Technical Anyone ever convert from lug nuts to lug bolts?

I'm looking to convert my rear hubs from lug nuts to lug bolts. Anyone here ever do this? Did you re-drill the axle flange, or use the existing holes and just size up? Other issues with this? Anyone got pics of such a setup?

 

Chuck,is this something you are complicating about doing on the wagon? HRP

 

Yeah, If I switch to bolts, I don't have to pull the wheels forward toward the body that inch before I drop them down. That , coupled with a radically reversed wheel may get me where I'm going on the wagon without narrowing the rear end. Always thinking, ya know.

 

Is this due to the modification of the rear wheel wells or the lack thereof? HRP

 

You can switch. HUGE pain in the A## to install the wheel. Change whatever you have to, but don't reinvent a proven concept. JMHO

 

I was wondering why anyone would want to do this but obviously I wasn't thinking about a modified car. LOL

I would think this shouldn't be too difficult to figure out.

 

I don't understand how this would get the change you are suggesting. If you don't move the flange, it wouldn't matter whether you use bolts or studs.
The radical offset wheels you refer to should do the trick.

 

If you guys will look back at the build Chaz is doing,he has molded in the rear fenders on the Ranch Wagon so there is no wheel well.



From what I understand this concept would make it easier to remove the wheel in a event of a flat tire or just putting a tire on the rear.

The idea is simple and I'm sure it can and probably has been done.

Now that I think about it Harley -Davidson actually had a type of allan head nut they used on the Servi Cars (3 wheelers) HRP

 

Perzactly! For those who haven't seen the car, here's a photo of the rear fender with blended skirts...
I've added tubs for maximum clearance, and if I eliminate the studs sticking out I can drop a reversed wheel straight down for removal.

 

You still might not get the wheel off if the offset is that critical. But that being said early Buick and Chrysler cars used bolts and the rims where flared to accept the bolt. My Case tractor uses 11/16" bolts with no flare and a washer they are grade 8 bolts and go to something like 85# torque. In the end a narrowed rear might be the best way to go.
Cool car though. Good Luck!

Pat

 

some Porsche and Volkswagens did it . but the rim was hubcentric ( located on the center stub and it carried the weight of the car ) as the bolt is just used for clamping the rim to the flange , and the biggest problem was when the threads in the flange wore the tires had a tendency to come off and the flanges were thick too . you can shorten the studs to the end of the lugnuts when tightened down as if the nut strips out the extra stud won't do squat anyways ( nuts ussually fail before the stud unless you bottle neck it by stretching from using a impact gun ) , and chamfer the stud end to put the nut on easier . .

 

Chaz,this has nothing to do with the wheels but I just noticed how deep your spare tire is,,what's the plan for a gas tank. HRP

 

Jeez! It does look deep in that photo! In reality it is no deeper than the stock one... Just square instead of round!

 

The challenge will be finding a lug bolt that is big enough. The knurled area on most wheel studs is often fairly large.

Otherwise, 5 new holes would have to be drilled and tapped.

Either way, tap-n-go. You'll be fine.

Post pics, please.

 

I own 4 bmw's and they all have studs instead of nuts.

 

Nuts thread onto studs. Do you mean you have bolts?

 

These days you'll be stuck with metric
Go to the local U-pull and grab a set of BMW wheel studs. The threads are 12mm x 1.5mm pitch

If you need to go larger diameter, try VW /Audi from 2008 and newer . The threads are 14mm x 1.5mm pitch.

 

Maybe a different approach. I had a '55 Chevy gasser and couldn't get the 10.5" slicks out. We put bolts through the shackles that we took out when changing the tires. Jack the car up by the rear cross member (we used a bumper jack, remember those?) When the load is off the springs the bolts come out and the rear end sits on the ground. Once the tire clears the body, jack the rear end up till the tire is off the ground.
A real PITA but I didn't want to cut the fenders.
You might have to unhook the shocks, too. We didn't.

 

There's a way around that; rather than using a too-large lug bolt, machine up some 'nut-serts' and press and/or weld those into the existing holes. This may have the added advantage of adding some length to the thread if the flange thickness isn't that deep. Generally, you want thread engagement equal to the diameter of the bolt for maximum strength. One other thing to think about may be an additional plain 'stud' as a locating pin like Chrysler used on their 'lug bolt' cars to ease lining up the bolt holes.

 

Back in the days when I was still arguing with the engineers over at Porsche, it was the consensus that anything at or past six full turns on lug nut/bolt is sufficient.

Adding a pin, like OEM DCPD stuff with lug bolts, might just exacerbate the problem of getting the wheel past, unless it is really short.

 

This was gonna be my next approach. I was going to use removable pins for the shackles. I know this will work, but I'll have to raise the ass end really high.!

 

Personally I'd look into quick release pins on the spring shackles and carry a good NASCAR type jack in the car. Bob...........Note to self, read the last post before typing a reply.........

 

If you plan on dropping the springs, don't forget you'll probably have to deal with the shocks and driveshaft too.

 

Boy, I wouldn't try that.... With a typical 1/2"-20 bolt, that's well under 3/8" of thread engagement (six full threads would only be .3").

 

I did, with spacers that were just over 3" thick, at over 220mph.

Guess what?

Nothing happened.

The car is still running that setup, and is still racing.

 

..even if using lug-bolts, how are you gonna get a wrench or socket on the bolts to tighten or loosen them, specially with a deep offset rim?
...I think that car would look better with the original wheel opening and skirts, just my 2 cents.

 

I'd turn those fenders into skirts.

 

The rear fenders are skirts, just welded in, as for tightening the lugs or bolts the bottom of the wheel is low enough to reach them

 

There should be enough "meat" between the existing studs to drill bolt holes in the flange any size you think necessary.

 

I did my front hubs, 1/2"-20. Rather then metric, loctite studs in standard or acorn lug nuts.