Hot Rods What Is The Current Flathead Value?

I will start off by saying that there are quite a few of these threads, but the issue is the fact that they are a couple years old. Prices have seemed to have changed, (for the worse) and me being 20, I need to know a good price so I can get a good deal for my new (to me) purchase.

So, what is the value of a insert main pre 59ab? (Roughly)

59ab?

8ba?

8rt?

Merc?

I am looking for a non-restored running value with no smoke; even though a runner can still have problems, it will get me going. Thanks for any help!

 

Anytime you buy a running flathead you are taking a chance unless it's a fresh build with a warranty.

I have bought several in the past and the one I paid the most for running was a POS the two I bought for near nothing both had good blocks and internals.

You pay's your money and you takes your chances. HRP

 

In my experience, 85% of the time buying a "running" engine, flatty or otherwise, is no "deal". Its cheaper in the long haul to buy a core and build it properly, then you KNOW whats in it. Most of the engines guys buy as "good runners" end up needing a rebuild in short order anyway, and you end paying extra $$ vs core prices for a bunch of stuff that turns out to be junk once you tear it down and look inside.
Sure, sometimes you might get "lucky" but my guess is, your odds are about as good if you take your money and "invest" it in the nearest casino...

 

I have been buying,selling,trading flathead engines and accessories for over 50 years.I don't pay much for complete engines(no more than $200) because you (the buyer) have to disassemble them down to a bare block to determine if they are useable.The cast iron intake,heads,camshaft,valves are junk because I don't use them in any form. Flatheads have a lot of problems with cracks running from the valve pockets to the bore. You can install a sleeve and probably get by; cracks are also found along the pan rails because they have no freeze plugs and the residual water left in the block can cause cracks from frozen water. People tell me they have a "running motor", a motor can still have cracks and run.Very few people will offer a refund if you buy a cracked block that is no good,that is why I pay less money than most.

 

Like Flatheadjohn47, I've been doing this for fifty years and can't remember the last good running flathead I saw offered for sale. As Miracle Max said in The Princess Bride, "It'd take a miracle!"

If a customer came to me wanting same, I'd send him down the road or suggest he get a good paying job and save up $4000 or so to do it right.

jack vines

 

Current value is impossible to determine as it all depends on what has been done to the engine and if it is a running engine. Plus, some year flatheads are much more valuable and desirable than others. It's nice when you know of an engine for sale in your area that you have seen running and you also know the owner to be a "stand up" person who tells the truth. Look through this thread and you will get a feel for what folks are asking.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/search.php?searchid=5814125&pp=25&page=2
Buying a bare block is "risky" but if you do make sure it has no cracks ,has the main bearing caps and hasn't been over bored. If you can't rebuild it yourself the best thing to do is pay a professional who really knows flatheads to do it. Plan on spending about $5K. Of course, you might get lucky and find an "old timer" who has a rebuilt flatty just sitting in the corner of his garage that needs a new home. Even then, it's a gamble.
Check this out.
http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=24542

 

Alright, I know what you are saying, but then what should I do? I found out my banger needs basically new everything internally and have decided I might as well upgrade while I am at it.
Not being made of money, a handh long block will set me back more than I can afford. If I heard it run, took the heads off and 'field checked' them like Vern tardel suggests, what is a good value?
Or hell, what is a good driver quality with no speed equipment but with a warrantee worth?

 

Building a nice car and immediate gratification are mutually exclusive.

 

I gave 750 for a early flathead out of a 1935 ford truck I got to drive for an hour before they pulled it out ran great no smoke or knock but I got the whole deal Motor trans and rear

 

Understandably; but buying a complete engine will save me machine work, as well as some issues from inexperience. Using a running motor will allow me to mock everything up, and drive around a wee bit before the big plunge for a rebuild.

If I find a core, by itself and wire brush the deck and it is clean, what should it be worth to me?

