I cant answer your question but I have to say I think it looks great just the way it is. maybe add a set of fender skirts and be done with it. Nice car.
The size of the job depends how far do you want to take it and what you want it to do. What type of rear end and suspension is in the car now? Does it have leaf springs, and if so are you just after helper bags for ride control? If you want full air ride, you will have to replace the springs with air bags. If it has leaf springs, that means fabricating up a 4 bar or truck arm type suspension to locate the axle, and then building new mounts for the bags and shocks. If it has a coil springs and either a 4 bar or truck arms, then it is much easier to simply replace the coils with bags. But, you still will most likely have to do some work on the spring cups to support the bags. Beyond that, you will need a compressor, tank(s), gauges, switches, and valves. Good luck
As always it depends. What do you want/need? Do you want to go lower? Tail dragger? or just a little lower? or are you towing a trailer? Your answer to this question will tell you/us what setup works best. It can be as simple or complicated as you want it to be. Godspeed MrC.
With the dingle balls around the glass it doesn't need air ride it needs hydraulics. I'll bet if you do a search you'll find lots of threads about bagging one as well as bagging on one.
Nothing wrong with a little juice. I'm running juice on the back of my 53 with full length 98-05 Chevy Cavalier coils and it rides smooth as glass.
Ok then kind of a tail dragger then. 1. Notching the frame will be the biggest hurtle, you can get a kit (Gambinos) or build one yourself, you will need to cut the floor above the frame for a large notch, otherwise you should only notch 1/2 the height of the OE frame and plate it . on that car you will only get about 1 inch more travel if you just C notch it. but that is a easier option if you don't want to drag the bumper. 2. install air bags and mounts if you go for the large notch than you can put the bags on top of the axle and build a truss from one side to the other but if you C notch and plate the frame than I would mount the bags either in front or behind the axle with a truss, this will keep the heights of the bags and brackets out of the way and give you maximum drop. Bags size for the rear is usually 6 inch bags. You will need shocks, the trick there is get short one and compress them and build mounts making sure that when they compress they do not bottom out before the suspension has reached max drop. 3. remove all but the main leaf spring and the helper or overload spring, leaving you with a weak spring pack, you may be able to remove the 3 inch blocks you have now and still bottom the frame out on the axle. I would get a pair of the 1/2 snubber style bump stops so you don't hear the axle hit the frame. Let the suspension sit and add blocks back in only if you need to, to reach max drop. 4. you will need an air compressor/tank/valves/line/switch to control the system. you can get this as a kit or piece it together your self. your not looking for speed or to play with it, you can get by with a small 3 gal. tank, small valves 1/4 inch and 1 compressor 20% duty cycle. 5. Of course you can go all out with a 4 link and shockwave air bags, computer controlled ride height etc.etc.etc. I just answered your question based on lower cost and easier installation. Godspeed MrC.
@droplord49 That is one good looking build. If you haven't I wish you would post a thread on that for the masses to enjoy.
ive dropped her another inch,am gonna fit air shocks,and try rig up some sort of tank with compressor,maybe,
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