Anyone else ever had a problem burning these things out repeatedly? Man I'm on my third one in as many months and I'm tired of buying them! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I don't know what would cause that. I have them in 2 of my cars and have installed them in many others. Never had any issues with them. If I were to guess I'd be suspect of a bad ground. The Wizzard
After the last two dying I really took my time installing this one. Making sure it never grounds out where it shouldn't. It will work for a few weeks, and then just die-registering empty. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Does it matter that I've been getting them from Speedway? I've gotten a lot from them and never had a problem! Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Sounds like your only using it on the Fuel gauge. Again, I'd be suspect of a bad ground. Were it me, I'd add a seperate ground wire tank to body/chassis just to be sure. The Wizzard
But do you think a bad ground can actually burn the Runtz out? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
its a transistor so if its intermident yes it could .. and why buy them ?? the recipe for making them is in the archives , the parts are about 5 bucks .
Hey Greaser Bob, Here's the aforementioned thread, regarding making your own 12 to 6v regulators. I've made these and are using them in both of my '40 Fords. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-build-a-voltage-regulator-for-3.448589/ Some of the image links are broken, but I took some when I made my last batch, if you need some visuals. bret
What year and make of car is this installed on? What polarity do you have the 12v battery connected as, Negative ground? In some cases, the closer the gas gauge sending unit output gets to ground the more current flows through this Runtz reducer. Sure, the reducer should be current limited and short circuit proof, but that usually requires the tab or ground pin to be adequately fastened to some decent metal. Sounds like you are overheating the reducer due to no way of heat sinking the reducer.
I used a runtz found on Ebay for my 6V SW large logo gas gauge simplest thing I've ever done. I don't recall the wiring colors but it was just 12V in, ground wire and 6V out to the gauge. The large logo was important to me to get a complete set of large logos. It was so simple I was surprised that it worked but it did.
I'm with the "bad ground" guys; That will increase the current flow beyond the resistor's ability, and it burns out. It's little things like that, which produce big headaches. 4TTRUK
Bchrismer-that was a link covering radial/bias tires. Thanks anyway Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Bchrismer-that was a link covering radial/bias tires. Thanks anyway Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
I don't know why that posted twice! But this is on a '50 Chevy and neg ground. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
interesting. Dunno how that happened. When I clicked it, it took me to a thread about making voltage reducers. Try this link: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/how-to-build-a-voltage-regulator-for-3.448038/ Here's what they look like, when they are finished, and here's how they look on the back of my '40 Coupe's gauge panel.
I used them on my '47 Ford with no problems for years. I also added an extra ground wire for the gauges (from the housing to a clean dash bracket bolt) as they grounded through the housing to the dash and all was painted. I think CW Moss in Orange carries the Runtz reducers also.
Thanks fellas. Strange how it continues to come up a tires thread after repeatedly trying the link. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Not sure why you need to use transistors. You don't need to control the voltage that precise. Two equal value resistors connected in series is the easiest way. Tap in between the two to get 6v.
I used the LM7806, without a capacitor, on my 37 Chevy fuel gage and it works great. Cheap and easy and no problems.
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