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Technical help me set up clutch linkage 55 chevy 454.

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by bigvinny, Aug 19, 2015.

  1. bigvinny
    Joined: Jun 24, 2012
    Posts: 282

    bigvinny
    Member

    trying to figure out what z bar, pivot ball mounts and rods needed for clutch linkage set up for 454 big block 55 bel air. I think I want to go with 57 style clutch fork with the pin in rod mount. any measurement or picture would help, Thanks
     
  2. aaggie
    Joined: Nov 21, 2009
    Posts: 2,530

    aaggie
    Member

    A lot will depend on what Bell housing and headers you picked but I would go with a hydraulic setup. If you don't get the Z bar perfect you run the risk of jamming the linkage with engine torque during a quick gear change.
    Sometimes you have to cut the original rear mounts off of the frame for clearance, also build a sturdy transmission cross member.
    One more thing, the pivot ball on the frame is in the wrong place if your car came from the factory with an automatic trans. If it did you will need to relocate it to get a standard shift Z bar to fit.
     
  3. bigvinny
    Joined: Jun 24, 2012
    Posts: 282

    bigvinny
    Member

    using 55 cast iron bell housing, fender well headers are well out of the way. I know I have to weld a pivot ball bracket to frame, it was a powerglide car. Just want to know if the standard z bar,brackets and rods will be workable with big block. I don't have a problem with custom fabrication just trying to find good starting point. I don't want to go hydraulic clutch.
     
  4. 56sedandelivery
    Joined: Nov 21, 2006
    Posts: 6,695

    56sedandelivery
    Member Emeritus

    The biggest issue is, is the engine mounted in the "STOCK" location, as based on the bellhousing mounts, or moved forward as most swap motor mounts are these days? When the engine is moved forward 1 or more inches, the "normal" clutch pivot points are changed also, and that can cause the linkage to bind. I did a BBC swap into a 56 Chevrolet in about 1973, and at that time everyone massaged the firewall to clear the valve covers/heads. I occasionally had problems with breaking the distributor cap/rotor. That's not how it's done anymore. You will most likely have to add additional length to all the linkage if you have the engine moved forward., and if that's the case, the bellhousing mounts will be stressed unless they are spaced forward also. That can be done with simple spacers between the mounts and frame horns. The headers I used way back then were Jardines, and fit very well; only the number 5 tube needed a slight dimple to clear the steering box. These days, it seems everyone has bigger issues with header fitment after moving the engine forward for firewall clearance. Build your clutch linkage to fit where the engine will wind up, and not use the factory locations. I am Butch/56sedandelivery.
     

  5. Deuce Daddy Don
    Joined: Apr 27, 2008
    Posts: 5,544

    Deuce Daddy Don
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Just go the hydraulic route.
     
  6. bigvinny
    Joined: Jun 24, 2012
    Posts: 282

    bigvinny
    Member

    engine is in stock location . did some research on line and danchucks say to use the 56-57 bellhousing ball mount with the offset for oil filter boss the 56-57 z bar with big block I may go this route.
     
  7. 2OLD2FAST
    Joined: Feb 3, 2010
    Posts: 5,263

    2OLD2FAST
    Member
    from illinois

    Go mech. , can't leak , adjustable , won't give out & leave you stranded..
    dave
    Oh yeah , it's Traditional :cool:
     

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