How to 302-AOD in a 35-40 Ford frame???

1935-40 Ford with carbed 302-AOD have you done it if so any pics of the process?
it is carbed 302 with AOD
will i need to change the center of the cross memeber or can i use/leave stock in place?
will i need to cut the fire wall?
where do i get the motor mounts?
i have done several 350/350 conversions just not 302-AOD conversions
pics speak loudly!!!! yes i tried the search engine

 

As far as I know the Cole/Hammett 36 has exactly that engine/trans combo, sorry I don't have any pictures handy. But I'm sure others will be able to pitch in. Barring that write Cole a PM to get some of the facts you need.

Out of personal interest, how do you intend to mount the shifter for the AOD?

 

Out of personal interest, how do you intend to mount the shifter for the AOD?[/QUOTE]

dont know yet.....i have to get the parts car in the shop and yank the motor trans rear etc.
Thanks for the info on Cole`s build.

 

Not done it, but you will have to alter the center portion of the frame where the X-member comes together...

 

yeah that was one of my questions,will i have to remove it or buy a plate that may be offered by the aftermarket?

 

Squigy,

I was involved in a couple of these conversions years ago. The small block Ford is a bit trickey because of the front mounted oil pump. Probably the easiest and nicest way to tackle this swap is to modify the front crossmember. If the crossmember that holds the front spring were an inch farther foward there would be no issue at all. Because the front crossmember does indeed house the front spring you can't simply notch it for clearence. Sooo..... in my opinion the best way is to drop the crossmember a couple inches to clear the oil pan. Coupled with a "flatter" spring you'll have a great setup. In fact I have pondered using a front crossmember from a `41-`48 Ford. They are much deeper and will clear any engine easily. Some trimming on the ends will be required since they are slightly wider but no big deal. I have three of these crossmembers in my shop and I will give you one if you'd like to try this.

I would try to avoid cutting up the firewall. They look like crap when they're cut up because they lose all the "character lines" IMO. It's not neccessary and I would not do it.

Please PM or call me 727-808-0932

 

Would love to hear from anyone who's done this and NOT had the crank centerline 8 inches above the frame rail

I wussed out, went with a Heidts IFS, my crank CL is about 2 inches above the frame rails...could havewent another inch lowr, but the pan woul have been real close to the sway bar (in my '36 PU).

I'm sure I'll be cutting into the firewall as well (just by eyeballing it)...all in the name of keeping a Ford in a Ford.

Damn, that SBC sat so well in there

 

Just have to keep in mind, every inch you "drop" the front crossmember, in another inch you raise the car/truck "up"...pl[us, I think you need 3-4 inches (IMO) of clearance to get the crank CL near the frame.

 

I put a 302-AOD in my 37 Ford with original frame. I installed a Chassis Engineering tranny upper and lower kit for a C-4 and slightly modified it by moving the tranny mount hole locations. I had to change the top mounting plate slightly as well. Chassis Engineering might sell an AOD kit by now, I did mine in 2001. Not a really big deal and you won't have to change the x-member much at all (a little trimming and welding is required). I welded in plates to strengthen the small area that I trimmed to get the tranny pan past the x-member rail. Yes I did have to recess the firewall. I wanted the stock look so I kept the top of the firewall alone and built a small box out of sheetmetal for the recess. I then cut out only what I needed from the original firewall to accept the new recessed "box". This was one of my first extensive welding experiences and it turned out great. 302's have the drivers side head offset quite a bit so the firewall will need to be set back at least 3 inches. This gives you room to remove the valve covers and get to the upper tranny bolts if you need to. I used Chass Eng motor mounts. You cold make your own tranny plates out of steel plate to save $$$. Car has over 8k miles now and love the AOD. Will need to get help posting pics sorry. Good luck you won't be sorry with the combo.

 

Ford in a Ford sucks. They are just longer enough than a Chevy to create all kinds of issues. You will have oil pan problems since they don't have a real rear sump pan. Hopefully you have the later short water pump. The firewall will have to be set back a lot (3"-4") depending on how low you can get the engine in there, that is if you intend on running a fan, electric or otherwise. The giant motor mounts (68 full size works best) that Ford has are always really close to the left header. The Chassis engineering center crossmember plates work well, although it is always a treat to access the speedometer gear housing because it is up in a hole. I'm not saying to put in a Chevy, but there is a reason so many cars have them.