 

I would say $3500 to $5000. I don't know about the warrantee.
The best answer to your question is to call H&H Flatheads and ask them.
This one below sold for $4500 on ebay. You might want to contact the seller and find out if he can help you at a price your wallet can handle.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/141016211692?ru=http://www.ebay.com/sch/eBay-Motors-/6000/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=141016211692&_rdc=1

 

It'll all be fine. Just buy a flatty and stick it in there...

 

what FG said.....hang tuff and wait for a nice rebuilt one.....coming out for a Chevy SB swap....

 

Earlier this year, I sold a bare 59 block (with main caps), no visual cracks, but maybe was going to need one sleeve, for $200.00.

 

I gotcha. After working on my engine during tear down, I realized that I liked the kind of work it was. That being said, I bet I would enjoy assembling, but I am just not in the financial position that a lot of people are in.

There is a local guy selling blocks (59a) for 100 dollars. I have a feeling that I will go see him and take a block home, just for mock up. I will clean it and then see if I could use it. If so, I can price everything accordingly.

Btw, h and h priced me a 59a short block for 3500 and a long block for 8k. They seem to do a lot of upgrades to the block, but there seems to be no cheaper route through them.

 

I see them all the time for $500 or less. I got a 1953 Mercury 255 for free, but it laid in the woods for 20 years with no intake on it, all because it was pulled for a burned valve. Block turned out to be good and the thing had so much sludge in it all the internals were protected from the elements.

 

Check Craigslist in your area?

 

Magnafluxed or pressure tested a block is worth $400 to me .Untested whatever castiron junk is bringing.. 4 out of 5
blocks are cracked most beyond easy repair.

 

Ok, good to know.

As for craigslist in my area, a seized flathead is 350, untested block is 250. . There is running rt for 1k, and a running ba on a good f1 chassis for 1k.There really is not much on the list right now near me.

I guess tested block by a reputed local company is the way to go.

 

I paid 400 for this one about 4 years ago


It came out of a running rig and has the bellhousing, hogshead and and adapter to hook it to a Jeep trans behind it. The block was full of clean antifreeze when we pulled it. It came out of a Jeep wagon that it had been in since the 50's or early 60'

 

I think that this is actually the going price for flatheads with an unknown pedigree and up to a grand. If you can hear it run you are ahead of the game only if you know what you are listening to.

Like others have said buying an assembled engine is a crap shoot. I have seen flatties go real high but I consider any old engine to be a core until it is verified that it is not. I have seen some fire and run forever and others make it almost around the block.

Anyway what I have seen them going for is between about 700 and a grand if that is any help.

or I got a nailhead I'll sell ya and I guarantee that it is going to need a little work.

 

This is always a "how long is a piece of string" type question, Ben.

It varies wildly depending on region, time of year, availability, and the whims of the sellers. Right now, from what I'm seeing in our area, the promising engines are all a little high and the cores are a little low. The runners are in the $1000 range or so. The only built/rebuilt engines I've seen are all probably well out of reach.

I still think installing one you can see running first is the way to go for what I think you want, which is to get on the road. If you dick around building and machining one that's going to add a lot of time before you're on the road. I think the only way building one would work for you and your budget just really assembling a stocker (at least as far as valves) from a COMPLETE pile of CLEAN and GOOD parts (that don't need a rebore).

 

Good advice.

 

Keep yours ears and eyes open and you'll find a decent runner for 4-500 bucks....

 

If you decide not to grab a runner and build your own, buy the new Bishop/Tardell book on building Flatheads and read it. I've got a copy I am going to read once I don't need my 8ba in the rails for mockup and bodywork.

 

Alright. I really just wanted to get a rough guesstimate of value so I don't get screwed out of some cash, but I got a lot of information swirling around in my head now...
So the best route, for me, is to find a solid stocker that is all disassembled, and cleaned, ready for rebuild. I believe that getting that prework (magnafluxing, hot tanking, boring, etc) done would allow me to build it up and know that it has good internals; and as I said before, I enjoyed disassembly, so I should really enjoy assembly.

