Projects 1952 Buick "Pearl" a factory custom. My first chop

Thanks!

 

Yep same bolt pattern. I used one from a 72 chevy c10. It is a little wide so I'm running 15x6 wheels with a 3 1/2 backspacing. I have about a fingers gap on each side and I have never had a rubbing issue with tens of thousands of miles. I've read that if I went with a 71 or prior rear it is a little narrower but you will need to verify.

I am running a Gambino 4 link in the rear with bags. The bags were necessary in order to get the rear end high enough to change a tire on the side of the road. My 54 has half skirts built into it.

I'm also running Firestone 6.70 15 tires because they are skinny. I don't know if a wider tire would fit.

 

Did you notch your car also ? I'm in the middle of doing my rear on my 52 Buick

 

I did not. I just trimmed down the bump stops. My car does't "lay frame" but is plenty low. I wanted to still be able to drive it with a bag failure.

 

Good thread. I like following along

 

I have a 51 Buick, how much modification did you g
Have to do to install air ride not the rear

 

The 1961 and up Buick rear end is an open drive style and will bolt into most early housings. I used a 1962 complete rear end under my 1955 Special and it was only an inch wider on each side but there was still plenty of room to the fender. The best thing I did on the rear was to install an Art Morrison triangulated 4 link as it really helped the handling.

 

So I could use an early 60's third member in my 52 axle?

 

I got new bushing's to make motor mounts today because mine are shot and the factory design isn't that great, in my eyes. I accidentally ordered them a 1/4" to big so after a little work chucked up in my redneck lathe (drill press) I got them turned to 1.75"

I will mount it something like this I haven't figured out an exact plan yet.
I got my Bendestons adaptor on my "mock up motor" then I set the Trans behind it just to see where I'll need to make the transmission mounts. Then I took the Trans back out and ran a center line down the frame so I know the motor is nice and straight.


On another note I have my motor and all the parts for it back from the machine shop now and I'm going to assemble it. Does anybody know of a good Buick shop manual for reassembling this? I have the regular shop manual but it kinda sucks..

 

I only have the"1951 shop manual" doesnt cover th350s though. Haha

 

ha, there's no manual for Kustom. I just have the 52 manual. Team Buick has some manuals and good reference.
http://www.teambuick.com/reference/index.php

 

Meant the motor not the Trans.. I have the shop manual to but I wish they explained things and gave a little more info in it.

 

Lots of good info thank u sir!

 

Just playing with you.

Factory shop manuals are about as good as it gets.

There are some fisher body manuals out there too.

Referencing other year manuals may give some details
Not covered in yours. But also alot of overlapping info.
We can help you here. Also as LONG said, team buick
Has a lot if info there.

Btw ive been fixing cars for 30 years professionally
And stiill read the manuals over and over. Always learning.
And then if course there are things you just cant find in books.

 

Pm sent

 

Just found your build. I love it dude. I'll be watching every step on the chop your doing.

 

