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Customs No Spark on 52 Buick Straight 8

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by jmillsUT28, Aug 20, 2014.

  1. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Hey guys having a hard time getting this straight 8 to start. Everything is free and the starter turns over the engine fine. Turns it slow but it's still a 6V.

    I can not get a spark. I have placed the coil, points, condenser, wires, plugs, rotor, distributor cap and plug wires.

    I have power to the coil but no spark. Help me out. What should I check next?
     
  2. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Oh and I have the points set at .015 per the manual.
     
  3. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,257

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Well, you've replaced pretty much the entire ignition system. If you have a test light, or a voltmeter, connect it to the "points" side of the coil, and crank the engine, The light should flash or the meter deflect as the points open and close. If there is no flashing/meter deflection, your points need to be cleaned, readjusted, or the ground strap in the distributor that goes from the breaker plate to the body of the distributor may be broken. Not an uncommon problem. Also make sure the body of the distributor has a good ground. The distributor usually has a pretty decent ground just from the hold-down clamp and other metal-to-metal contact with the engine block, but stranger things have happened.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2014
  4. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    It could be as simple as some dirt/contamination on the contact points. With the points closed, insert a piece of heavy paper (like a business card) and withdraw it. That will usually clean the points.

    When replacing the points/condenser etc., you have to be careful to insure the parts are correctly connected and grounded parts are grounded and insulated parts remain insulated.
     

  5. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Thanks guys, it has to be something simple as I have replaced almost everything! ha Will try what you said and get back t you.
     
  6. creepjohnny
    Joined: Dec 1, 2007
    Posts: 909

    creepjohnny
    Member

    power to the coil.. did u check spark out of the coil? I've replaced coils and had to replace again. sometimes you get a dud. exterior ballast coil I take it?

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  7. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Whats the best way to check park out of the coil? Use a test light at the end of the wire that goes to the center of the distributor?
     
  8. creepjohnny
    Joined: Dec 1, 2007
    Posts: 909

    creepjohnny
    Member

    pull the coil wire out of the center of the distributer and hold it near a bolt head on the head or near the top of the spark plug and crank the motor. if u see a spark and hear it snapping u have spark. if not then u need another coil.

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  9. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,290

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    I would take the advice and put the test light on the points side of the coil and see if it flashes when cranking the engine. If not, then check points, condenser, and the pesky small ground strap inside the disty that grounds the breaker plate.
     
  10. LONG
    Joined: Aug 20, 2011
    Posts: 292

    LONG
    Member

    does your coil have internal or external resister?
     
  11. Arthur1958
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 230

    Arthur1958
    Member

    Double check that the wires into and out of the coil are not reversed. That is easy to do, especially if they are marked + and - instead of BAT and DIST. Wired backwards they will produce a weak spark.
     
  12. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    I know for sure that I have the hot wire from the ignition switch going to the + terminal on the coil. This is correct right?
     
  13. greaseyknight
    Joined: Sep 27, 2010
    Posts: 225

    greaseyknight
    Member
    from Burley WA

    Is it positive or negative ground? IIRC on a positive ground 6v car the coil is wired backwards to a normal 12v car. I don't think that you will need a ballast resistor for that system. Make sure your getting a full 6v to power (negative in this case) side of the coil.
     
  14. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Well the 6v battery has a power wire going from the + of the battery to the starter. So that should mean I should have power coming from the switch to the + side of the coil. If I am wrong let me know.

    I tried pulling the coil wire off of the distributor and touching it to the head to get a spark. I had no spark.
     
  15. Arthur1958
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 230

    Arthur1958
    Member

    I believe it goes the other way.
     
  16. Hnstray
    Joined: Aug 23, 2009
    Posts: 12,355

    Hnstray
    ALLIANCE MEMBER
    from Quincy, IL

    That Buick was originally Negative Ground.....should still be.

    Ray
     
  17. Arthur1958
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 230

    Arthur1958
    Member

    But the coil is not grounded. + goes to the distributor and - goes to the switch.
     
  18. Arthur1958
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 230

    Arthur1958
    Member

    No, I think you are right. I have been working on positive ground systems too long.
     
  19. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Ok so the way I have the coil is correct right? Positive on coil gets its power from the switch.
     
  20. Arthur1958
    Joined: Jun 29, 2009
    Posts: 230

    Arthur1958
    Member

    Yes. With your negative-ground system that is right. ... Someone already suggested the coil could be defective; I have encountered defective condensers more often. If you don't have extra new components, try the old ones.
     
  21. Ebbsspeed
    Joined: Nov 11, 2005
    Posts: 6,257

    Ebbsspeed
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Yes, positive terminal on the coil goes to the switch, negative to the points. And for those of you questioning the ballast resistor, there is none in a 6-volt system. If you happened to get a new coil with an internal ballast resistor, that would cause a weak spark, as ballasts are normally just used on 12 volt systems.

    Creepjohnny is assuming that your distributor ground, points, condenser and wiring are all correct when he describes the coil test. It's much more likely that one of the previously mentioned items is at fault.
     
    Last edited: Aug 21, 2014
  22. creepjohnny
    Joined: Dec 1, 2007
    Posts: 909

    creepjohnny
    Member

    fixed?

    Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
     
  23. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Just now had time to work on it. I decided to take the points and condenser out and clean up the points plate as it was really dirty. Here is a pic of the distributor before I replaced anything.

    No there looked to be a riveted piece that was broken. Not sure what it went to and could not find anything about it in the manual. I circled what I am talking about. Looks like it might had just been a wire clamp to hold the connector lead wire.

    I had to replace the connector lead wire and the ground lead wire.
     

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  24. jmillsUT28
    Joined: Jul 21, 2009
    Posts: 101

    jmillsUT28
    Member
    from TN

    Update, I took everything apart and cleaned all connections. Turned it over and we have spark!

    Thanks for your help guys.

    Now, I'm going to power up the electric fuel pumps and get some gas to the carb.
     

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