Technical Modern Gas Shocks Wrong for Drop Axle Setups? True?

Weezy the Model A is at the point where she needs front shocks. I've searched here but am still a bit foggy on this subject, however. I was told to not run gas shocks with a front leaf spring drop axle setup on a lighter car, but was not given a clear reason as to why. Anyone heard of this as a no-no? Just a myth or some misguided advise? Or is it true?

Weeze has a 4" dropped Superbell front axle. So-Cal has painted steel sleeved "airplane" shocks which are way cool, but they are gas. I can get non-gas 1972 Chevy 1/2 ton P/U shocks that will fit. But being that they are truck shocks, I fear they may ride too hard. Speedway doesn't offer the cool sleeve style, only sleeveless which isn't as neat. And they too seem to be gas.

Weeze needs 12" ride height shocks with probably 9.5" to 14.25" travel distance with 5/8" ID mounts on all ends. What do you guys run, gas? I am not a fan of the friction shocks. Way cool and super vintage, but kinda fussy and not near as effective. My brother has some lever shocks, but I don't think they are for me either as they too aren't real effective.

So any advice? Thanks..

 

Back in the day (1970) I used 1950-51 dodge passenger car front "airplane" shocks on my '32 3 window full fendered car they worked really well using a 5/8" stud on the axle and modified (shortened and bent F-1ford pickup shock brackets that followed the front fender curve) it was tight at the steering arm on the drivers side spindle but it woked using 1956 Pick up steering box and "bent pitman arm" try them or early VW bugs have a shock with a dust shield I believe

 

The original shocks work fine. I like lever shocks over telescopic every time, but I just like the early look.

X2 on VW shocks

 

Tube shocks were stock from the factory in 47, so are traditional. I cant see why gas filled would be any different. I use'em

 

I would avoid heavy duty gas, in fact HD any type. Gas shocks are really intended to reduce fade aren't they? As long as the dampening is right I don't see a problem. Never heard this before. Has anyone else?

 

Yes, that was my understanding too. The gas is added to stop the foaming of the fluid I think.

 

They won't hurt a drop axle setup, some are pretty stiff (I am thinking rancho here) I would look for something along the lines of say a mini truck slammer shock.

They used to make a shock called a stiletto (suspension techniques I think) that had the dampening designed specifically for dropped vehicles, I ran them on an off topic truck I had then later used them on a track nose roadster build I did for a guy. They worked really well on both builds.

 

I'm betting the concern for gas may be that stiffness. I know some guys get "wheel hop" in the front end and can't figure out why. Would a stiff gas shock cause that hop?

 

It should not, a lot of guys get wheel hop that could be cured by proper dampening which is the primary function of a shock absorber. Like I said I may avoid shocks made for the mud truck crowd, they are made for a different terrain then what most of us will he driving on.

My thoughts on boingers is this, if I am looking for shocks for a vehicle I look to a vehicle that is around the same weight as the one that the shocks are going on.

 

I doubt you will have wheel hop with gas shocks,they are so short with a dropped axle I would prefer a heaver shock. HRP

 

Use MGB rear shocks. Fit stock holes, etc

 

I knew MG's were old school tech-wise and actually have a 1979 MGB and will crawl underneath it tonight to investigate your suggestion a bit futher. It does ride good (for a sports car) and is light weight like a Model A. This is an interesting idea to be sure. Worth a look-see.

 

Early VW beetle shock work great on a Model A coupe, I have them on the front with 4" dropped axle and on the back.

 

I've seen new gas filled shocks actually raise a car by about an inch...the pressure that you have to overcome to install them was in this case plenty to actually raise the stance. I don't know whether that pressure would diminish quickly in use or not...the guy who had that set returned them and used some other brand. A Model A is likely to be lighter than most potential donor vehicles, so this might be a concern.
The lifting effect was a surprise...squeezing the things down to bolt them in wasn't too much of a problem. The lift was verified by swapping back and forth with old shocks, and it did not go away after brief use on the road.

 

So-cal Tex: I found a non-gas VW set on Ebay that look like they'd fit the bill very well. Are the VW shock mounts 5/8" in diameter all around? If not, can the shocks be sleeved or un-sleeved to fit my mounts? VW's are light too, so I bet they'd ride nice.

All this info. from all you guys is very helpful. Thank you.

 

too bad they don't make the adjustable shocks anymore.

 

They are still out there but they are also more than $20 each. I think most of us are on a budget, or at least like to save a buck or two when at all possible.

 

Absolutely no to the gas shocks! The Vw link pin front shocks are great, but even better, if you can find a pair of KYB non-gas 55408 shocks, you'll be in hog heaven. That is the number I used to sell in the VW days for lowered link pin VW front ends. You might be able to cross reference that number into something else non gas if that KYB number is NLA.