 

There was a series of articles I think in Street Rodder a few years ago about doing exactly this. Google it

 

Correct, you must adjust the front spring to compensate. Very simply by flattening out a stock spring by removing leaves or getting it de- arched. Not hard at all. Don't forget with a small block Ford you've got a lighter weight package so all that spring is not neccesary.

I disagree that the firewall will have to be recessed with the SBF. You must however run the short waterpump available from Ford racing. They have them in both V-belt and serpantine configurations.





With this pump your Ford will actually be shorter that a Chevrolet.

 

Off hand, do you know what the measurement is on the pump? I just checked mine ('93 5.0) and it's right at 4 inches (discounting the "nut" sticking out for the fan to mount).

Thanks

 

Mine has a substantial firewall notch, and the motor is set back so the oil pump is over the axle. The AOD is about the same length as the C4, but substantially wider. It took quite a bit of cutting, fabrication, and welding to make room for it. Having said that, the overdrive trans is definintely worth the added effort.

 

I put a rear sump oil pan and a rear sump oil pump. Also used a 31 radiator it sits 3" more forward then the 40

 

Tell me about the rear sump pump, i/e how to make it work, etc and what's all involved.

 

Cole's '36 has an Art Morrison chassis and IFS.

 

I put a 1991 5.0 from a Mustang lashed to a 1981 C-4 in my 37 Ford. The reason I didn't use an AOD is that the center K member would need to be replaced (kits are available) or modified a lot and I didn't want to do that (at the time). Looking back, a 5-6 speed or AOD would have been a better choice. A 3.08 rear helps to rectify the whole deal so I can still get 19-20 mpg on the highway. OD gears would have been better and more fun.

So, I used a bolt-on Chassis Engineering Mustang II front crossmember kit, one of their C-4 bracket kits for the tranny (replaces the center portion of the OEM cross member and their rear leaf spring kit... and motor mounts, and sway bars, etc. I got the whole deal from CE and used my original 37 frame.

I put a short water pump kit on the motor (Ford Motorsports kit) to get some room up front for an electric radiator fan. I also used a Bitchin big block firewall, which make it all very roomy to work on and the battery is in the trunk.

NOTE: Despite all the nay sayers, magazine articles and local experts warning me of problems, I did NOT have to replace or change the pan, change the oil pump or scavenging or modifiy the 5.0s bottom end AT ALL to fit the CE front crossmember. IT ALL FIT PERFECTLY.

Pix by request... my fokti is full. Later, Gary

PS I might have falsely assumed you were going IFS. Sorry, I'm no help there. Gary

 

Did one years ago, and I think the pan and sump were Bronco.

 

Yes PAN and pump are bronco. Just make shure you have 3/4" clearence for the screen and bottum of oil pan. I did'nt and lost the bearings.

 

I think the new 5l have the rear sump setup.

 

the motor and trans are currently in an 88 Ford Ranger.it has the rear sump already,i looked at it tonite.so i guess i am half way there.....man i wish there were some pics around.
i just dont want any costly surprises,plus its going in my cherry 1939 Ford pickup.

 

As I said before, you WILL have to cut the firewall, and the AOD requires a huge tunnel to clear. The other issue is the top trans bolts which is another reason why the firewall needs to go. I took some pics today and will upload shortly.

 

Heres the pics. This is a 36 with a M II. With the short water pump there is about 3/4" between the pump and the radiator, using a 16" electric fan. I can't help you with the installed height of you engine compared to this one because of your crossmember. With this setup, the water pump pulley ends up just under the fan cage. Hope these help.

 

Excellent that is what i need to see....Thank you T McG

 

If you need anymore let me know.

 

Like i sayed i used a MODEL A radiator and gained 3" and the hood fit.

 

So did you ever finish this project ? If you did how did it work out ?

 

Frank Oddo had a article in an old Street Rodder Mag doing this swap. Used a '41 ford pick-up front crossmember that has a deep drop to clear the six cly. engine that was an option in '41 trucks. Might be tough to find one in this day and age.