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Projects Model a banger sport coupe to 8BA

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by kevinwalshe, Feb 23, 2015.

  1. Actually I was thinking about the hood sides. The manifold looks like it sticks out quite a ways from the block but it could just be the camera angle.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  2. LTM75110
    Joined: Oct 16, 2006
    Posts: 534

    LTM75110
    Member

    Great project,giving me ideas for my 29 Coop..
     
  3. ROCKER77
    Joined: Jun 30, 2008
    Posts: 515

    ROCKER77
    Member

    Kevin my curiosity is getting the better of me, what the details on the little motor scooter ya got tucked away in the garage there?
     
  4. dos zetas
    Joined: May 10, 2009
    Posts: 175

    dos zetas
    Member

    gnarley Beeser, man
     
  5. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    @ROCKER77 , @dos zetas is correct. It is a 1966 BSA Spitfire, twin carb head, fully rebuilt and balanced motor. It's a fun little screamer. Hard tail with a springer, no front brake. I recently got a vintage Wassall tank for it and that is the only thing keeping it in my garage since I haven't finished putting the sight gauge in it or painted it.
     
    ROCKER77 likes this.
  6. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    Got the spindles all cleaned up. Took a few hours to get them presentable. ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1444671213.561662.jpg
    And a pic of the bike for the curious. This is an older pic, I have since put a lower bend of bars on it.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1444671412.747071.jpg
     
    mike bowling and ROCKER77 like this.
  7. Binger
    Joined: Apr 28, 2008
    Posts: 1,734

    Binger
    Member
    from wyoming

    Cool Little BSA.
     
  8. woodbutcher
    Joined: Apr 25, 2012
    Posts: 3,310

    woodbutcher
    Member

    :D Looking good.Keep the updates coming.
    Good luck.Have fun.Be safe.
    Leo
     
  9. 97
    Joined: May 18, 2005
    Posts: 1,983

    97
    Member

    There is quite a bit of talk over on Fordbarn about the spring shackles. Apparently the best LOOKING repro ones
    are no good, they break ... and from what has been said the dealers all source from the same place.
    http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=179162
     
  10. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    I bought mine from mikes-afordable in Georgia. They are they only ones I've found that are made in the USA and authorized by Ford. I hope they are better than the import ones!
    Edit: Just checked a similar product packaging in my garage, and they are through Snyders, and are an officially licensed Ford Product. They do not look exactly like the originals however since they are factory authorized, they should be solid. I will let you guys know if they break or start to wear prematurely.
     
    Last edited: Oct 12, 2015
  11. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    Spindles on, nice and tight. It would already be under the car but I discovered late last night that I received rear shackles, not front ones in my order. Patiently waiting for the man in the brown truck... ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1445727977.171894.jpg
     
    waxhead and ROCKER77 like this.
  12. 4BangerDean
    Joined: Aug 10, 2013
    Posts: 235

    4BangerDean
    Member

    I've been enjoying this thread and have been wondering what you're using for paint on the suspension pieces.
     
  13. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    I've been using VHT chassis and roll bar paint in a satin black finish. Available at Autozone, O'Reilly, etc. It is VERY durable but it takes a while to dry completely. A few hours to handle it without leaving finger prints, and on the can it says to let dry completely for about 3 days. I have assembled parts a few hours after painting and since my hands were filthy, it left fingerprints from handling it too early. I'm slowly learning patience though....
     
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  14. The Brown Sound
    Joined: Dec 18, 2014
    Posts: 131

    The Brown Sound
    Member
    from Maryland

    How easy did your front spring perches come out? I've been fighting mine for days.... it's horrible. :eek:
     
  15. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    @TheBrownSound Not easy at all. They took probably 4 hours each when all said and done. I had to heat up the axle just shy of red-hot, and rest the axle upside down on jack stands so I could get a good hit and not have it softened by resting on wood or something like that. I bought a air hammer but it was not strong enough to knock them through. I added transmission fluid to the perch when the axle was nice and hot and would reheat them. (smoked like a sumbitch) I went with a wide round steel drift and beat the hell out of it. When you hear the axle starting to creak and ping, that's when you know the two materials of the axle/perch are seperating. Might need someone to hold the torch to the axle while you hit it. I smashed the threads on mine and mushroomed them a bit, cleaned it up on the grinder, and used a thread file to bring the threads back up. Hope this helps!
     
