Projects Screw It Im gonna go for it! 36 Ford coupe to be

You can blame me if it it makes you feel better, or blame the neighbors tree for that matter. Just as long as you know its not my fault.

What the hell did I do ?

 

It messes with my head to see how much some people can accomplish in a short span of time.. I respect people with drive, you sir have drive in spades!

 

Who is this guy with the shaping tool?

Does he have website?


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Spurts of spades
Thanks

 

RC, his username is heyitsnate. Another awesome fabricator with tons of drive. He's sorta dropped off the board due to tech issues posting. ( although i have seen him lurking ) And now we learn he is feverishly working in his laboratory....... I might be interested in a tool i could smash my thumbs with.....


Here's his thread....
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/on-the-bandwagon-heyitsnates-36-5w-build.641995/

 

When you mentioned the cowl pivot and pivot at the headlight stand a light bulb went off in my mind. You are definitely going to have an issue. To get the front clip to line up with the body properly you will have to either add a spacer under the headlight stand or pivot the entire properly aligned and securely bolted clip/body on the headlight stands. Both methods will require you to do sections of both the "A"(cowl) and "B" pedestals. The next issue will be relocation of the running board to frame mounting holes which needs to occur in either case. Also the inner fender to frame mounting holes will also need to be relocated. By pivoting off the headlight stands the radiator mounting shouldn't require much adjustment, maybe within the adjustment range of the mounting hardware(springs). If you pivot from the "A"(cowl) just a wedge cut through the pedestals would be necessary but the radiator will need to be relocated higher, perhaps close to half of what you dropped the rear. This method would also raise the front fenders higher relative to the front wheels.
I look forward to seeing your solution.
I visited with Nate on Tuesday afternoon. Beside some really solid looking hammers, He's gotten into a "scooter" mode. Vespas and some rare and exotic brand he's reconstructing. Also has a Triumph show bike he will be finishing soon.
I think he wants to make the 36 into a roller, get the body pinned down on it and maybe put it out for offers to finance the hammer project.
Keep up the great work on your project, all the obstacles that you are encountering will be overcome if you think through implication of the changes.
Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors,KB.

 

Concerning the pivot issue with wedge channels.
Two ways to think about this that I know of.

First is to think about the body pivots point on either end and move the car in its entirety from bumper to bumper. 1 spot lines up and everything else is off requiring rework. All of the modification is in the body.

Second would be with a central pivot and to work the frame around this central pivot. You seem to be here, With the pivot just behind the cowl. In a central pivot, 1/2 of the modification is in the body at the pivot and 1/2 of the frame is adjusted at the pivot.

With A bit of a frame tweak to get the front 1/3 of the frame following the new (same) inclination plane of the heavily channeled rear. A pie cut at the pivot and sweep the frame.

If you take a look at my car, the B pillar is the pivot point. Slight wedge to the front in order to line line grill with body lines, then a pretty sizable rake to the rear tails. So much that I needed to make new rear sections to fit.

 

Thanks all. Made a bit of progress on the floor mock up. The car came with direct sheet metal floor panels so they're goin in. I have a firewall too but I don't see why I would switch from stock. I see myself mounting the front sheetmetal loosely then tweaking things til it works.

 

Hey KB. Where's the pictures??

 

Got the second sections of sub rail roughed out. It does the front section of the rear wheel arch. Everything to do with the floors will be temporarily secured with sheet metal screws until I figure out how the channel affects the front end...

I removed the bottom section of sheet metal near the b pillar cause it's pretty rusted and I have the replacement panel. It will help access the inner area between the wheel well and the b pillar where I'm going to make a panel to tie the sub rail to the b pillar and seal off the inside from the elements due to the channel. Hope pictures help.

