Technical Hydramatic shifting

Hey everyone, just got some miles on my newly rebuilt hydramatic in my 1950' olds and got a couple of questions.
The first shift in Drive (2nd to 3rd) is prett hard. I read in some hydramatic threads this is normal (more or less) but imo it is too hard. If i rev the engine higher (2500+) the shift gets smoother.
I also read this may have to do with the front band adjustement.

Also: In low the transmission starts in 1st and shifts into 2nd but not higher.
Is there a possibility for the transmission to shift all 4 gears from the stand? (As the acceleration from 2nd is pretty slow in my opinion)

Regards,
Michael

 

Mine kind of clunks from 2-3. What Ive learned to do is sort've let off the gas right before that shift and then it goes a little smoother.

Also, mine does start from 1 every time in drive. Ive read about them starting in 2 but thats not the case with me.

 

Mine acted similar. Only positive thing was the deep first gear but I hated the early shifts it made.

 

'50 Olds 88 single range with selector in Dr. range will start in 1st gear & shift 2-3-4 when working correctly. When selector is in Lo. it will start in 2nd gear & stay there unless acc. is floored, then it will "force shift" upward. When throttle pressure linkage is set up as per shop manual, light accelerator pressure shifts should be 1-2 @ about 5 MPH, 2-3 @ 11-14 MPH, & 3-4 @ 18-20 MPH.
Yes, the 2-3 shift is kinda like licorice or the Grateful Dead ... you either love it or you hate it ....
Everyone should get the chance to ride it a good STOUT 324 powered '49 - '50 Olds coupe with a beefed & pinned dual range - it stays with you the rest of your life.

 

So i can assume i need to adjust the throttle linkage that goes to the transmission? Do i have to lengthen or shorten it to get the first gear back?

 

The TP linkage shouldn't have any effect on low gear start. Valve body is more likely ...
First make sure the engine mounts are in solid condition, as oil soaked or collapsed rubber can keep the trans from working correctly. Then, on the firewall you'll find the clevis & pin for the TP rod adjustment. pull the pin, relax any tension on trans lever, & make sure fast idle cam on carb is off. Adjust clevis so pin slides in with no tension.