Projects Where to begin?? 41 Chevrolet Special deluxe

So a 41 chevy special deluxe stumbled into my lap recently and I'm looking to the forum for some help... I don't know much about the vehicle, the previous owner had passed away a few years ago... The car was in a garage at a yard sale I attended with no anticipation of selling... I asked if I could look at it and the son of the owner allowed me to. I looked it over for about 15 min and asked if his mother had any interest in selling the car... To make a long story short, the car is now in my possession. The car appears to be rather complete to me. The car didn't have a battery installed, so I mainly purchased it with he worse case being that I at the very least have a solid roller/blank canvas. The glovebox was loaded with most recent 2011 registration and dating back to 1990. Basically I'm wondering where to begin, should I just go pop a battery in it and attempt to fire it up? I spun the motor over by hand and it moves freely and feels like it has good compression. I know nothing about these cars, or older cars for the matter... I know nothing about the 3 speed transmissions, what the shift pattern is etc... Is there reverse? All the buttons on the dash? What do they do? Sorry I'm such a noob, but I have to start somewhere and I don't know anyone that's into older cars like this. Here are some pictures of how the car currently sits. Please let me know if you want some more info. I had another screen name, I forgot the password and don't have access to the email address I had connected it to so I must start over in noob status. If someone has some links that could potentially educate me a bit on these cars, that would be great!

I don't think the link below works... I'll fix it when I'm on my PC, iPhones are apparently too smart to upload pictures to this site.



http://s63.photobucket.com/user/chopsonu/library/Mobile Uploads/2014-06

 

first off go to introduction and give some low down on you. city state where you live might be a club or a hamber near by that can come over and give you some advice or a hand. second read every thing you can on the posts and tech. 3 spd is basic H pattern from neutral over and down 1st up over and up 2nd straight down 3rd straight up from first is reverse. i havent seen a chev dash but aint a whole lot there in old cars. lights wipers maybe a cigar lighter if its a deluxe heater blower. lol

 

after intro post some pics to get more help.

 

I made a thread in the introduction area. I added pictures to that thread, I'll add some to this one when I get back on my computer. Posting from my phone sucks, but it's all I have while in the hospital. Other link is found here:

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/nh-noob-with-41-chevy.934208/

 

Nice looking car and looks to be well cared for. It may not take much to get running. The master cylinder is below the floor on the driver's side. Check for the level of the brake fluid and fill it up if needed. Throw in a battery and see if you have spark at the spark plugs. Once you have that, see if you have gas at the carb and if it is reasonably fresh. If so, it should run. If you are not real handy on the mechanical end, find a friend or neighbor to help you along.
By the way, the starter is engaged with a foot switch on the transmission cover as I remember.

Neal

 

Thanks for the replies, I work on/build custom Harley's for a living as well as work on all sorts of vehicles. Just never touched anything quite this old before. It actually as a clear inline filter on it currently, I tried uploading a picture of the engine bay but it said the file was too large. I'll check on the brake fluid, thanks for letting know the location to do so. Brakes feel good actually, the car appears to be very well cared for... The owner had 5 other pre 50s cars in the garage next to this one, all registered and all complete in condition like this one. A part of me thinks that I'm going to put a battery in it and it's going to fire right up. I'm in the hospital right now, due to a bad infection on my hand... Not what I wanted to do today, seeing I just got the car in my garage yesterday.... So I'm trying to pass some time on the forum and gain some info so I can start when I get out of here. Thanks for all the replies so far and the links!

Guess the picture worked this time... I don't think that you can see the fuel filter in the pic, it is there though and I didn't notice anything funky inside it. Everything on the car looks super clean. Exhaust and brake lines all looked brand new under it and there was minimal rust, no rot that I've found and I poked around pretty well last night. All in all I think I have a good canvas to get my foot in the door.

 

The usual shift pattern was like an H. Reverse was at upper left (toward the driver), low gear was at lower left, second gear was at upper right (toward the windshield), high gear was at lower right, and neutral was in the middle.

You might find some useful information at the Chevy 216 sub-forum linked in my signature.