I just found your thread. I've put you in my "watch list". I love the old Buicks. Nice project you got going here. I did a major upgrade to our 49 Super a few years back that turned out very successfully. I like and approve of most all you are doing for what that's worth, especially your keeping the S8. The chop you are doing is surely a difficult one and the results are looking very good. I'm also pleased with your decision to retain the three window back glass. I have always preferred any of the GM cars that had three piece rear windows.
However, I would like to make some comments first about changing the motor mounts. If you get a pair of factory mounts in good conditon, I don't think you can improve on them.They support and cradle the engine very well and a good job of absorbing the engines torque and vibration. Just one less thing to change. Concentrate on the tailshaft mount instead and you won't have to be concerned with up-down fore-aft of the engine location. If you go to my profile/albums, I have posted pictures of our Buick, it's engine and trans crossmember mods. Also in my album is a pic of our driver side motor mount mod that is required if one wants to use compound exhaust or headers. While you are planning for a th400, I used a700R4 which fit just fine behind the Bendtsen adapter and I can highly recommend it. Our Super can hit 100mph and never spin over 3k rpm. We run in the fast lane @ around 2300 rpm. Smooth and quiet except for the exhaust notes out the back.
If you peruse those pictures, You will notice the compound carb and exhaust setup. It is a bolt-on from the '41 Specials and are about as good as you can do to improve the S8's breathing without going exotic. Most spectators think its original and stock. If you want to be on the road by your wedding, you have more to do than building headers. Also the cast manifolds are much quieter and trouble free than tin headers.
The other major point I would like to make regards your rear suspension. I agree with the advice for a four link in the rear, however, the person advising you is not paying for the Art Morrison kit, You will. I found an economical alternative by using the entire suspension from a '90 Chevy Caprice. It is a triangulated four link setup that will slip right in-between your frame rails with trimming of the mounting pads and upper link crossmember. Even the shocks are incorporated and the "E" brake lines from the Chevy will link up to your existing "E" brake cable with little trouble. The track width and bolt pattern are the same as your Buick's and will retain that quality Buick ride yet will handle like a modern car. GM incorporated a swaybar into the housing that is appropriately sized for car in the weight class of a Buick and Chevy so there is no experimenting to do there. To me another plus to the Chevy suspension is the incorporation of rubber bushings in all the linkage to absorb any of the vibration and shock from the road surface. Metal to metal or urethane joint may good for competition but are somewhat harsh for a comfortable road machine. The rearend ratio will be either 3.08 or 3.42 which would be a way better gear for today's freeways. I payed $200 at the junkyard for the entire setup, had it installed in two days and by the way the upper end of the springs fit into the original spring pockets. All that was left was to measure and order a driveshaft. I was able to accomplish this swap with the "body on". Unfortunately, I haven't taken pics of that part of the car yet, which is in storage for the winter now, but I need to do that because these old Buick's rearend swaps are becoming so commonplace.
I hope my comments are well taken and will be of some benefit to your project.
Best regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.

 

Thanks!!

 

Wow tons of great info!!! I will check out your photo album thanks for all the great advice! I guess I know which axle I need to find now!

 

Looking great! Following along...

 

Great to know about the 90 Caprice rear end. That sounds like something I will check out on my next Buick project. That's the best part about this forum, exchanging information with others who have often found a better way than what you thought of. Wish I had read about that years ago before I did mine.

 

I wanted to ask you what did you do about reattaching the inner pillar to the body?

 

The axle needed up being to wide for my car as its a (special) not a super.

 

If you go back in the build u will see I made tabs to go inside the pillars and then plug welded them on top and bottom sides

 

Got my block nice and clean along with the head. I also got all the threads chased then painted everything. Laid out nicely. I was shooting for more of a gold and it came out a little browner than I wanted but I still like it. Now it's time to start getting the motor together. I'm still in the air on which Trans I want to run but I'm now leaning towards a 700r4.

I also started shaving my valve cover.
I drilled out the spot welds on the filter bracket. Then removed it then welded and sanded.

 

nice work. i run a 700r4 in my daily driver 51 buick with straight 8

 

I love your Buick man the chop turned out killer!!

What gear ratio so you have in your axle? I was toying with the idea of running an 6L80 or 6L90 to get the double over drive and run a real low gear in the axle, but I decided I wouldn't gain much so I'm sticking with the 700r as I wanna drive the wheels off this baby.

 

looks good. I did the same with the rocker cover and removing the air cleaner mount.

 

They look so much cleaner shaved!

 

thank you that was first time chopping a car for me it was exciting.

running 3.41 gears. these big sleds are more for cruising in my opinion and the 700 provides plenty of cruising power. first gear can get you off the line if you step on it (i have cherped second gear!) and when OD kicks and converter locks i think i cruise 75mph under 2k rpm what more do you want from a 50s Buick? keep building ill keep watching