What's up been a member here for years, but I've never posted. I've gotten countless tips, tricks, part numbers, and ideas from this site. I figure it's time to give something back and maybe, just maybe some other fella could one day benefit from this. It will probably be something I'll screw up and then have to fix. First few posts will get this thread up to date. Had planned on doing this but have been slacking. Snow days here in VA have let me get caught up. Bought a 54 210 4 door from some local old timer down in Southside, VA. He bought it at an estate sale in 1982, took it to Sears, put new tires on her and parked it in his barn. Sat there until October of 14 and he decided he need space so he moved out under his storage port. Long story short, I talked him down to about $1800 and I got myself a new project. Pics are from Jan 6.
Jan 7-17 Got it to the shop and started looking under the her skirt. Cleaned her inside and out, 33 years of sitting took this little longer than expected. Pulled the interior, went through top to bottom, turned her over and everything works...works horribly but works.
Looks pretty solid. Its cleaning up nicely. Have fun with it as you work on it. Dont make the same mistake i did by tearing it all apart. It was like 10 years before i worked on getting it back together. Cesar
Jan 17-February 1 (mainly weekends) Pulled and rebuilt carb and fuel pump. New points, plugs, wires, coil. Pulled and rebuilt starter. New battery and cables as well. Did I mention she's got no brakes.? Took a morning to free up the front drums to get her rolling.
Thanks fierro Haha yes that's the toughest thing...it's like a black hole. I start into something that get deeper than I wanted to get. Got a buddy who is old time builder trying to keep me focused. "Get it on the road. Don't let it turn into a money pit."
Weekends Feb 7- 14 Blew off with the chick cuz I had too much going on and spent all my extra cash on parts. She called me this week, guess she's over it lol Got her all buttoned up and turned her over. No fuel getting to the pump. Just rebuilt pump and carb, can't be that. WTF?? Went back again and pulled the fuel line from tank....black sludge. So this weekend I'll be cleaning and refinishing the tank. Any suggestions on best way. On the bright side, gravity fed carb again, it runs much better with rebuilt Rochester. $38 bucks from Napa. That was her flowers btw. Haha
Nice car ! My 41 was in about the same shape when I got her. I like four doors. the only 2 doors vehicles I own are trucks, Yeah! I have the same 54 235 in my old chev. Have fun. R Linde
Smoked...hell my truck is a four door too. I'm a big guy...need too to spread out. Haha Got to working on her again this weekend....got nothing but bad news. I was all fired up cuz I got just about all my parts I ordered in and was ready to roll. But I just spun my wheels all day. Pulled the fuel tank to get sludge out and found these beauty's ring up another $250-300 They ended up bigger than original once I got poking with the screw driver So went ahead and gravity fed to fire her up and dial in the carb I just rebuilt and nothing won't fire. Getting spark to every plug...she is turning over and over just won't fire....frustrated. Had easier go's on bigger pieces of shit... Pulled carb, power piston was locked up, freed it up tested plunger and moving parts again, put it back in, crank it......no fire. Went at it till battery died still nothing FML. Wanted to get something accomplished so I pulled the generator and cleaned it up. Cleaned up some of the shift linkage and steering column as well. linkage So after tossing and turning all night and studying Rochester exploded diagrams and rebuild threads for the 4th time...I think I have pretty good idea what's wrong. I probably screwed something up in the reassembly. Headed back out to figure it out again. Gonna re/rebuild the carb and replace the float...only thing that isn't new in the carb. If y'all don't hear from me for a few days...you can find a good deal on a 54 210 4 door on eBay in VA
Do yourself a favor and spring for a new gas tank,Auto City has a good deal on them. HRP http://www.autocityclassic.com/1941-54-chevrolet/1953-1954-chevrolet-car-gas-tank-ts21/
nothing worth doing is easy - just keep going forward - I have left my original budget in the dust behind on just about every ride that I have had.
Update Got doomsday prognosis on her today. Here's the deal: Didn't touch the 54 for 2 weeks. Got the tank from nat chevy and new rebuilt carb from Mikes Carburetor parts since it was only thing I didn't replace. Got them both hooked up today after I went al around searching for the right gas tank reducer fitting. Went to fire and it just clicked like the starter was stuck. Took the starter off and tested it and it works fine. I had already rebuilt starter about 2 months ago. 2 weeks ago it was rolling over just not firing...now it's locked up. Pulled radiator and tried to turn the crank pulley and it won't budge. Pulled the new plugs and they are covered in rust. WTF? How in the hell does it lock up after 2 weeks of sitting after it turned over but didn't fire after 32 years of sitting in a barn?? 95% sure motor is froze. Don't get it. Any suggestions?
I had a 47 do the same one time...the only thing I can think of is condensation on that old carb gets built up on the inside and runs down into the heads....someone else will know for sure. Like Mo said...Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder...let it set a few days and try to rock the crank, if its not mechanical failure, she'll turn over.