 

Thanks for the info, a friend of mine mentioned something in the regards of using lead fuel additive... Is this something I should do?

 

Lead penetrates and accumulates in the metal over time. Unless it were a super low mileage motor, I wouldn't be concerned (JMO). Sustained high speed driving is not recommended for these motors, anyway. Any rebuild should include hardened valve seats.

The cylinder heads are prone to cracks from overheating, however.

 

Well I poured some gas in the carb tonight and heard the motor run for a few seconds... The tank was completely bone dry, so rather then put gas in, I just pulled the air cleaner. Fired right up effortlessly and sounded strong. Is there anything I need to do to get the fuel flowing to the motor after I put gas in it? I know some of these might stupid questions, but I'd rather learn from others than doing things the wrong way. What's the story with radio and windsheild wipers? I can't seem to figure out how either works. Headlights, high beams and plate lights work, other lighting not so much. Any horn in these cars? I see 2 canister type things behind the grill, what are those. Also there is a T and a C pull knob, I assume C is choke... What about the T?? Throttle related?

Thanks for all the replies this far, just want to get everything up and running properly, then I can start with some fun stuff.

By the way, I am pretty mechanically inclined, I would just rather figure things out from those have already done them before. I don't have much spare time on my hands, I'm a stay at home dad of 2 kinds under 4 (4 and 2 actually). So every moment I can save from others advice is much appreciated.

 

It may have vacuum assisted shift. Real smooth when it works, a bear to shift when it doesn't. The wipers will be vacuum as well. The 216 only has pressurized mains, the rods are dippers. These engines don't like sustained high rpms, but are very dependable. Not happy above 65, but will do 80 for awhile. Rear end gears are pretty low. As said, they are 6 volts. Nothing wrong with that. Make sure you have good grounds, and the 6 volt will do you right. Fuel pump might need to be replaced, and I would drop and clean the gas tank. It has a drain plug, so that may help you figure out if the tank needs to be flushed. Pretty simple car, you should have more than enough sense to figure it out. Brakes will need to be looked at, and are adequate, but not powerful. Watch out and drive defensively. Neat little car, have fun.

 

Have the same car and engine it's a 216 has about 80hp on a good day. If and when you drive on highway don't pound it for long times. The lower end oil is not force fed. This car also has knee shocks if you get real hard pounding when it hits bumps your shocks could need rebuilding but I would seeif they need oil.

 

I stand corrected mains are force oiled and the top is drip style.

 

I actually looked in the box of paperwork that was given to me and there appears to be a brand new condition owners manual in there. Not sure if they remade them or something, this looks brand new and there was also a brochure for all the models inside the bag as well.

I'm actually looking for options to lower the car, I was on chassis engineering site the other day... Looking into what my options are as far as suspension mods without doing air ride.... Also don't plan on many highway cruises, just looking to put around town for the time being.

 

Use SAE 20 or 30 non detergent if you can find it. You might want to mix some SAE 10 with it being in the winter. If it has never had detergent oil, using a new multi grade detergent oil may turn loose a bunch of junk in the engine as the detergent oil tries to clean it. If there is evidence like 10-30 cans in the trunk or if the engine is very clean inside , you may be OK.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/search/Conventional+-+Non-Detergent/N0427/C0162.oap

Those were low compression engines and I'm not convinced you need hardened seats. Now if it needs cleaning up some or a home lap job I would not worry about it. If it needs building, might as well add hardened seats. If it's fine right now all should be fine.

216s are great running engines and they can go stop and go all day long. These cars love 45 mph and can get up there real quick. As said they can do short bursts at interstate speed from time to time but running 70-80 mph for a sustained length of time will likely result in a thrown rod.

You can actually hop that motor up but keep in mind it's era and limitations.
http://www.barnesandnoble.com/w/che...nual-bill-fisher/1118477752?ean=9781931128056

 

I recently acquired a 1941 Chev 2-door. It is also all stock, and is going to stay that way. The only change I made was to lower it. I removed the front springs and cut 1 1/2 coils off. I used 3" lowering blocks in the rear. Before & after pictures attached. Bob

 

Beautiful car! Is it possible for me to go lower than that without notching rear/going full bag set up?? The first mod I want to do after it's up and running correctly is lower it as much as possible.

