Projects Only 15 First Hot Rod Build

just found this and read it straight through! AWESOME JOB!!! You are doing fantastic, I'm impressed.

 

Corrugated cardboard generally doesn't make very good templates. Yours look far better than most. The better choice is single layer heavy cardboard. Save those shoe boxes, doughnut boxes, Christmas shirt boxes, even file folders. You can draw out your template with a sharp pencil, ruler, compass, etc. then accurately trim with scissors. A part with a fold is much easier to make with single layer cardboard too. After that you can hold the template in place and carefully trim to fit. An accurate template will save you a lot of time grinding and fitting the part when you make it.

Great job on your hot rod, I'm impressed with your ambition and skills.

 

Thank you!! All the comments really help me keep going on this project.

Thanks for the compliments and advice. Your right I had to do a bunch of grinding to get the pieces to match. In the future I'll follow your advice.

 

I read the entire thread. I am impressed!! Your welds look professional. Keep up the good work.

 

Thanks Marcia!

 

Quick question. Is half an inch too little clearance between the steering shaft and header? Thanks in advance.

 

It's OK for the Shaft. Perfect really.

 

Thanks to Bob for letting me borrow his bead roller. Here are the floor pans I've made so far.

 

Lookin' good! Don't forget to add stiffeners or some other structure to bolt your seat to. The sheet metal by itself isn't strong enough and you'll find your seat rockin' and rollin' beneath you as you drive. Nice work on the bead rolling!

 

Here's the rear crossmember I made and the hitch
I also finished the center part of the floor

 

Looks good Sam. You'll be towing the boat and fly fishing soon !!

 

Looking good

 

I got the 74 dodge heater box but it was way too big of course so I took out the core. Right now I'm really only worried about the defroster. Would making a box around the core and a outlet for the defroster be good.

 

Another quick question. Is it acceptable to have the battery in the passenger floor? Or is this a bad idea? Thanks.

 

Impressive!!!!!

 

Thank you!!

 

This is what Hot Rodding is all about! You are doing a great job, I'm glad you didn't give in to naysayers who recommend finding an easier project. You will be much better off later on from learning the ropes on a difficult project, the next one will seem easy. I'd like to come by and see your project sometime. PM me, I'm in St. Albans near Newport. I run a welding company, you are well on your way in the trade,if you ever want some welding instruction id be happy to help a youngster. we really need some young blood in this trade, all the kids your age want a job behind a computer and don't realize you can make better money welding.

 

Hi Sam. The heater core will work fine with a box and vent hose to the defrost and one to the floor for heat. Fan into the backside. Do not put the battery exposed in the passenger area as the fumes are flammable and toxic. It must be outside; best in a vented area or a sealed and vented box.
Bob

 

This was OEM on mid 50s Ford trucks. That said those frames are tall. This may be difficult on a passenger car given you'll need clearance for exhaust, etc... Nothing wrong with trunk mounting, just make sure you have properly sized cables for the added cable length. Oh and proper venting too.

 

Thanks for the advice.



I decided to mount the battery on the front drivers side between the headlight and radiator

 

This is the relocated filler neck to make it easier to hook up to the s10 tank

 

How far is it above the top of the tank?

 

About 5 inches to the center of the cap.

 

Ok, may be a little slow filling if the slope of the pipe near the cap is shallow.

 

X2! I have this problem with the trunk-mounted tank behind the seat in my coupester. The slow-fill isn't the problem, it's that many gas station pump speeds cannot be regulated by the user. They are either full-on or full-off, which can cause the fuel to "burp" back up the pipe and all over my trunk. You might be able to improve your situation by carrying a length of snug-fitting radiator hose to insert into your filler neck from the outside to improve the angle. That's what I have to do. It's a major pain but for the moment I have no choice.

 

The filler neck seems like it will be at an ok angle because i was able to make it shorter by changing the position of the filler.


On another note I got the engine and ignition wired and started the car after a few tries. I wish I had gotten a video but even with a friend from school helping I just didn't have enough hands. IT IS REALLY LOUD even with the full exhaust run. The car seemed to be running rich so we turned down the idle mixture screws. We got it running okay but I found out I need a rebuild kit for the carb as there was gas everywhere! When I gave it a little gas it started squirting gas out the accelerator pump! I also need a new battery, a shorter throttle cable, and a different throttle return spring. All in all it went pretty well and it should be yard driving soon.

 

Good Sam. Get all the safety things done before you run it to much. Proper dual throttle springs, neutral safety switch, brakes, etc. Don't take a chance on getting hurt or taking out your Dads garage door.

 

Fine job you are doing. The frame swap was a good direction. You certainly picked a stout enough piece of iron for the hitch crossmember. If you have the S10 throttle cable you can shorten it, the ends will come apart,,done it... No doubt you will complete this project and put it on the road.

 

Even after rebuilding the carb I was still getting way too much fuel in the float bowl. I followed Bob's advice and readjusted the floats, checked the needle and seat, etc but I was still having the same issue. Finally after tearing down the carb about a dozen times and even swapping over to another carb I had, I got it fixed. A guy came over from the local car club and helped me figure it out. Apparently the little vent on the accelerator shaft wasn't opening enough causing pressure to build in the carb. After bending the rod that goes to the accelerator pump so the washer opens 1/32 of an inch the leaks are gone.

A friend of mine from school also came over and we did all the brake lines, wired the headlights, temp gauge, horn, and a whole bunch of other little stuff. Of course we ran into a couple problems like the bleeder screws being so tight that after trying everything two of them are still stuck. Also I couldn't get the car to draw from the tank. After turning it over a bunch it pumped two small squirts of fuel and then wouldn't pump any more. I'm using a EFI s10 tank that Bob gave me a while ago. Can I just draw through the in tank pump or do I have to modify it?

 

Is this air cleaner any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-6-1-2-C...tor-/131472874214?hash=item1e9c64dae6&vxp=mtr
I like the look of the smaller air cleaner but does it allow enough air flow? Or is there another reason it won't work? Thanks