Modern variety... if I was to heat and bend within 2 inches of a tie rod end, is there anything inside that is susceptible to excessive heat ? I have a double eye tie rod end that I have been told is only available in one variety, and it is the wrong variety, so I would like the bend in it the other way or at least a bit straighter. Never happy about putting heat anywhere near steering components.........
If I read this correctly, it MAY behoove you to reverse taper the hole(s) halfway down in the Jeep tie rod end to solve your problem. Hate to heat steering parts, compromising their metallurgy... Read this age old riddle about retaining hardness: Know how to keep a hard on? Don't fu6k with it.
I don't know for sure, but expect there are rubbing surfaces made of "space-age plastics" in there. And grease, and a rubber boot.
With most tie rod ends, the ball end of the tie rod end rides on a nylon cup. That nylon won't like heat. The brown part in the pic below is the nylon cup.
A possible solution, though very awkward in this case, would be to submerge the end in water with the part needing heat sticking out. This will require a couple of strong friends with vise grips or something to pull off with a rod end. Maybe you even have a small bench vise that could be removed from its bench and set in a tub of water... Effects on strength of the actual shaft...?
There's a product called heat-sink paste that might work for this , grainger's & eastwood both market it. Tie rod material is mild steel , so heating & allowing it to airn cool shouldn't really effect it ... dave
As HAMB metallurgist, I agree with 2old2fast, the steel material is fine as long as you just air cool. Still air, not fan blowing on it, until it has no more color. After that you can cool as fast as you want. It will have some scale on it from oxidation in the air environment you are heating up in, just wire brush that off. However I think the nylon piece inside is going to be your problem, and the submerge in water technique may be about your best option if you are not able to just taper from the opposite side.
This is the problem... 28 AV8 RHD ( Australia) . 4 inch drop I beam, 48 split bones, want to put the tie rod under the bones. This tie rod end has the taper from both sides. Want to put the nut on top, tie rod end at bottom for best clearance under bones. I can see this double tie rod end suits being on the right hand side LHD under OR being on the left hand side on top RHD. I actually need the kink in it the other way but have been told they only make this one. I may be able to get away with it if was straight (er) . With the kink going forward, it looks all wrong, and it IS wrong and putting more, maybe excessive angle on the drag link which goes backwards slightly to pitman arm, AND the kink being forward hits the bottom perch/bone casting on full left lock . If I had a mirror reverse of this, it would be perfect.
I don't understand. Plenty of people in AU have built AV8's without that tie rod end. Why are you even wanting to use it?
I think this is the part number for the same thing for a postal jeep( right hand drive jeep CJ8) Should be a mirror image of the one you have J0918257 http://www.crownautomotive.net/
Thanks, I guess the jeep has front steering so this one is the same as I have . Looks like I need J0920536 , opposite side and rear ford steering.
I installed my tie rod as you want to do 20 yrs ago(reverse taper) and have had no problems. You can buy a taper reamer from speedway that will taper from the top if that makes you feel more comfortable.
I have a related question. When you do a reverse taper, don't you end up with half the normal bearing surface since it ends up like a bow tie in cross section? I've heard about plug welding the bigger opening before drilling the new taper from opposite side but have never done it myself.
I've had to reverse the taper on spindles before. I've welded up the big end then proceeded to drill and taper ream the correct side without any issues.
In the VW aftermarket there is a tapered bushing made that allows the tie rod end to be flipped to the underside of the steering arm; it requires that the tapered hole be drilled/reamed out so the bushing can be pressed in on the underside.
I've tapered my spindles from the opposite side (giving the bowtie cross section hole) to move the tie rod end. In thousands of miles since it has never worked itself loose. Granted it has half the contact area, but it won't wiggle.
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