone he knew finally talked him out of it. Can I ask why you’d want to go from a roller to a flat tapper cam?

 

NO!

 

It wouldn't take much for me to not use a roller cam but I don't think I would post it here. My Fairlane has a roller block with a solid flat tappet cam.

 

This is correct ^^^^ Just use stock length pushrods the roller block has the same deck height.

I personally would not convert back, the hot setup for the really serious go fast junkies has been roller lifters for decades (like late 40s and '50s for cars). Hot roller cams cost no more than hot flat tappet cams.

 

Not true

 

Maybe if you pay retail. LOL

I don't waste money when I am building and my research has been that I can get just as much cam in a roller profile as I can in a flat tappet for the same money (or within a buck or two). The cost is in the lifters and/or the conversion.

 

Don’t do it. E303 is good or the smaller B303. Why go backwards? We are trying to talk some sense into you.

CN

 

Calm down guys. The OP never came back after his post 5 years ago. He is currently on the IPhone forum asking about converting it to rotary dial.

 

That is pretty sad, I did not look at the date. What a maroon.

CN

 

I'm guilty of typing a very detailed response only to discover that the question was asked and answered 15 years ago. Someone with like 3 posts usually hijacks the thread with a question thus bringing it back to the top.

A response to these is like...
Whatever you do General, make sure they take Little Round Top.