Okay guys here's the deal. About a year ago I swapped out the old fruit jar M/C on my '66 F-100 for a '68 Mustang non-power disc drum M/C but now its sticking, probably from not driving the truck enough. Anyway, I called the parts store and they're not showing that M/C anymore. All they are showing is 68 Mustang with power disc/drum or non-power drum drum. Would either of those work or do I need to keep looking for a '68 Mustang with non-power disc drum?
I appreciate your reply but thats not what I asked. However, does anyone know if they made or make a 67 F100 M/C that is non-power disc drum?
Yes its got a MII front end with manual disc on the front and drums in the rear. I checked Oreilly's and several of the Mustang specialty vendors and nothing yet. We dont have a NAPA store that I'm aware of here in town.
Why don't you rebuild the old one? You could use it until such time as the replacement could be tracked down, shot and skinned.
You can use the power disc/drum master. The only differences between the power and non-power is a deeper push rod counter bore and possibly no boot retainer groove on the casting of the power master. Are you sure the master is "sticking", or could it be a linkage problem, and/or lack of a pedal return spring?
I'd want more clarity on the 'sticking' before I replaced any parts. Are you sure you have mechanical parts 'sticking' and not too much residual pressure? What are the symptoms… do the brakes stop and then not release when you let go the pedal? What else does it do/not do?
Its got plenty of free travel, probably 3/8ths of an inch and a good return spring. You can jack up the front end, apply the brakes and you can barely spin the wheels, takes two hands and some grunting. Crack the line at the M/C and the wheels spin with one hand as they should. You can also crack the bleeder and get the same results. And you can take a hammer and smack the M/C and it will also relase the brakes but not to the degree that cracking the line does.
Okay here's an update on the sticking calipers issue I've been having. Took the M/C off and pulled the piston out and didn't really find anything. There was a wee bit of light rust right below where the snap ring goes so I took some emery and removed it and got it back together and it seems to be working fine. Got it back on the truck and still doing the same thing. Pulled the calipers and everything there looked good. However, while working on the M/C, I noticed that both bowls are the same size which would indicate a drum/drum M/C. When I bought the M/C I "thought" I was getting a M/C for a 68 Mustang with disc/drums and non power. I should've paid closer attention. My guess is that the M/C that I have will not work with front disc brakes.
jseery is right - info from allfordmustangs.com=drum brakes MC has a residual check-valve in the port that leaves a little pressure on the drum brakes so that the return springs don't pull the shoes away from the drums. disc don't need this - brakes will drag a bit if the residual pressure is there. rockauto.com, and others seem to offer MC that you need.
Can you remove the internal drum residual valve and replace with the correct one inline? I think 10 lb. vs 2 lb. http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...13+1147708&searchTerm=residual+pressure+valve
How about this one. http://www.bendixcatalog.com/mobilebeta/PartDetail.aspx?PartNumber=11485&PartType=Master Cylinder
So I got a different M/C the other day and was going to bench bleed it and it didn't come with any tubing but instead came with plastic plugs and a instruction sheet that stated this was a new and improved way to bleed the M/C. Suppose to screw the plugs into the M/C and then fill the reservior half full and stroke the piston one half to one inch until you feel stiff resistance and the piston can only be stroked an 1/8 inch or so. Does this actually work as well as using the old fashioned method of using the tubes or not.? I dont have air bubbles anymore but I can definately stroke it more then 1/8 inch.
That's what she said... When I bench bleed a master, I just hold it in a vise and hold 2 fingers over the ports. Work the rod in & out until no more bubbles and call it done.
One thing it had in bold letters was to never stroke it more then one inch. Is this for safety/liability issues with people getting sprayed with brake fluid maybe?
Okay I got the new M/C installed and bled and have a pretty good pedal, real good after one pump, and no leaks in the fittings. BUT the dadgummed cap is leaking around the top. I noticed it was a wee bit pitted but decided to go with it as is but I should've taken some 100 grit and turned it upside down and done a surface job on it. Too late now with the fluid in the thing, might dry it off good and mix up some JB Weld and smooth it out that way. Brakes work good, no more drag and it stops nice and straight.
Tried the JB weld along the top ridge of the bowls but it still leaks. Might have to pull it back off, suck the fluid out and then turn it upside down and "surface" it on some 1oo grit till I get 'er smooth.
Okay well I went ahead and pulled the M/C back off and ordered a new one instead of a rebuilt one like I had. Should be here tomorrow afternoon. I was going to try to surface the lid area myself but I was also having some leaks around the fittings that screw into the body and they were as tight as they could go so instead of screwing with it and it probably always leaking a little, I'll try my luck with a new one.
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