I posted a question on my painting at home in the driveway thread and got no answers so here's a new thread First of all what size of tip to use on an HVLP turbine powered gun to spray acrylic urethane single stage, and what speed of catalyst hardener works best with the HVLP turbine system ? Next, what kind of body block sanding blocks do most prefer ? There are a couple of interesting alternatives, the adjustable ones or the Dura blocks. http://www.eastwood.com/5pc-adjustable-flexible-sander-kit.html http://www.eastwood.com/7-piece-sanding-block-kit.html?reltype=2&parent_id=2628 Any feedback ? Larry
I use a 10" wood paint stick that I sanded all the sharp edges off and have blocked cars in primmer and finished paint coat straight for 25 years. I always check the stick before every use to make sure its still strait. The Dura Block far left is excellent for rounded and flat areas. A nice hard plastic sanding block with flat rubber bottom works great for sanding body filler and blocking first coat of primmer. I use a 1.3 tip on my Sata Jet NR95 HLVP when spraying single stage and HS Clears. As far as catalyst hardener goes, it all depends on over all paint jobs or small paint jobs, temperature, climate, humidity and.........It's best to ask your local paint rep and get a tech sheet on what your spraying.
I use a bunch of Durablocks along with a few wooden boards I've made up out of Maple which are like my Dads old homemade blocks used long before any spongie things were available. If I'm doing typical work I block with the Durablocks. For especially critical things I shoot the whole car with four or five coats of Slick Sand and block with the wooden boards, (which are just glorified paint sticks), and the finish is amazing. Also For the material your looking at I use 1.3 fluid tip and a No.3 air cap on my favorite Devilbis gun. That's on a regular HVLP with 22-24 lb. at the gun. I've never used a turbine but my feeling is the concept is probably pretty much the same. I know I'm looking for trouble here but the Devilbis gun shoots as well as any Sata or Iwata I've ever used and just "feels" right to me. On top of that, most of the components and assembly is done in the U.S.A. which makes it even better.
I use the Dura Blocks and they work great. I would get a hold of the gun manufacturer to find out about tip size recommendations as turbines do not all work the same as each other or traditional HVLP guns. As for the catalyst speed that is going to be determined by the ambient temperature. You will want to go with a slower catalyst than you normally would with a turbine due to the increased heat in the air used but in the end you need to know what temperature the room is that you are spraying in.
IMO it is always a good idea to have a variety of blocks. Dura-Blocks are nice. I also have a Motor Guard Wonder Block that is awesome! Motor Guard Soft Block has been handy for me as well. In some instances you just can't beat an old rubber sanding block though. I don't know who makes quality blocks of this type now though. The one I use is a 40 year old NAPA one I got from my Dad.(still had the label on it!)
I sold my Tip turbine sprayer because it wouldn't spray high build primer so I went to using my HVLP gun for everything. The turbine also took up floor space.
My TP turbine sprays high build primer just fine. I don't use anything special as far as paint/hardeners go.
You can roll up a magazine to make radius type block taped up with masking tape and you can make them in any size and shape you are tryin to achieve also the tube in a roll of masking paper with self sticking paper worx good also.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Self sticking sand paper, I need to try and clarify things when I type them not like you are standing next to me ,sorry.... Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Jeff Lilly's Restorations has an excellent tutorial on sanding blocks. Check it out: http://www.jefflilly.com/fabrication/block-sanding/
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