I have a Ford 9-inch differential housing from a '57 Ranchero and a Ford 9 3/8-inch carrier (aka 3rd member). I've notched the housing to get the carrier in and I'm putting it back together now. I didn't even question the need for a gasket - I was going to use one. However, several people have told me that gaskets can actually be a cause of leakage and that I should use "The Right Stuff" to make a seal and no gasket Can anyone chime in on the need for a gasket when mating a carrier to the axle housing?
I have seen it done both ways and not leak. I use a gasket on the 9 inch in my falcon and it has never leaked.
Gaskets are nice when you go to disassemble. Most of the leakage trouble with OEM Ford housing is the studs not being well sealed in the housing. Copper washers on the nuts helps. Hylomar also helps in this vicinity
I've had luck with no gasket and black sealant on an Eaton (drop out punkin). Posted using my chicken and 2 cigs
I just use the Right Stuff any more and forget the gasket altogether. I also use the copper washers I bought at Summit and let some Right Stuff ooze out of each of the 10 studs before I put the washers and nuts on. Don
If I plan to not swap gears any time, I use the washers under the Stover lock nuts, and a gasket with gasket sealer (not rtv). If it's one I'm going to swap ratios or something, I use sealer between the gasket and housing, and maybe grease between the gasket and pumpkin, and use normal non-lock nuts and no washers under them. I never did get the hang of using spray can gaskets. I guess I'm too old fashioned.
Gasket thickness can be critical when sealing parts that relate to alignment, such as the axles and differential on a removable carrier rear end, like a 9". I think it's always better using a gasket, imo.
My dad has been a mechanic at Ford for over 35 years and he only uses black silicone. Never had a problem with leaks.
^^^^^^This^^^^^^ Sealing potential leaks is not the whole story. The depth of the differential carrier affects toe-in/toe out of the rear wheels because the inner axle ends move fore or aft with carrier. Now, that is mostly theoretical as few axle housings are so perfectly machined and aligned that, with or without the gasket, it probably won't matter. But there is a mechanical relationship there, nonetheless.
I have a gasket only, and my 9" seeps all the time. I'd suggest a gasket and some sort of sealer to take up the irregularities in the housing. Just my 2 cents. I am dreading taking the rear end apart just to get it sealed up. VR&C.
I know that you can not even buy a gasket for many later model differentials, but I would still use a gasket on a 9 inch.
The riht stuff is a bear to clean off later. I always used gaskets on 8 and 9 inch Ford rears, If the surfaces are clean they won't leak. Always use new brass washers under the hold down n uts
In my experience the silicone sealant works just as well as the gasket.I never did like the copper washers.I think there is enough play in the side gears and flex in the housing to make up for any suspected axle alignment some of you might consider . I've been building gears for money for 35 years.I have never had a come back because I used silicone.
I've gone through 5 or 6 ford 9" rears and the first time I did I used the gasket. It leaked big time! Ever since then I've used only black permatex rtv. That's all I will ever use. Seals like a champ! But it's always best to put the carrier in, finer tighten the nuts, the. Wait and hour or 2 then tighten the nuts to desired spec. Plus I always wait 24 hours after that to add fluid. Gives the silicone time to harden and create the seal. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Like Squirrel says...gasket sealer on one side of the gasket and grease on the other if you plan on swapping gears. Gasket sealer on both sides if not. No RTV. Also use new copper washers. Did a bunch of them that way back in my dirt track days. Never leaked a drop.
Just had my '57- 9" rebuilt by a very reputable shop. Was told to reassemble with a black sealer they gave me. They recommended no gasket. Thin bead (1/8") of sealer, wait 20 minutes, assemble and torque. Had no leaks. For what it's worth....
Bump because I'm about to bench press mine back in. Was thinking more about misalignment than leakage. Sounds like it's not a big concern.
If it leaks, it still has oil in it..... Mine has a drip; I keep an eye on the fluid level from time to time. Fairly certain it is the seal at the yoke though. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
I bought one of those transmission adapters that mount to a floor jack and then cut a propane tank holding fixture from a forklift down and bolted it to the top of the fixture ( picture a large half circle ) works great for fitting diffs , drive units electric motors etc. Just about anything that’s odd semi circle shaped. and as far as gaskets go, “ The Right Stuff” is incredible at sealing. 100 times better then regular RTV , but just a little dab will do ya !! It does not need to be glooped on like rtv.
RTV is probably as good as the gasket without sealant, maybe better, if carefully done. Agree, get new copper washers every time. "Right Stuff" is great as a sealant, but a nightmare to break loose for removal without damage to the mating part(s). You take apart a few things that were assembled with RS and you'll forget about using it again if you figger there may be a time when you want to separate those parts.
Copper washers...what's the deal? The other day it took me all of 5 minutes to remove the nuts, with no air tools... and another half an hour peeling, prying, unscrewing those damn copper washers. No place else needs 'em..
They deform and help seal the threads. This really is one of those timeless topics and a great refresher. Right stuff is good but can be overkill. And not just any old silicone should be used. One of the best is Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker. I learned this one from an old SR71 tech
I've been wondering about that. Can they really deform all the way into the root of threads? I thought maybe to seal the housing face to the nuts. In either case, no washers on removable covers, the transfer case on my 4x4, tranny pans... If you use liquid sealer and it gets around the threads, maybe that's good enough. A leftover from the gasket/no sealer days?
I use regular flat washers under the nuts. I use permatex anaerobic sealer on the threads and then put the nuts on. I use a gasket on the 3rd member, spray on high tack as gasket sealer. I do not tolerate leaking fluids from anything I build for me or anyone else.
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