Getting a motor ready to go to the machine shop and I want to tap the small oil galley plugs, behind the timing chain and install threaded pipe plugs. What is the easiest way to remove these? I don't want it falling down inside the motor , never to be seen again......... I was thinking of removing the rear plugs first and using a piece of long solid bar stock to try and drive them out the front. Thanks Root
Slide hammer and a drill bit. I drill 'em then use my slide hammer with the sheet metal screw attachment.
That's the way I do it in my shop. When reinstalling , drill and tap the front holes and use pipe plugs same as rear. Just don't set them in too deep as you will block the oil galley holes to the can bearings!
I drill an 1/8" hole in the center of the plug and thread in a 1 1/2" self tapping hex head screw half way. Then I use my 12 inch curved nosed diagonal pliers and lever the plug out. For really tough ones I use my slide hammer.
just like Beaner , easiest way to pull them , then going thru the back is nice too as you can push any crap that builds up in the bore that the tanking process misses or is cooked in there ( we rifle brush them when we get the blocks back from the machine shop ) , like said careful on the threading , often the guy at the machine shop cuts the tap off to limit the depth on the screw in cap so it will not block the drilling .
You could remove the front plugs, then get a long rod and drive out the rear ones. Oh, you already figured it out!
Well Root, I was gonna suggest a hand grenade, precision shells with a spherical projectiles or a small nuclear thermal devise but there wouldn't be too much left. Maybe good ol' Beeno has offered the preferred method,HRP
I haven't seen a slide hammer in 20 years....now I gotta find one. I pulled it down to the core and I have had it at the car wash a couple of different times. This thing was nasty....good core though. Crank looks to be standard, as does the bore.
Ditto on the self tapping screw and a slide hammer for the push ins. Any good tricks for removing stubborn screw-in plugs that want to round off before they will loosen?? I think I read heat and wax somewhere? Does that work?
I'm wondering the same thing Bob. I am gonna hafta pull the back ones as well. I have heard the wax trick works, but I have never tried it.
Have removed soft plugs from hundreds of SBC blocks. First flat strike the rear plugs with a large hammer. Then use the proper square or hex tool to remove. If plug won't move and/or the tool spins. Drill a hole thru plug and use a square cut easy out to remove the shell. Then use a long piece of 1/4" rod thru the oil galley from the rear and tap out front oil galley plugs.
The self tapping screw trick worked. The only problem I have now is getting one of the block water drains out. It has seized itself solid. Even with a 12" pipe wrench it wouldn't budge. Probably never removed since 1967. I am step drilling it now. Gotta pick up an 1/8" pipe tap tomorrow.
You can drill the front ones right out with a 1/2 drill if you're gonna tap it anyway. Not recommended if going back with a soft plug. You can use the wax deal on the rear ones. Did an old 283 last month, and had the surrounding area so hot ,the wax burst into frames . The burn is just about healed.. Use a long candle and gloves! Still need a 5/16 square tool though. I used a brazed tip 5/16 cutting bar from my lathe. and an adjustable wrench...Twisted that bar about halfway around before the plug cam out ,...after the wax deal!
He who has been burnt once gives good advice, it is call a hard lesson learned..... crap I must be really smart then
yes also while its hot use a sharp pointed punch and give it a good wack in the center of the plug to help break any thread bonds before trying to loosen it after applying the wax, some times I wack it then heat and wax it and they come out easily as it allows the wax to get in the threads , but make sure the wax is high crystylene stuff or real bees wax as candles its hit or miss with the chemicals they use to make them .
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