Using 1935 through 1940 Ford frame, what would be some options building a front traditional suspension with '37- '40 spindles, '40 backing plates. I know 1937 through 1940 I-beam is top of the list, but are their other alternative suspensions, years of I-beams and springs that could be used on that frame, like 1928-1934, 1932-'36, or 1947 have been used in the past? Just weighing my options before buying the used parts, and did find a complete 1947 ford front suspension assy. for cheap. The goal is to lower it and no fenders.
Here's a pretty good recipe for a lowered traditional fat-fendered hot rod: -Dropped stock axle. -Stock (or aftermarket) front & rear springs, but with the eyes reversed on the main leafs to lower about 1-2". -Stock ('37-'41"round-back" or '42-'48 "square-back") spindles with new bushings. Heat and bend the arms to clear the wishbone. -Split wishbone (optional, but usually done to simplify engine & transmission swaps). -Rubber rake: bigger tires in back (usually 7.00" or 7.50"x16") and smaller tires in front (4.50" or 5.00x16"). -Juice brakes. And for God's sake, LEAVE THE FENDERS ON.
Are you up for changing and or moving the front crossmember? If you are then you are opening the door to any of the parts combos. The 40 frame has a pretty deep fromt cross member that's set up for a spring in front axle. You could swap in a 32 or model A or flat crossmember and get things pretty low in a hurry. Mind the frame sweep though .
The setup will be with a '49 flathead. I am open to changing the front cross member. This is for the '37 Truck roadster build I'm doing. No fenders is the way I want to go. What selection of I-beams and springs years can be used for this frame with or without standard front cross members? I plan on 4 I-beam drop and reversed eyelets
The front crossmember can't be flattened in a 35-40 frame unless it is moved forward since the engine is over it. Posted using the full custom intergalactic nano wavelink.
Pretty much, In your minds eye picture the stock spring in front set up and then move the flatter crossmember forward to over the axle, that maintains your stock wheel base. It's also probably going to look better with a narrower (46") axle without the fenders & especially if you run certain brake combos that add 3" or more to the track width. You can narrow a ford axle or call 1800hotrods and get an after market. Changing the crossmember will probably need a different radiator too.
When going fenderless the Stock wheelbase can go out the window. Then look into mounting the spring behind the Axle, Tube crossmember and a perch pad. Lop off the frame horns. Now your Low and no oil pan issues. Just food for thought. The Wizzard
There's your basic stock front end for 35-40 this is a 37 specifically. This axle has a wide spring perch holes and narrow king pins when compared to earlier axles. Sounds like you could keep the wishbones together and no real need to split them. They need split for clearance using later engines. When you split them you wind up with clearance issues at the tires and increase turning radius tighter limits, you'll also need to bend the hangers so they stay in original spot to catch the spring. What exactly is the goal here? One might need to change because the parts on the shelf are what's being used, or things don't fit, or ride height doesn't work, big channel doesn't line up with grille, and a few other biggies. Since you'll be a fender less truck, you can slide the body up or back so everything fits, play with the body mount holes or brackets. You already have the firewall done iirc. Just Gary posted some good stuff. Reversing the eyes is easy and you can do that in about 15 mins with a press. (Few techs here about that). about 2 hours total job to get the spring out/reversed/ cut second leaf, rebuild the spring pack and re install it. More time of course if you want to polish or paint the springs.
What exactly is the goal here? I only have '40 Ford backing plates on the shelf, just weighing my options on what year suspension parts can be used before I hit the swap meets, and wanted to hear from others the options that can be used. The goal is to get it low and proportioned with a real nice hot rod stance.
31Vicky makes a good point. It's very difficult for us to give info or advice on how to attain your goal...until you show us what your goal is. "The goal is to get it low and proportioned with a real nice hot rod stance" is very vague. Perhaps an example photo or two...?
Well, this is the look I'm after without Z-ing it. just wanted to know of other options than just 37-40 suspension parts. What else could work to achieve this look and be traditional.
If you can fabricate, you could get the stance of that red truck with most any 28-40 axle that's been dropped, some split wishbones, and a reversed-eye spring. The key is how you custom-build your new front crossmember. Cause that's what you are going to have to do.
Gotcha, you gave me a year to work with 28-40 with modification to the front cross member. My concern was what year and length to work with, 46"-48" king pin to pin sounds like the tolerances to go with, correct. I can fabricate, no problem to answer the question above.
Would you say those frame horns are about 9" off the ground? And where are the radius rods or wishbones? Any way if they are about 9" that's pretty easy to do with just about anything you can find a deal on at swap meets. A dropped axle with spring over mount will fit easily in there. On a side note, that's about a 4" -5" channel on that one, to get the cowl lined up with the top of the grill , there's some business going on below the frame under the grill there. That's either the radiator dropped below the frame or a mustang 2 crossmember. And the grill chin is gonna get scarred and bruised being that low.
28-36 will have 50 1/2" Kp to king pin with 36-1/2" spring perch 37 tube v8 60 will have 48.5 Kp and 38.5 spring perch 37-41 will have 48.5 Kp 38.5 spring perch 46-48 will have 50.75 Kp and 41 spring perch. Super bell is 46" Kp Chassis engineering is 47" Kp and both are already dropped. There's a few more but I don't know their specs magnum lucky 7 and such
I have been involved in fenderless '35-'37 Fords a couple times over, and one of the things I can add is like Pist-n-broke said, the stock wheelbase can go out the window. A s a matter of fact, it SHOULD go out the window. When you take the front sheetmetal off of a '35-'37 Ford Anything, the nose sticks way far out ahead of the axle centerline and makes the whole thing look nose heavy. I would handle this this way. Get your cab mocked up, grab an early Ford dropped axle and what ever locating devices you wish, (I'd default to '35-'41 wishbones personally) Drop the cab and front sheet metal on to the frame, the set the frame's front cross member on the front axle with the wheels and tires you intend to run, and step back 50' and look. By moving the axle centerline that 4 or 5 inches forward, that Nose heavy look should go away. It has on the others I have played with. If you aren't happy, move the axle out ahead of the cross member and step back 50' again and see. One of these two positions should look loads better that the original. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THE PROCESS!!! Once you have determined where to put things, then look at a Model "A" type cross member, '28-'34 type spring and perches to compliment the axle you are using. The idea is to bring the front axle centerline under the center to the peak of the grill shell.
Ya, that's a locally built truck by Hot Rods By Dean here in Phoenix. I believe that Dean his crew did the same thing I was talking about with the front, as it is spring over if memory serves correctly, then I also believe the rear section is shortened a bit as well to balance it out. I do know the bed sides are custom to this truck, as I know the metal guy that made them. The cab has been channeled as well, quite a bit, and I recommend that and any major body mods be taken care of before the step back and look process as well.
I'll bet you that frame is Z ed in the cowl and at the rear. If not, that thing is really really channeled deep and suitable for 5' tall drivers only. Here's a 36 cab sitting on the frame with no extra channel, note where the rockers intersect my 32" tall tire. (Never mind the quarters ) Now compare that to the red truck - waaaay deep. The axle is a 4" drop supper bell with a model a crossmember frame and body line are at 4* rake.
The Jalopy Journal
