Another vote here for the L-79 Cam. I am running a 283 bored .60 over with this cam and ~9.5 compression. Also used 305 heads, Edelbrock Performer intake with a 550 cfm Edelbrock carb. Corvette 2 1/2" ram horns with full 2 1/2 exhaust and so on. Saginaw 4 speed with 3:11 first gear, and a 3.73 rear end. My car is a bit heavier than yours, but still has the spunk I wanted, and runs awesome..Nice idle, very responsive once you get to about 2700 rpms (hence the 3:11 first gear) and really fun to drive. I love running thru the gears with it ! Also get ~12 mpg if I drive it decently... While I do not claim to be an engine expert, my opinion is that you are way over carbed with that dual quad set up. My 550cfm does just fine.. And as always JMHO... (but to clarify, I am an old fart at 69 years old, so love re living the good old days with these older sbc engines)
They will work but would probably void the warranty' 430 spring rate vs 370 for the comp spring. http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/981-16/10002/-1
I've been toying with going single 4 barrel, I just know that the original higher HP 283's used dual qaud or fuel injection. Maybe I'll goe performer intake and 4 barrel
The red are HP, the dark red is the Comp , the light red is the other cam in the post, same for the green torque lines
I have a 283 .060 0ver Kith black flat tops and power pack heads, Had some work done to the ports but not much. Has A old holly in take and a 650 cfm holly with a Erson cam Grind 320-HLM with a .534 lift and 320 duration with solid lift and it runs strong with the five speed. So it's all in what you want but good luck with what ever you go with. I thing you have to notch the cylinder walls on a 283 to run 202 heads.
We are running a .060 over 283 with 2.02/1.6 valves and .424/.442 lift and they clear fine. I mocked it up with no head gaskets and it looked ok to at least .5 inch valve lift. They are probably not optimum as there is plenty of shrouding but they do fit.
If you have an issue with head chamber/cyl diam, put the bare block on an engine stand and bolt on a head. Flip it over and look up in the bore with a drop light. Lippy
Yep, that'll work if you want to see how the chamber looks relative to the bore but it won't tell you if the valves will clear the bore when they open as they get closer to the cylinder wall the more they open (as they are not 90 degrees to the bore). I checked it by pulling the valve springs off and putting clothes pegs on the valve stems to hold them up, then installed the head without a head gasket. Then gently push the valves open and measure how far they go until they touch the bore. In my case it was over half an inch and my cam has way less lift than that, so it was good to go. It won't tell you valve to piston clearance, so if you are worried about that you need to check it separately.
When I put my power pack 283 I installed a Duntov and it seemed a little disappointing in the torque dept. Purely out of boredom I tried the summit copy of the Crane 274h06. [email protected]. 4.50 lift and 106 lobe sep. I'd loved this cam in my 350, but was afraid it would be too much for the lil motor. if I recall it is close to the comp 268 but with the tighter line separation. This is my first time playing with cams, but it seemed to really wake up the bottom. Perfect cruiser cam, idles mean, good power from 25-4k. I was impressed.
I like the 097 or Elgin copy mentioned previously --have the Elgin version in my 57 283 Rochester injected BelAir--runs well and I love the sound of an old solid lifter 283-nothin like that sound to me--takes me back to the late 50's and sounds good at 6500 too
I tried that Crane grind in my 327 years ago, and then later in my 350. It ran 13.50s in both engines. I bet it cruises nice enough in a 283. As far as top end, I would think it is lacking in the same area as the 151 cam. probably cant spin the engine past 6000 or so. From my experience, when running a 283 down the track, it's not where it is, it's where it's going. If you shift it below 8000 rpm, it falls on its face in the next gear. I used to leave at 8500 off the rev limiter, and shift at 8000. 5.14 to 5.57 gears with a muncie 4 speed and a 45 lbs flywheel. 1.67 60 ft times.
It all depends on weight, carbs,gear ratio, compression, heads, so on. To little cam is always better than to much. For many years I have had good luck with the 327-350 cam for all around driving with a 4 speed 378 gear rear end.
Changed the compression to 9.5. I am running this sim with stock Power Packs, 1.94 intake. Here is the Comp vs the Summit 1785 described above.
I'm liking that, is that simulating a light port job or going crazy? I was planning on a light port and polish, doing it myself so I don't want crazy.
Looks like a winner to me, have any recommendations for a good combo for intake carb to compliment the pp and that cam?
If you have a set of 520-896 heads you will want to replace the exhaust seats and if you go to 1.94 valves and a mild porting you are starting to spend some money. I think 1.84 valves might make more sense, less bore shrouding. Figure out what you will have in money tied up in those heads, if it gets close to 1,000 (valves,springs, seals, retainers, locks, hardened seats, port work) the WP Torquer heads have the 426650-1 is a 58 cc head set up for hydraulic cams.
Down about 20 on top 10 @ 4000 (1.72). Now remember we are generalizing using published flow data from multiple sources. It gets murky back in the powerpack days so use this as a guide. Also the sim assumes you will have the distributor curved for best power and a good a/f curve around 12.5 to 1 at WOT. I am using .95 to lower the flywheel power because that has given me the best fit with all the Chevy published dyno sheets. So I think you can get near these numbers if everything is done well, bore seal, clearances etc. These are "ideal" simulations and are excellent for comparing different approaches. And yes on the hardened seats.
Yes, I realize its a perfect situation scenario, but it gives good comparisons, thanks. Any ideas for intake/carb?
Did you try #416 heads from a 305 ? I have a whopping $200.00 and about 3hrs my time into a set. But the Parts came from the gasket set, and cam kit, so it could run plus valve seals, springs and retainers & locks. Pretty sure these are the biggest bang for least bucks. You can get a little more bang over the 416 heads for a bunch of bucks.
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