And I saw a comment but don't know where it went. In reply to it, I tried to change my opinion accordingly to what people were suggesting, but I have only a couple pennies to rub against one another. To get a high quality build, you need more like a couple quarters to rub together; in comparison. Simply put, I cannot afford a 5k engine at this time; especially having never owned one, worked on one, or even riden in a car that had one. I could wait until I am 25 and keep the thing in my parents' garage, but what is the point of that? I hope you can understand that.

Finally, I have put a few locals on the lookout for a flathead in such condition. Thanks for the advice.

PS; I have that book Pat and have been reading and re reading it. Great stuff.

 

Found this in the classifieds
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/index.php?threads/958655/

 

This is a loaded question, as all kinds of different experiences would've taken place by most who have posted. Value??? The last time I bought a running engine,I knew that it just travelled from Long Beach to Santa Ana in 95 degree weather around March. It ran 165 on the gauge when I looked in.
It came out of a known retailers personal 40 Tudor that had been traded in to the new owner with cash for the the purchase of his stunning 37 Ford Truck.
Both parties knew this engine well. When known that it was up for grabs I bought it complete. it has been a great purchase for the sum of $2K far cheaper than I could have built it. It resides in my Flatty 32, still have yet to swap the cast iron heads for a set of ours. .

A year before there was an ad on CL right in the vicinity of H&H. A 40 Ford Flathead rebuilt several years before by the sellers father who had since passed away. This was a complete running engine on a test engine stand with gauges, radiator, fan belts, hoses,starter and generator which fired on one hit of the switch. It was $1500.00 complete. It still is on that stand and we start it all the time awaiting another projects completion and runs great!!!!!!

Then there is a whole chassis I purchased way back in 97 that had a trans recently rebuilt 40, 59A.
This engine is in my 34 coupe and it has been everywhere. It smokes now occasionally after 18 yrs but still was way under whatever price that short block would cost.

So price would be whatever you'd be willing to pay to keep your Hot Rod on the road. I haven't run across a bad running one yet, but I've seen a ton or more left out and abused that I'd keep going pass in a heart beat. Good luck in your search.

 

1948 Ford Flathead V-8 engine...59A - $7000 (LONG BEACH)








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PROFESSIONALLY BUILT FRESH..... 3. 25 BORE X 3.75 STROKE...ROSS H.P. PISTONS....21A CRANK AND RODS....STEEL CENTER MAINS....ISKY CAM 400 JUNIOR....1.60 CHEVY EX VALVES....ZEPHYR SPRINGS....ADJUST LIFTERS....SUPER DUAL EDELBROCK INTAKE....#48 STROMBERGS....EDELBROCK HEADS....FENTON EXHAUST....12 VOLT DISTRIBUTOR CONVERSION.....WILL RUN IF SERIOUS....RODDERS DREAM !...............
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I was just cruising thru CL LA. and this is listed, this would be on the Hi end of the spectrum Above.

Middle Medium End:
1951 FORD 8BA FLATHEAD - $950 (CORONA)



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For sale is a 1951 Ford 8ba flathead motor. The engine turns easily. I also have 3 rebuild able Holley 94 carbs that will go with it. If interested, pleas text me at
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Below would be Low end:
FORD FLATHEAD V-8 ENGINE - $700 (ORANGE)



condition: good
make / manufacturer: FORD
model name / number: V-8 ENGINE
size / dimensions: 239 cu. in.

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I have a Ford flathead V-8 engine for sale, complete as pictured.
No carburetor, intake manifold, or distributor is included.
Serial number is: 99A-1014335 Cylinder head number is: 59A
Numbers on bellhousing are: G 126 3 59L
Decodes as a 1946 Ford V-8 100 HP
Email any questions, and appt. to view/pick-up.

The choices are yours, .
CK.

 

I buy French army 255 flatties over here in in France for the equivelent of 850 dollars.
I've got an 8CM flathead in my 51 Mercury but before it went in I weighed the block,crank and heads and did the same with the French one and the French one is about 50lbs heavier. I was told this is due to high nickel content but don't hold me to that