I'm looking for a 120v electric winch that has a hook for the anchor point (very similar to the anchor hook on a chain hoist). I can only find winches that are meant to be mounted to a trailer or bumper but I want to anchor the winch to an eye bolt in my garage floor only when needed then put back on the shelf. Something like this but something rated for a car. Harbor Freight doesn't seem to have one. http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...i_sku=147026&gclid=CJOY9ay_4bsCFUQ6Qgodj1wAfQ What other ideas do you guys have for winching dead cars into the garage?
I just moved a 5100 pound Caddy across our parking lot and into our shop with a simple comealong and lots of chain. I would winch it the 10 feet the comealong would do each time, shorten the chain up, pull out the cable on the comealong, and do it all over again. It was surprisingly easy and only took about 15 minutes to move it about 100 feet. I had some lead anchors in the floor for mounting things like tubing benders and I used one of those holes with a screw eye in it. It bent the screw eye, but it held. You can pick a comealong up at HF cheap, and if you don't have a lot of chain I imagine a strong rope would do. Just make sure someone is in the car to apply the brakes and steer in case it gets loose. Don Here is one like I used: http://www.harborfreight.com/8000-lb-cable-winch-puller-543.html
Come-a-long for the win!! Oh, and btw, buy yourself a 50' length of "hay rope" or a LONG "snatch and pull" nylon tow strap. pdq67
Warn makes a 115 volt winch with a 1000 lb pull rating they call it a PullsAll. I have one on my service truck and it works great. Think I paid $200.00 for it.
bolt the winch to a plate and weld or bolt a length of chain with a hook to the plate that can hook to your eye bolt.
i had a 3/4 nut welded to a tube , sank it in to the back concrete , floor of my garage , any time i wanted to pull someting in , a chain connected to a bolt , thread into floor...come along and youre ready for lunch.....
I sunk a piece of 2X2 square tubing at the back wall of my garage. I got a winch for nothing off of a guy who was scrapping a boat trailer. I made up a bracket so the winch set-up could be slid over the box tubing when I needed to use it. I used an old car battery for power. My driveway is very steep so when I have to do any real dirty work on a non-running vehicle I just use to winch set-up to send the vehicle out and reverse the polarity to drag it back in. works great and all made from free stuff. If you want some pictures let me know
I've got an old manual boat winch on it's pedestalwith a stout nylon rope, the pedestal hooks onto a bolt in the floor. No power needed other than one good arm (good exercise too!), I've pulled early Broncos, f100s and dragged snowmobiles across 20 ft of dry paved driveway and concrete floor. Simplicity and it works, no batteries no power cords!
You already found it. That Northern Tool unit has 1000lb capacity, way more than you need to pull a car on wheels, unless maybe your driveway is at a 45 degree slope. They actually show it pulling a big Ford pickup into a trailer. Remember, you're not lifting the car off the ground.
i have the 12volt winch which goes over a trailer hitch ball .i puta 3/4" anchor into thefloorinmy garageandwhen i need to pull my wagon intothe garage andits notrunning,i put a 3/4" x 4"bolt into the anchor hook the plate that goes over the trailer hitch ball around the bolt and hook up a battery or my battery charger and walla i pull the car up my inclined driveway . only problem is the cable is only 25 ft so as stated i have a tow strap i hook to the sway bar and begin to pull .around 1//2 way up the drive i chock the wheels and hook the winch cable directly to the car and finish the pull into the garage
...if you've got an anchor in the garage, just hook a pulley onto it and use a cable to pull the vehicle in with a truck or car that runs on the other end....don't need any winch.
My car trailer had a $49.99 ,2000 lb. Harbor Frieght ATV winch on it when I bought it. I figured it was a joke, untill I pulled a F-250 up the ramps and onto the trailer with it! A anchor in floor with a removalble eye bolt sounds like a great idea for a anchor point.
Putting a turning block on a floor anchor and you can use a trailer or front bumper mount winch with the cable running under the dead vehicle. Better mechanical advantage too. WARNING!!!! Be sure the anchor is secure and the cable is reasonably in good shape. It something lets go under load, it could be disastrous.
If anyone were going to be doing this alot, A winch mounted underneath a steel trap door in the floor or on top of the floor underneath a bench against the back wall would be a good idea.
The tube or pipe set in the floor to drop a post mounted winch in or the anchor bolt with a plate and chain to hook the winch to sound the most viable for most garages. A borrowed rotohammer and an anchor bolt costs little of nothing and a hand cranked boat winch or one of the HF winches doesn't cost much if you can't scrounge one. I've got one of those 50.00 2500 lb HF winches on my sailboat to raise the mast with and although noisy it makes a pain in the ass job an easy one man operation if you don't have a helper around. I can't see using a cable and pulley setup an another vehicle to pull a car in a garage as that just flat seems like a way for things to go wrong real quick. I do almost everything on my cars alone including moving them around the yard and up into the garage and that sounds like you would be getting in and out of the tow rig a dozen times to straighten up the rig you are moving.
The anchor would be mounted in shear so 2-3" would be plenty. I use a pulley and 100 ' cable hooked to my jeep, works excellent, use a wedge anchor they are plenty strong!
...how bout just pushin the project car into the garage with your shop truck?...you do have a shop truck don'tcha?...or just unload/winch it off the trailer into the shop.
I just got my Harbor Freight flyer in the mail, They have a lot of winches for sale - manual and electric. I am thinking about the $50 one on the back page after pushing my 51 Willys on the hoist last night. The HAMB logic at work. Bill
Most garage floors are at least 4 inches thick, I would think, and that is plenty. If you want to be really careful you might put a couple or maybe three 3/8" lead anchors in a pattern in the floor and make up a plate to bolt to that spot with lag bolts. Then you could weld a ring or eye to that plate and hook your winch to that. We have lead anchors in several places around our shop so we can install various pieces of equipment that we don't use often. When we are done using the tool we remove the lag bolts and put the tool aside till next time. It is amazing how strong those lead anchors bite into the concrete. Don Don
I would actually pop a hole in the floor with a sledge, take a posthole digger and dig a hole a few feet down, then sacrete a hitch receiver into the floor to use my electric winch. I haven't done that, so I use my lawn tractor with a tire on the front to push, lol. I have a received welded to my trailer and the winch bolted down to a plate I welded to an insert, so I don't have to leave the winch outside on the trailer.
...that receiver for your winch is a great idea; and I too have used my riding lawnmower many times to move project cars; for the stubborn ones I use my 50 Allis Chalmers WD with a loader/pushblade mounted.
I got tired of trying to push cars in with my back...especially since it is a little uphill...so I bought a cheap but handy 120v. Warn winch at Northern Tool. I made a plate that has an tie down eyelet I bought at Northern Tool also. I used a Hilti drill and adhesive to place two anchors into the concrete. The plate is loose so I can remove it by hand, no tools. The keyhole arrangement allows that to happen. I painted it orange so I wouldn't lose the freakin' thing so easy. The anchors are below the floor level so they don't pose any interference, and the holes can be easily filled if ever needed. The anchors are just two 1" diameter pieces of steel round stock with 1/2"-13 threaded holes. They are 5" long and I added a series of grooves to their OD to help the adhesive grab them. Made on a lathe. The floor is 6" thick concrete. Less than $200 total and that's cheaper than a vertebrae.
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