If it's loose, I use jumper cables - black grounds both field term & case, red touched to arm will motor the unit.
Look for the oilers on the front and back - add a few drops of motor oil from your pump oiler. Should help!
It's an "each one is different'' deal - if it's clean INSIDE with good brushes & turns smoothly, I'll clean it up & run it. If it's not for my own use, it's just a rebuildable core unless gone through.
I did clean it up inside and lubed the spring hinges that keep pressure on the brushes and moved a brush wire that was touching something that it shouldn't have. It's all back together with a new regulator ($85 my cost!!) and it's charging fine. THX man
buy a dirty Motors Manual off of Ebay you don't need a fancy clean one. GM and Ford test using different terminals. I look it up every time. I rebuilt a Ford generator and got it to motor. I looked it up followed directions and it worked fine. I polarized it (as per the book also) and it charged like a bitch when I started the motor for the first time.
Only newbies need to o a search. Groucho if it spins at all it is not shorted out. Which means outside most it needs brushes to be functional, maybe bushing to be jam up. You can get brushes with a visual. basically the test you are doing take the place of using a growler to see if it needs an armature or a meter to see if it needs fields. Everyone owns a meter but a growler is a pretty pricey piece of equipment.