lowering ur 57-64 straight axel f100

Where did you guys get your spring bolts for the front? maybe I just missed in the thread..

 

after 2 evenings of laying on the garage floor, I got mine flipped, and guess what, my springs must be beat, I did'nt notice it when they where in their original location. I was on the bumpstops HARD, and the oil pan was on the drag-link.. So I removed everything AGAIN..lol and decided to just remove every other leaf spring from the pack. And mount it back on top of the axle. And now I can really see how beat these springs are, they are deflecting real bad.. Looks like I am on the hunt for some mono leaf set up.. Who sells them? I have a LMC catalog but did'nt see them anywhere in the catalog..Oh by the way, it looked real mean sitting that low...

 

PM "springer"

He really helped me out and the price with shipping from Michigan to CA was cheaper than what I could do locally.

This thread really helped me plan/execute my flip on a '62 (below):

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=531700&showall=1

Todd

 

I went to a local truck service center and got them for $28. I did fine with everything on the flip, but the springs are just beat, to the point that the oil pan was resting on the drag link... Not sure what I am gonna do now, wither re-insert that leaf's I pulled out and go back to the way it was and save my pennies to buy new axle..

 

I'd just go junk yard searching for some decent springs...maybe buy 2 used sets and come up with some good long leafs. You can always cut the eyes off of an extra set of mains to beef it up.

Guess I got really lucky. I pulled a couple of leafs out to lower it even more.

May not look like it, but there's about 3" to the pan.



And here's how it's sitting right now...rear is coming down another 2 1/2" this weekend VIA extending the shackles...

 

Yhea I'd say you did, I just gave away a complete axle and springs from a 49 F-100 on SUNDAY..lol

 

haha

Yeah that stuff is worthless if it's in your way...good luck with yours!

 

Fellow HAMBers, Hope this thread is'nt dead. I need some help here. I have a 59 f100 panel that I've been working on. Did the axle flip like this forum shows, did'nt move the steering box up, but z'd the drag link instead, added the dampening shock and had the truck professionally aligned. Truck drives fine at low speed, but anything above 20mph, I can barely keep it on the road. It wants to dart all over the place. Any magical cures? I am about at my wits end with er. Any suggestions, (dont want to start over with a dropped axle, single leafs, or sub-framing) would be greatly appreciated. I am rather desperate at this point. Thanks!

 

Reminds me of a similar condition with a '69 GMC PU I had at my shop, and during a disc brake swap apparently one of my guys got the inner tie rod ends on the opposite side of the drag link, and once it started getting up to speed it would swerve back and forth down the road as if you were whipping the wheel. After getting it to an alignment shop they noticed it.

Not sure how this would correlate with a straight axle setup, but...

 

BTW, I always figured I'd subframe my old ford truck, but this may be a good way to go. Especially since it wouldn't get driven much anyways.

 

Thanks INJUNTOM, but dont think thats the case in my circumstance. Keep the ideas coming tho, gents.

 

I assume the king pins, tie rod ends and spring bushings are all good. If not start there. If you had it aligned did you get a print out from the alignment? Of so what is the caster at? If it is to high you will get the whobble you speak of, like a shopping cart wheel with the wheel bent back and to mush caster.

 

TinShed, Did'nt get a readout on alignment specs. Can probably talk to tech that did the work and see if he can tell me though. Thanks for your input.

 

Here's my latest addition.... It has a Sid's dropped axle, so kinda different but the same.

 

I'm starting the rear drop on mine. The front already is lowered but it is by the way of the front Torino clip. I don't think my rear leafs are original truck units, they look longer. I plan to do a 2 1/2" notch, flip the axle, and then flip the rear shakle perches. So far I figure the flip of the axle will give me 5 1/2" of drop and then I will lose 3" of that drop when I flip the rear shackle mounts. My truck should sit 2 1/2" lower in the rear than it does currently. I know it sounds a little different but just the axle flip would leave me with only 1 1/2" of clearance even with the notch and my rear end would only have 1" of clearance before the pig hit the bed of the truck!
I do planning on boxing the frame at the notch. I made my own boxing plates they are 32" long, 3/16" plate and the notch is made from 6" ID, 1/4" wall pipe (I cut along the top section of the pipe so it is 2 1/2" deep). I figured if I am going to box the frame I mind as well do a large area. I am planning on running a class IV hitch so I can pull my 16' vintage travel trailer. I may have to add air shocks or bags to help handle the trailer weight (these little campers are heavy), but the 429/C-6/9" combo should have more than enough power.

 

I got my front dropped last night and it looks like I have the same front suspension travel as you. I have 1 inch to the bump stops an notching the frame would do no good because there is only 1.5 incees from the tie rod to the pan. How does your truck ride?

 

I fliped the rear of my truck and had the same problem did you just slide it back?

I tryed flipping the rear springs and that moved the rear axle back way to far.



Are you guys using stock length shocks?

Tim

 

Do you think this will work ? They claim replacing with this mono leaf spring can give it either a 3 inch or 4.5 inch drop depending on which one I order:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/150878125841...84.m1423.l2649

I know there are better ways but I'm looking for cheap way to do this and also I'm a newbie in regards to doing this type of stuff.

 

I'm running mono leaf springs on my 58. I dont suggest them. Just buy a Sids 3" drop axle reverse the eyes on your springs and remove one leaf up front. You'll need to bend the steering arm so its parallel with the draglink. Small investment and your truck will get 4.5 inches lower without suffering ride quality

 

quick question, I bought the rear mono leafs to lower the back which they said was 6 inches but it doesnt really look lowered. Was I suppose to put them under the axle ? If so, how do I do that ?

 

I'm not sure if you can flip the rear axle and use mono leafs. Can you post a pic of your truck? It should have dropped an easy 4"

 

Really hard to tell what the springs are gonna do until you put the weight back on it. And you can flip the axle, but you'll need to c-notch the frame.

Judging by the clearance now (between the axle & bump stop), you come down a noticeable amount.

 

Any idea where I can buy the axle perch so I can move the leaf springs under the axle ? I found some here: http://www.jegs.com/p/Mopar-Performance/Mopar-Performance-Spring-Perch/747051/10002/-1 but I dont know if these will work cause I dont know what size to get. Thanks for your help.

 

As long as they're for a 3" axle tube, and the same width (or even 1/4" narrower) as your leafs, your all good. I think the ones I have are from Moog, but I can't remember.

 

a bit late yellow ,but where is your rear shackle,that would lower you a bunch,i used monos and am now flipping the axle there is only 4" between axle and frame before the flip,notching next

 

Dude , the oil pan was on THE TIE ROD, not on the drag link. the angle of the drag link is causing all the bump steer..Get a book on suspension, and read it. It gets confusing, if you don't understand the components. The drag link needs to be on the same plane as the rear part on the spring.

 

Not always true. Totally depends on the leaf spring arch.

Ideally the drag link should be in plane with the ground at loaded ride height. This puts the drag link in the center of its arc of travel, thus minimizing bump steer.


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I just ordered my monoleafs the other day from these guys. I cant wait to get them
www.performanceonline.com

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I agree,, I just didn't want to bring the ground into the equation..

 

Bringing up a dead thread.... for all of the poor guys on here (like me) there is another way to lower the rear of your '61-'66 Ford F-100. Order a set of lowering shackles for the rear. They are available for $40-$50 on ebay. The shackles are 2 inches longer than stock. When you install the shackles only, you will get 2 inches of lowering. But if you want 4 inches then grind the rivets off of the front spring hangers (for the rear springs) and reverse the hangers and re-install with grade 8 bolts. Again, you will want to check the pinion angle of your axle. Just my 2 cents worth...