The VW shocks, if memory serves, don't have the proper hole size to do the deal on early Fords. That is pretty easily solved with shock bushings from companies like Energy Suspension, or another similar. My O'Rieley's store here in town with the H.P. section stocks them on the shelf.

That said, the other route is a lot more expensive, but talking to a company like Bilstein and having some cover shocks valved for your application can't be beat. Just gets pretty pricey...

 

MG setup on the rear of my sedan. these are midget (longer arm)

 

You are right in that the VW shock mount hole is listed at 12mm in diameter all around, while my current mounts are 5/8" all around. I think I can switch out the bushings like you are saying. Non-gas VW seems like a good idea if I run the tube shocks, which I'm leaning towards. Autozone and I think O'Rielys seem to have them listed.

 

Just swap the bushings, if I remember correctly I had to drill the rubber out some to fit the larger diameter bushin in them , I did it years ago and they have been fine. You want the early king pin style shocks for like pre-'65 VW and I believe fronts and back are the same so either one will work once you change to the larger size bushing.

 

I've used the 49-51 Plymouth/dodge front shocks, they have the upper cover. Monroe makes them and they're readily available at O'Reilly's. I'd have to look up the part number.

 

• 
  

Found it. Non-gas. Here is the info for anyone who's interested:

Monroe Sensa-Trac - Shock
Part # 5752

• Front
• Extended Length (In): 12-3/4 Inch
• Compressed Length (In): 8-5/8 Inch
• Travel Length (In): 4-1/8 Inch

Interestingly, it lists them as compatible with some VW's.

 

The MGB shocks are aluminum and are fairly compact.

 

The Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks look real nice because they're 5/8" ID at all ends and about the right ride height too. My F1 brackets are not yet mounted so I can wiggle them to work.

As Bruce Lancaster said, gas shocks want to "push up" all the time when left sitting. Fluid ones do not. That may be why they are not favored for these older setups. That may also be why Monroe still makes the non-gas Sensa-Trac for the older cars.

 

I use Pete and Jakes shocks both on the front and the back. They come in 2 sizes. Check it out!!

 

Sorry to disappoint, but to the best of my knowledge all Monroe Sensa-Trac shocks are gas pressurised. The Monroe website states that # 5752 are 'Nitrogen Gas Charged'. The bigger issue though when using these shocks on a vehicle other than their intended application (or on the intended vehicle which has been lowered/raised) is in the 'Sensa-Trac' technology. Monroe achieve somewhat of a 'dual dampening' feature with this series shock. This is achieved by incorporating a slot or groove in the shock shaft approx 1 - 1 1/2" above and below the seal at standard ride height. Hence, if you hit a small ripple in the road the shock will bleed off some fluid so as to give the feel of a 'soft' shock, once the shock has traveled the initial 1 - 1 1/2" on a bigger bump you then get the full dampening effect as per a firmer shock. This is all great if the shock starts in it's intended position. What happens though if the shock is installed in for instance a shorter 'installed height' is that you then get up to 3" of diminished rebound dampening and full compression dampening from your initial ride height, (or the opposite effect in a longer installed height). Don't get me wrong, a good quality shock at a good price, but only in the application they are designed for.
I hope this all makes sense, and I don't want to come across as a smartarse. Just trying to help (I've been selling Monroe shocks for the last 25 years). If you can set them up at the correct height I can't see any reason they won't work o.k. The Monro-Matic Plus series are also gas charged but do not have the Sensa-Trac feature. Unfortunately they don't list them for the Chrysler/Volkswagen application.

Cheers,
Arnold.

 

Technically, the gas is just an anti-foaming feature, shouldn't make any difference in firmness. Ran gas adjustable tube shocks on my C Cab but am in the process of switching to Armstrong levers as depicted above, simply because they are less obtrusive and have more "old school cool" factor.
I can't see any reason not to run gas shocks on whatever axle you like as long as you select the right size for the application.

 

I have a model A with So-Cal gas shocks. The shocks do not push it higher.
If So-cal sell these for hot rods, wouldn't they be suitable for hot rod applications?

 

You would think so. But I see lots of stuff that's incompatible with other stuff. The So-Cal shock top bushing is 7/16" but most folks run an F1 mount which is 5/8" so go figure.

55Belairretrorod Excellent points. Good to hear from someone who knows and works with the stuff. Thank you!

After snooping about on the web, it looks like most VW shocks are still just the simple old fluid type and look to be the best choice if you want to avoid those gas-charged shocks.

I've learned a thing or two here, and that's great! Thanks for the wealth of info. you all offered here.