You have got some style in your vision . Early chevys stand out because you just don't see many of them these days and parts are hard to find and you need to be able to fabricate what ever you can't find or buy.
It's been some time since I worked on this. But I made som progress. I found a Nissan rear end with springs that's going to media blasting next week. I've been playing around with my second series front end, so it can go to media blasting too. Drums are attached to hubs by rivets. Should I remove them and let the wheel hold them on tightened by the lug nuts? That would make service and setting up easier, or is that a bad call? I found a cheap set of Willy's CJ front springs, they should fit. The guy will drop them of close to me, and no charge for transports. In a month or two. I plan to 86 my plate wheels, and when I found out my 31-33 wheels don't fit my drums sad, I plan to sell them. I've found a set of 1934 master wire wheels will they fit my 2.Series brake drums? Pics come later. I've finished my shifter and found, a good master. Although 1947 single circuit master, it's cheap, close and New! I might redo my pedal set up to get them closer to the gearbox and install the old site mounted master (47-50), instead of the end mounted dual circuit.
Any thoughts on the front brake drum idea? I just like to be able to pull them with out having to undo full hub/bearring. I'm thinking about convert the from studs to M12x1.5 instead of them UNC 7/16 at the frond. I know this may sound a little weird to you guys. But first of studs in 7/16 ain't common, aka expensive. And if I have to pull an Smokey I have to make it look stock, and front and rear looking the same. So matching lug nuts help. The "arm" that goes between the tie rod, drag link and left hub, what is that called? I'm missing that one. I'm looking in too if they swap between Task Force truck and 1929 chevy car.
What year dit chevy change from "old" ball joints to modern ball joints in steering of there trucks? I found this at an danish for closure auction site. To me it looks like a Task Force front axle. With ball joints and that thing I'm missing.
i just call that arm , left steering arm. i THINK the connecting rod changed in '55 but i might be wrong. i have a 56 and 57 at the shop now and i will check.
I got a Series 2 or Task force front end(maybe 56) that got the old style tierod ends, but it's missing that arm. Seller claimed it was a 1956 3100. This other front end is cheap and close by. It has modern style ball joints, and the left arm is very square-ish looking. I might have do some mixing and matching with my 56, the other one and my 1928 front end. I would like to use the old ball style. The are more pleasing to the eye.
I won the auction, I got the front end for about 10-12 bucks. So pick up is Monday. I got my springs to the sand blaster shop at my job. So things move along nicely. I hope I can go and collect the lug nuts I need tonight, so the rear end is ready for blasting too.
Yes Quality Control inspector, and a welder outfit doing big steel construction. Bladt industries, at Lindø. So I'm busy again. I found a way to get stuff blasted and I got a connection to buying steel for fabricating
Im working on a new brake pedal, for the underfloor set up, and have some issues Pic 1 is just and excaple of a way to do it. Pic 2 is another way. Pic 3 is the MC im gonna use. Pic 4 is the pedals gonna use. So the question is; the part under the pivot point, if the angle of that is to steep(verical), will that lower the pedal ratio? Im running non-booster. So every inch counts. And is it a good way to set it up, when you put the lower part at a good angle, install the pedal at a good high/distance from seat and then tack, dismount and weld? Or will I have to measure it up in the rigth angle and stuff. View attachment 3060749 View attachment 3060751 View attachment 3060750 View attachment 3060754 The pedals are from a 1946 1.5 tons truck. I will convert them to push instead of pull.
The ratio will not be affected by anything other than the length of the arm, the longer it is you will get more movement of the piston in the MC. It will work better, or easier if the arm is close to vertical, however.
I've found me a pair of free buckets for my project. And nothing beats free, even though they need a little work. Anybody got any advice on how to clean nugahyde or nappa aka classy vinyl?
Free is always good. Just scrub em with household cleaner, anything that you use around the home, with some h2o. I have a guy coming to look at buying my 35 Chevy project tomorrow. Works been slow, so something has to go.
I always like to use a product we have in the states called simple green. Cuts grease well and is mild on hands and parts. Smells good too.
Hey. I've been picking small pieces from the infinite To-do list. And the last I did was blowing the wheels apart. I been contemplating to use the 21 in split plate wheels, for the time being, until I can afford tires for the other and better wire wheels. But I'm missing those bolts/nuts/washers(bricks) that holds the outer and inner rims together. Are they avalible new? Are they avalible used but good? Or are they all long gone and wasted?
I just made a deal for 5 17 inch Artillery wheels with tires and hub caps. Although there are three hub caps of one type and two different. But they have tires, that are use able, at least for mock up and test drive. But not like new.
Anybody that can ID this? Seems cheap, seller suspects truck. Maybe it's to ugly? Measures 27.5x27.5 inch and outlets is 1.25 inch. Been contemplating a 1928 grill and radiator. But it cost twice the price. And I have to drive a long way to get it. But I can't make up my mind. And that radiator cap looks neat.
Cool Radiator. I agree with above that it may be tractor or maybe truck. Neat looking core. Looks '20s to me.
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