Eagle...nothing to be envious of over here brother. Put ATF fluid In all the cylinders last Tuesday. Been letting it soak in for a few days...gonna try and turn the crank tomorrow. Smoked1, everything I've read basically says same thing. If I don't do it now I'm gonna have to do it eventually. Took entire front end off tonight, glad I did. A Lot easier to get to everything. Plus now I can do the front disc conversion, drop springs and front suspension, with nothing in the way. Pulling the 6 tomorrow if my guy brings over his hoist. Gonna pull the head and assess the damage. Same buddy has been building drag motors since the 80's...he is gonna guide me through it, neither one of us have any experience with chevy 6's. He's a ford guy and I've dabbled in some small blocks and old honda cb 550/750s bikes...So this should be cool. I've got the shop manual, an iPad and YouTube...even I should be able to figure it out. While I have it out (and reading Cali Bills manual) I'm thinking upgrades....anyone have any experience with performance rebuild? Suggestions on cams, valves, lifters, bore? Just curious. Going 2/3 carb set up...haven't made up my mind yet.
you really dont need the hoist to pull the head. Ive done a few over the years, they are heavy but if I can do it you can! When you go to reinstall the head get a couple of old head bolts or same size bolts as the headbolts and make yourself some guide pins,it makes setting the head WAY easier. R Linde good luck!
Pulled the head last night. I didn't throw a bearing or anything too major. 2 stuck valves and 3 bent pushrods. With the head off the crank rolls freely. So it's not a total loss. While I've got it opened up, I've pretty much decided to go with a few upgrades. Mill the head/port the valves, 3/4 cam. Any reason to mill/bore the block? Upgrade to aluminum split skirt pistons?? Is it really worth the time/money? Or just mill/port head, 3/4 cam, then split headers and 2/3 carb set up? Just want a cost analysis of doin full deal from some of y'all that have done it... Is it worth the time, money, effort and aggravation? If so let's do it. If the gain is minimal then piss on it. Any all suggestions are welcome.
I'm bumping this up because of your "Crossroads" thread. I'm with the camp that say hang in there. The motor turns freely. Don't give it the heave-ho over stuck valves and bent push rods. I know that head is heavy, but if the cylinder bores look good, I'd clean things up, bolt her back up, (new head gasket), and give it another try. I believe she'll go! Your 235 already has aluminum pistons (BIG improvement over the splash oil motors). The valves are plenty big (I believe 1.94" intakes). Extra compression would certainly help, and the head will take a healthy cut (.100" and more), but to do so requires sinking the intake valves, so I'd leave things be for now.. When you get it running (and sound), a dual carb set-up (better fuel distribution), an HEI converter in the stock distributor, and split exhausts will give you big bang for the bucks.. And if your take the motor apart for a rebuild, have Delta Cams regrind your stock cam, and resurface your lifters.
If this is the mill in question from the "crossroads" thread, I would pull the pan, check pistons, rings and bearings. Give it a major service and go from there. But a better cam, double the carb and better ignition. If you just wants to drive, get a HEI from a newer Mill. And go look for a better dual points distributor, at you next swap meet. And drive the wheels off it until you find what you need. That mill should be back on the road in descent time. Flush, lube it and run it.
I'd keep the 235 and simply repair whatever is needed to make it healthy again, don't go crazy spending money on the drivetrain other than to get it into good working order. Perhaps a valve job is all that's needed before you bolt the head back on, maybe do a light surface cut on it to ensure a good head gasket seal. A split exhaust manifold and perhaps a dual-carb intake along with some ignition work will make it sound nice and look cool when you open the hood. Rebuilding an otherwise good-runner is a throwing money down the drain, keep those funds ready for what the car really needs to make it fun and reliable again.
Thanks for the info guys. Sticking with the Six. Fastest way and most economical to get her back on road. She doesn't need a full rebuild. Gonna spice her up a little put it back in...crank her up. Appreciate the info fellas.
Damn feels like forever since I've posted on here. Been on summer break for about a week (best part about being a teacher) and have had some time to get back grinding on the 210 again. Over last 2 months there hasn't been too much progress...lots of checking, thinking, researching, thinking, measuring and cleaning....shit ton of cleaning and more thinking and planning while scrubbing. What I've been doin Tore down the mill as much as needed. Pulled the main caps and checked, they are all good. Also pulled rod bearings and we are good there too. Trying not to do a complete rebuild. Cleaned the head- removed cleaned valves, springs. Removed all carbon build up on the bottom, cleaned and decreased the top. Cleaned and scrubbed the block. Cleaned and scotch brite the cylinder walls and tops of the piston heads. Cleaned oil pan, bell housing, and 2 dozen other bits and pieces. Here are some pics. Here are some pics I've snapped...
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