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  16. The Brown Sound
    Joined: Dec 18, 2014
    Posts: 131

    The Brown Sound
    Member
    from Maryland

    Thanks, sometimes I wonder if I'm the only one who has problems with these types of things. Haha.

    One tip you probably already know, when you install the new perches..... Silver antiseize.
     
  17. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    I used copper anti-seize. Since it doesn't get hot or move, it should be fine. My next challenge is to figure out how to torque the perch pin nuts without it spinning.
     
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  18. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    Parts haul from yesterday! Looks like I will have a full-fendered rod. What do you guys think? Fenders or not? ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1447006590.004245.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1447006603.303836.jpg
     
  19. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

  20. I like them full fendered and generally stock in appearance. I think mine would benefit from Kelsey's with big and little tires and some racing equipment on the engine.

    Charlie Stephens


    Untitled.jpeg IMG_8089.JPG
     
    ad055 likes this.
  21. ROCKER77
    Joined: Jun 30, 2008
    Posts: 515

    ROCKER77
    Member

    I keep going back and forth on the fenders. Here is what I came up with, NO chop = fenders, chopped = no fenders. But then I seen Shanes '28 with the chop and the fenders and it looks awesome so I am still unsure. I know you don't really need that back seat either so I should come take it off your hands so you have more space in your garage.
     
    kevinwalshe likes this.
  22. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    @ROCKER77 hahaha that back seat is staying with me, but thanks for the offer. I'm thinking no chop and fenders. That may change though, a 2" chop may look killer if I can get my car to sit low enough. @Charlie Stephens What motor is that? Pinto? It's a good looking roadster. I like the green.
     
  23. Motor in post #110 is a 181 cubic inch Mercruiser with a 153 passenger car head. Currently the GM Industrial engine. The is a lot in the archives on this engine. Bolts up to an early Ford transmission with a standard speed shop adapter designed for the SBC. Clears everything and won't tear up an original rear end. It is nice to have to use an extension on the fan to get it to fit instead of having to cut the firewall.

    Charlie Stephens
     
    ROCKER77 likes this.
  24. I like the fenders.
     
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  25. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    Might need to change the title of my build... Picked up a really solid sport coupe body. I'm thinking I may chop the windshield and door tops 4" and I'll be on the road. I need to find the B pillars and rumble seat hinges because they are missing.
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1450644651.650666.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1450644667.200322.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1450644681.350851.jpg
     
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  26. Be sure to ride in a chopped one before you start cutting.

    Charlie Stephens
     
  27. Shit, I start looking for a roof and turn that from a sport coupe into a regular coupe!
     
    kevinwalshe likes this.
  28. ROCKER77
    Joined: Jun 30, 2008
    Posts: 515

    ROCKER77
    Member

    I dig the sport coupes they have a cool look to them especially chopped!!
     
    kevinwalshe likes this.
  29. kevinwalshe
    Joined: Apr 22, 2010
    Posts: 428

    kevinwalshe
    Member

    Working on the front end completion today. Bent the steering arms down this morning. One done...
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1451243313.709115.jpg
    Second one done...
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1451243353.678316.jpg
    ImageUploadedByH.A.M.B.1451243381.046937.jpg
     
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  30. ROCKER77
    Joined: Jun 30, 2008
    Posts: 515

    ROCKER77
    Member

    Kevin since your gonna run the coupe body surely you wont need that rear seat anymore, You should let me help you clear some space in your garage and take that off your hands for you!!
     
    scott27 and kevinwalshe like this.

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