 

Firstly, I can't figure out how to downsize pictures to the size this site will except. A nephew is coming by to school me on iPhoto operations. I'm afraid until I figure that out, My avatar will have to suffice. Secondly I want to be respective of your thread and not cause it to swerve into a ditch. PM me your Email and I can load you up with pics.
Best Regards and good luck with all your endeavors, KB.

 

Man, When this is done no one will ever know what you went through. "Oh look another '36 3 window custom!"

 

Here is a pic of mine 2 summers ago during shakedown runs. If you look closely, you'll see cut and weld lines all over it from all the slicing and dicing. Three inch chop, 3/4" section of the windowsills, 3&3/8" section stem to stern. Wheels were just mock-up rollers.

 

Some small progress. Made some patch panels for the b pillar cowls ( is that a part?). Thinking about the floors and channel. Found a good sheet metal source so I'm ready when Kenneth comes over.








I'm happy as a pig in mud...

 

You otta be ! The car is coming along nicely . Lot's of work though aint it ???

 

little side project that I will need when I tackle the rear fenders.... Dumpster dive rim that I pulled off the side of the highway. My bride doesn't get that kind of activity.

 

Was on a roll then I ran out of welding gas ....




I used 16 gauge , put a couple beads in it. Below is the panel for the drivers side. The outer cowl will attach to this then the sub rail will attach to this panel as well, sealing out the elements.

 

curious how you got the depression in that stump ?

 

Chainsaw , grinder, Palm sander.......depths are varied from deep to shallow. Something I read somewheres

 

So I thought I would put the front clip back together.... Holy chit that's a project! I found the reference on this site. Not 100 percent there yet but you can see the rise left at the firewall by the wedge channel. Also the back window area bugs me. I think it needs to be leaned more forward.





Also I salvaged some supports off the old rusty floorboards. I think it will be fun to know there under the new floor.

 

You may be right . There seems to be a nice flow up the trunk panel across the catwalk area then bam , the roof seems to be to vertical . How wide is the catwalk area ? It looks like you have lots of area to slant the roof more horizontal . This would narrow up the catwalk issue as well . That's my 2 cents . Stay at it man ..

 

Headway on rust repairs. Made up a trunk floor. The best part was when my 11 year old son cranked the bead roller while I guided the panel. The most interest he's shown in the project to date.....

 

More progress. Took 2 inches out of the firewall feet which did the trick sorting out the wedge channel. Made drivers side B pillar repair match the passenger side. Fine tuned the trunk floor.... Lots of welding yet to do. Next will be the door sills and floors.

 

Keep it up buddy!


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Thanks RC. Today was a good day. Made up some sub rail pieces for the newly channeled a pillar area. Sprayed everything with weld able primer. Now I can do the sub rail pieces for the doors and get the floors. I PROMISE I will go back and make everything pretty. I just never can wait to post my progress.

 

All the sub rails welded in. Fitting the floor. After about 5 years now I was able to remove the front to back cross bracing. It feels weird to not have to climb through the cab like a jungle gym.






After the floor is welded in I'm going to redo the door tops and dial in the door openings, finish rebuilding the front cowls, on and on but I'm chipping away at it.

 

Yep that is the way to do it. A little at a time. Looks good.

 

I suggest that you think more about whether to slant the rear of the cabin further forward. The reason is that by narrowing the remaining panel behind the door (because you laid the top forward), you could revise the side profile such that it loses the classic 3 window cab feeling that has the relatively consistent width panel behind the side windows.


Imagine the top of this panel being thinner with the laying further forward of the top of the panel that holds the rear window. You don't have much of the classic corner budge left now.
It is your car and you are doing a heck of a job but I've been looking at and loving and owning 1936Fords for a long time and felt I ought to at least share my concerns with you but I'm sure you will make it look great no matter what course you take. That rear window looks a bit vertical because some guy decided to build the body on a slant and that made the dang window appear more vertical.
Keep workin'... you're doing great and thanks for taking us along on the build.
My 2 or 3 cents,
Al

 

Just read from start to present great work . Keep at it !