I'm returning to the HAMB after a long absence and like the changes I see. Long story short, has anyone installed a hydroboost braking system on a 57 T-Bird with out relocating the battery? I have disk brakes with the Midland booster bypassed and my manual brakes work well for the past 10 years or so, but the pedal effort is a bit high. The Midland remote booster needs a major rebuild (including sleeving the bore) and I am looking for options. The electric boosters look expensive and I can't quite wrap my head around the way they operate. Any other options for improving my brakes or adding power assist without relocating the battery will be appreciated. Thanks in advance. J
Third paragraph..Doesn't say what he has for a MC though..I don't know where the T bird battery is either..
Guess I should re-read 3 or 4 times. Thanks Seb. I think the OP will need to relocate the battery with hydroboost. The units I have seen stick out quite a ways from the firewall plus you have the pressure and return hoses to deal with. Then there is the cost. When I was considering hydroboost in my 55 sedan about 10 years ago, the swap would have cost nearly a grand. I think you can get a reman Midland unit for about half that on an exchange basis.
Disk brake conversion done many years ago. Manual disk brakes work well Original 57 Midland booster is in stock position on inner fender and bypassed. Dual master came in a kit from CASCO and I think is Mustang. Outlets are toward the driver's fender but there is very little room for a larger master cylinder toward the battery heat shield or toward the rocker cover. Very tight space.
I took apart my Midland unit today and the bore is pitted and a rebuilder will probably refuse it as a core. I am trying to find a local machine shop to sleeve it and then may have to consider rebuilding it. Electric master and booster units are expensive too at $1000 or more. As of now I am looking for options to get a better booster without relocating the battery.
I don't think [pretty sure] you can use a Midland with a dual MC, or you would need two as you now have two circuts....Call ECI...http://www.ecihotrodbrakes.com/contact.html ..Maybe a peddle ratio change would give you enough, raise the pin on the brake peddle about 1/2" or change MC to smaller bore but you would have to know what you have now [probably 1"] and reduce by 1/16 to 1/8....Either way you will end up having more pedal travel...Apple hydraulics in NY can sleeve the Midland for any one that needs that done..
Check out mustang cobra, or large GM trucks for donor hydro boost units if you're into fabbing one instead of a kit. Here's an install with pics on an OT ride, but it gives some detail on what you're in for if you choose to adapt one. http://www.nastyz28.com/forum/showthread.php?t=215789 Moderators, if this link or post is too far out of bounds, please delete, just using as a reference.
I put a hydroboost on my 55 bird some years ago. Clears everything. The guy who sold it to me did a custom spacer to mount a common mc. Send me a PM, I'll tell the rest. Not traditional.
Thanks everyone for the comments and links! I knew I could find help on the HAMB. SF is correct about using the original Midland unit for this application as it will now only boost the front disk brakes. Rears will remain manual as original equipment. Not the best set up, but better than original drums all around. My system works well, but I would like to improve it as I am driving it more since moving to FL and traffic is faster and heavier. I only have 2.5" from the center of the master to the battery's heat shield and 2.75" to the rocker cover. Tight space L to R, and about 3" down to the headers. I think length would be OK. Miker - will send a PM with an e-mail. Very interested in seeing your solution.
I have a source for remote dual circuit 5-1/2" remote mount hydro-vac units. I would like to stock these as I think there is a need but the minimum order is 5 units and I would need to have at least 2 or 3 presold. PM me if interested.
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