I figured i would ask here as maybe some of you have narrowed your own axle housings... I narrowed my 9" for my rpu build.. Jumped around clamped it and did all I could to keep it from moving.. Axles slide in tho the carrier fairly easy. If I measure the back of the brake from from say front side of the housing to the back I have close to an 1/8" difference (front measurement is wider) I was concerned cause when I tried measuring it by the tire treads I was up to 1/2" difference. But only defense on that I the Coker tires seem to have a but of wobble to them. Places a stand and a pointer to the side of tire to see how crooked the tire was.. Running a 700x18 so tire is ruffly 32.5" tall.. Any thought or help is welcome.. If that is to much how does one go about getting the housing back in line?
You need to put it in a press to bend it in place and use a real jig to check it. It may even need to be recut/rewelded in a jig.
You need a fixture like this, with the end donuts bolted to your housing ends. Center shaft is 1.5" dia. Even with this setup, you can get some distortion and pulling. But, when you slide the bar through and its off 1/16 or so, you can rose bud on the side of the tube that you want to pull over. Heat up a spot the size of a quarter red hot, and let it cool on its own. Dont quench it. When it cools, it will shrink and you can pull tubing in any direction you place the heat.
Get the axle as close to perfect as possible. Toe out on rear tires will really get your attention on fast corners.
I have narrowed and worked on hundreds of axle housings. You would be surprised at how many of them have at least one side that is bent, including housings from brand new cars. I would get it straightened out.
I have been narrowing and straitening housings for 40 years. My experience has taught me that if the ends were not in alignment when the job was done, you might never get it straight. I use a 12 ton jack and some hefty chains, along with a stand to cradle the housing.
I'd clamp a couple of straight pieces of bar stock across the axle flanges to check instead of brake backing plates. If there is wheel run out those numbers don't mean much.
They need to be pretty straight. I use a fixture like the one that big deuce posted and if when I an done it is not straight enough I use heat to pull it round straight. Usually using that type of fixture it is straight. My biggest problem with rears being out of alignment is when you weld a big assed back brace on them. But like I said it needs to be pretty straight.
Very true. I have observed the exact same thing, with no apparent harm done. That said, get a jig into it, and fix it right.
Thanks for all the responses!! I should have took the time to get a jig lined up in the beginning. I drove a pickup that kicked outta gear and drove itself into a fence pole for a short bit that the drivers side of the rear housing was bent and I know what ya guys mean... Rain and snow you didn't know where/when it was going to kick to the side. I have a buddy who is a retired millwright that has done some axles going to come give me a hand in measuring it on the flanges and see how far out I am. Have to learn somehow I suppose
We used a threaded rod with a nut to check from the face of a quick change bell to the brake rotor. Like an inside micrometer. The actual measurement was not important, but front to back and top to bottom all needed to be the same. On a circle track car, we would allow 1/16" but really tried to get 1/32" per side. didn't matter too much because we had to straighten one side or the other after most every race. I don't know what we would have done if our guy (Joy Fair)wasn't out front most of the time. I sure miss the 'Old Man'.
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