I was asked to relay this question from Spike The Hall Scott Motor Car, Truck & Engine Company No Spark From the Coils To The Distributors Everything is new, coils, points, condensers, caps and rotors, spark plugs and wires. Distributors have been rebuilt and are clean of all dirt and oils This was a dual ignition system, turned in to a single system (both sides fire) There are two dist. and two coils (one set each does 6 plugs on intake, 6 plugs in exhaust) From the positive battery I've run wires to the positive terminals on the coil (I get spark here) from the negative terminals on the coil I've run wires to the distributors,(no spark here) all connections are clean and tight, points are gapped correctly, as are the spark plugs. I've checked all the wires in the distributor for loose or bad connections, every thing looks in good shape, and does not appear to be grounding out. Battery is new and has more that enough cranking power, all connections to battery are good, negative to frame is good, both battery cables are new as are the ends and are "0" gauge. There is no spark at the center post on coil to distributor center post Man I'm stuck, I can't think of any thing else to check, I don't have a ohm meter Anybody have any suggestions besides shooting the engine ? Thanks, Spike Spike The Hall Scott Motor Car, Truck & Engine Company www.hallscottengines.com
Sounds like you are not making ground through you points You can make a jumper wire with a condensor attached and briefly touch it to ground to simulate points and see if you get spark
Over the years I have found if some tells me they rebuilt or had dizzy rebuilt,and have no spark,most of the time its that the job was done wrong when replacing were the coil wire stud goes in to the dizzy{ it is ground out right there,or there is no ground wire inside dizzy from outer case to point plate{advance type point plate move inside dizzy so must be ground by a wire,they don't ground through its movemint[slide or ballbearing well.
I agree. we had this '53 Pontiac that had the primary wire short, and it would never run after we replaced the wires. The insulator around that stud had charred, but still looked normal on casual observation. When measured it was nearly shorted to the case with only 120 ohms resistance. It should be nearly infinite to be a good insulator. An Ohm meter is $15 at Walmart. You probably got a $30,000 engine there. Why don't you own one?
Is it a 1096? Seriously, you need and ohm meter, and yes, make sure that the point plate is grounded. You can make a jumper wire, from coil -, to a good ground. With key on, and power to coil +, briefly touch the - jumper to ground. Releasing it from ground should produce spark at the coil. If it does, the issue is within/with the distributor Also, for ha-ha's, put a jumper cable negative from the distributor body, to the chassis. Don't shoot it. I know a guy that will buy it from you, and bring it back to Berkeley.
Problem solved. Spike will update this and let you know what it was. I don't know what Spike is rebuilding other than I believe it's 1925 Hall-Scott marine engine. http://hallscottengines.com/Home_Page.html
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