Hot Rods Man-A-Fre carb questions

I have some questions for those of you running Man-A-Fre setups. What 2G carbs are you using? I have some early literature that says to use '58 Chevy truck carbs or even Olds carbs on bigger engines. I have 5 or 6 early to mid '60's 2Gs that all need to be gone through. My other question is if anyone out there has ever run one of these setups at high altitude. It seems like 48s are a good size to start with and I know I'll have to jet it down even more, but just looking for suggestions. I was also wondering what type of carb synchronizer is preferred for setting these up.

 

Here's a NOS Man-A-Fre manifold with NOS carbs on the HAMB, the owner might be able to assist with specifics.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nos-man-a-fre-intake-for-chevy.946975/#post-10671603

 

The small 265 / 283 engines used 1958 Chev truck carbs Rochesters No 22-305 .327 engines could use Rochester 1958 Olds carbs No 22-508.
The Chev Carbs have a venturi bore of 1 3/32 for 7.5 square inches
The Olds Carbs have a venturi bore of 1 1/4 for 9.8 square inches

327 and larger engines need the Olds version

Small Chev engines need jetting to .043 and .045 / .046 on larger engines
Olds carbs should be jetted to .049 when used on the larger engines

Hope this helps.

 

Awesome! Thanks! My engine is a 1960 Corvette 270 Horse 283 that is bored .060 over.

 

Also, the old and still easy to find, the "Uni-Syn" works well.
At least it did back when I had my Man-a Fre on a 350 in my 56, 210 sedan.
The "stick" type (mercury in a tube) like for tuning motorcycle engines also works well. While they are more money than the Uni-syn, they are also more accurate and a bit easier to work with overall.

As for altitude, there are many tricks to make the system work well.
One is using the idle mixture screws for more than just the idle mixture. Remember this one as you start tuning.

Mike

 

More important, load the linkage just off-idle (from the primary accelerator link) before adjusting the lengths of the carb links.
This will ensure that all the deviation is eliminated in the collective ball links 'downstream'...

 

Search the Net long enough and you find a lot. Try this link for more facts http://deadlycurves.blogspot.com.au/2013/08/man-fre-vintage-install-instructions.html

 

I really appreciate your help guys. I have been buying old magazines and Hot Rod Fuel System books and searching the 'net, but the HAMB is always a great resource.