The Jalopy Journal
I’ve been keeping my eyes open for one like this one collecting dust in Garlits’ Museum;)
I always liked the look of that one, a big reason I didn’t use the top tube on mine.
The original cars had .083 3” tubes which is like driveshaft tubing, and they bent. I used all .120 mild steel, I think it will hold up fine for...
It’s a 1940s to early 50s Ford three speed with open drive, I think these were basically F1 transmissions. This one will just use second and...
I built it to run events like Northeast Vintage Drags and for display. Not for serious racing.
I took some inspiration from the Chassis Research K-88 design but a little more updated. Like what I feel I would have built if I built a dragster...
[ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] Here’s a few more pics.
[ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] [ATTACH] A few build photos of what I’ve been putting together...
There are '57 265 and 283 blocks with the same casting number.
[ATTACH] I built this in 1970/71, raced it off and on till the late '70s. It later had 12 spoke Americans up front, gold and black paint,...
I'm in full agreement with what 440 says - I've even seen guys crank an engine with no wires on and keep pluggin' #1 wire into the cap till it...
Maybe retorque the heads, put sealer in it and worry about it when it starts leaking again.
It needs a lead filled rear crossmember and bumper.
Try www.dennis-carpenter.com
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