 

Ran into problem #1 if we shall number them... I have a piece on the carb that is cracked causing fuel to leak... Here is a picture of said cracked piece, does anyone know of a source to purchase this piece? It's cracked where the fuel line threads in, in case the picture isn't clear.

 

It's best if you get another carb. You can find used ones on EBay and places like "The Car and Truck shop of Orange" sells rebuilt ones. Assuming that your 41 has the OG 216, make certain that the carb you buy is for a 216 and not a 235. Another thing is that the carb does not have to be a Carter like you have right now. It could be a Carter, Rochester, Stromberg, Zenith, just as long it's for a 216.

 

I just rebuilt ours on a 36 Chevy Cabriolet. Only cause it all original. If that was mine I would look for a Rochester from one of the Carb Guys on this site. Yours probably has a worn throttle shaft and they are really getting old. The Rochester is almost a direct replacement, and in my experience a better carb.

 

I don't see the point in replacing the entire carb of it works as it should.... The inlet where fuel line connects to it I cracked, If someone had a carb for parts or they were available... Installing another would solve the problem. I don't minding dishing out cash, but
this seems like something that would be easily had/repaired.

 

Shop around for original carbs and swap the top.

There's always JB Weld and friends.

 

No, you don't have to replace the entire carb but if you want keep the one you have, you should rebuild it anyways because you can't just switch the tops without checking the condition of the replacement top. Plus, it should be cleaned and a new gasket should be installed, so the right thing to do is go thru the whole carb. But hey, it's your car, do as you wish.

 

Just a suggestion I have used a product called Marinetex you can get it a marine supply (boat yard ) I have used this on so many things and have great success. I would repair let it dry for a couple of days then retap inlet tread and you will be amazed.

 

Repaired the crack with jbweld and there is no leaking. That will do until I find a replacement top. There is no need to go through a carb that is functioning properly. I'm not a know it all by any means when it comes I these cars, but I do know carbs. I was told by some reliable sources that the jbweld will outlast the carb itself, so I'm good for now. Pulled the car outside tonight and washed it, still wet in the picture but boy what a difference. I'm going to ask the body shop that does all my work what I should use for wax or if I should at all. Here are some pictures, hope you enjoy. P.S. I didn't get to the tires yet didn't have Brillo pads or any cleaner. Tomorrow is another day!

 

Man, that car is a Creme Puff.

My advise...Find some beat up rusty piece of s#@t to customize and enjoy that one pretty much as is.

 

It has it's fair share of blemishes and some bubbling surface rust/possible rot starting in some very small areas... Of course the pictures can't see that. Honestly, I wouldn't do anything to extreme to this. Wheels/tires and lower it! This isn't my idea project, I'd actually like to trade it for something a bit newer and coupe. Something 50s-60s

 

Waxed, washed white walls and took for a cruise up the street from my house for a quick picture at sunset... Don't really have anything to compare it to driving wise, so I don't know if it drives decent or not haha. I know it's nothing like I have ever driven before....

 

Couple issues arose... Fuel gauge doesn't read correctly, oil pressure gauge not at all, the speedo was jumping around so crazy once I went over 25mph that the needle came right off.... :/

Can the speedo be removed from the dash and repaired?

I also can hear humming noise (sounds electrical) behind dash when driving over 25mph.

Also noticed some type of fluid on the drivers front wheel... I'm going to pull the front wheels off tomorrow and investigate. The car would sometimes pull to the left when braking.

Also seems to be extra play in the steering. I know these aren't tight like new vehicles, but this is sloppy enough that it's a hair away from being down right dangerous.

Is there a good place to buy or download a service manual for the car?? All the brake lines are new under the car and the brakes felt good yard driving, guess I jumped the gun with assuming they were fine.

Any advice or knowledge on any of these issues would be greatly appreciated.

I still think I got a good deal, just had my fingers crossed that with the amount of previous registrations that everything would be in working order. Oh well, just needs some tinkering. It will get there. Thanks

 

Sure could use some help here....