Technical TECH WEEK How I'm making my own dadgum frame for my roadster in the basement

damn I wish I could fabricate near that good!! beautiful work

 

Thanks very much Larry, I'm glad you like it. Bob

 

I keep looking, and not seeing anything about HOW TO VOTE ( and when?). I sure hope I didn't miss the deadline, because this article is great and deserves recognition in the #1 slot.
I saw a lot of really cool fabrication skills displayed at the "Race of Gentlemen" last week, but what you're doing, with the materials you're using, is really impressive.

 

I read that voting start tomorrow (Friday), we'll know more when we know more. Thanks so much for the endorsement, I appreciate it. Bob

 

What an amazing thought process behind the design of the frame rails,
great stuff Bob!
Rich

 

Thanks for the kind words Rich. I think you are doing some awesome work too. Bob

 

nice Job Bob! keep at it!

 

Your a real craftsman Bob,I like it.

 

Thanks Jared, thanks John, Swing by sometime if your down this way and check it out in person. Bob

 

Amazing job!

 

Thanks Hoop, Bob

 

Bob it's really gorgeous. I like every custom aspect of it, including the fact that its flat on top. Good pics, especially of the dies. Really good thread.

 

I just went back and watched your video again and checked the specs for your machine; I was figuring it would need a ton of air to work that heavy gauge metal, but not true.
What are you running for a front cross member?? Stock A or one you're making??
Over the top stuff for sure!!

 

Thanks, Yes, for me it is important that the top is flat under the body. No need for tapered shims or body modifications.
I'm running the Marchant on about 90 psi, which is just right, the machine doesn't seem like it is struggling. The cylinder is about 4", but it's the compound leverage that makes the whole thing work.
I made the front crossmember from 7 gauge (about 3/16"), it is flat across the top with no dip, but I can shim the inside if needed. I made it wider than needed and it will be trimmed back later. The picture of the frame layed out for welding shows it from the front, and the picture below that shows one before fitting (center of picture). Thanks, Bob

 

Went back and checked it out- now I'm seeing it. As usual, very nice work. I've seen the pieces offered to lower the front 2" , but they're pretty ugly ( stamped and all "wrinkly" (carpentry term)).
I like the artist's/ engineer's approach you take regarding form and function- I'm a firm believer that if it doesn't "look" right, it's not right.
I have a friend who was a design guy for Rockwell, and we're always going round and round about how to build things- he likes clean, square lines, and I like a more flowing look ( like a '36 coupe, ha-ha).
Excellent presentation- anyone who missed the first part of this, go BACK and at least check out the first page video, it's pretty "dadgummed" COOL.

Note: "dadgummed" is used with the permission of "3WLarry Enterprises", C. 2015

 

Yes, I don't like the wrinkly look either. Proportion is very important to me for the overall look. I'll mock things up 5 and 6 times before I'm satisfied. Trim a little here, add a little there, 3 days later I'm back where I started! I like a clean flowing line like a 36 taildragger. The video shows how gradual several small stretches add up to be a nice flowing arc. Thanks, Bob

 

Great work Bob,I voted for you.

 

Thanks, I really appreciate your support. Tell your friends. Thanks, Bob

 

well done

 

Don, That means alot, Thanks, Bob

 

Vote cast, and thanks for an amazing tech post.

Chris

 

You got my vote.

 

Thanks Chris, thanks, Hoop. And you're welcome, I'm glad to share and hopefully spark some ideas. Bob

 

Very impressive.
I need to make similar dies to repair the occasional "blem" rail that doesn't go full depth. I've tried re-pressing them but they just won't move. Also, some prefer a more pronounced fender reveal as well. I've see stock frames where the front fender reveal goes only half way up the rail, and others that go all the way to the top. Both my brother's and mine go halfway, as do all these reproductions I made. That's the way Ron wanted it I guess when he built the dies. I would like to be able to modify the stamping if needed.

 

If you're bottoming out the die and you're not getting the depth/definition you want, then yes the die needs to be modified. You need to mill out the female cavity deeper, and build up the male side. Mine may actually be deeper than a real 32, and I can adjust the depth lighter if I want by controlling the ram height on the press. When I was making up my die form I measured a friend's real 32 frame just for a base set of dimensions. Then I measured a Model A body and adjusted the reveal as well as the height of my rail, so mine is just an interpretation. I don't think mine is close enough to re-press existing rails to get deeper definition (although if you were closer we could try). If you do modify yours let me know how they turn out. Thanks very much, Bob

 

Very Nice work!

 

I love your work BUT! Just once I'd like to see someone "lean" the side rails of a deuce frame to match the curvature [top to bottom] of the car's body. The body curves in at the bottom meaning the top is wider than the bottom. The deuce rails are straight up and down.......interrupts the visual flow. It's kinda like seeing somebody with a brand new HAMB shirt on and noticing it has a big ol booger on the front!
If the frame is gonna be part of the car's look, have it continue the top to bottom curve of the body.
Jus sayin.
Your side rails are awesome but I LOVE the center X.

 

Thanks AVater.
Rocky, I LOVE that idea! Now I have a new challenge (which is great) to ponder. Thanks, Bob

 

The straight side served, as the frame & reveal detail replaced the splash apron. An old thread tells of Jon Buttera; built a straight sided frame w/o the reveal years ago.

 

Good Job