bare bones hot rod wiring

Hi, new to this site.Been in rodding many years.Used to junkyard all my parts.What's cheap way to wire my NO FRILLS coupe?I'm just now taking out my old glass fuse box!(bus fuses). I 'd like to say I did it, not I bought an "I DIDIT" kit although they sure do look good. Thanks.

 

Depending on your interpretation of NO FRILLS for wiring systems, you should be able to reuse the Bus fuse panel if in good condition, buy a few rolls of wireing from your local parts supplier, some good connectors and you are on your way.
Parts stores also should be able to get new pigtail connectors for lights, new switches for lights, starter etc and a horn button.
If you are not running much if any accesories, just find an old shop manual for a car with the same polarity (IE 12v neg ground) and copy the wiring. You might use a 55-up Chevy manual or any other late 50s manual for most everything. The color of the wire makes no difference until you need to chase a bad wire-then it means everything.
Lights, horn, ignition, electric wipers, back up lamps, maybe a neutral safety switch, maybe electric fuel pump, are all super simple if broken down to basic component wiring.
Dash lights, run off the same circuit typically as the tail lamps back then, but then through a rheostat if you want them to dim
A voltage guage is super simple, just needs a 12v source usually with key on and a ground. Could be directly off ign switch, or from fuse panel.
Fuel guage needs two wires, one power, one to sending unit.
Just make sure everything has a GOOD, CLEAN ground. This will help keep everything happy and working much longer.

 

Id go with a low buck harness from speedway ….. I just used one in a OT project and can report it’s a very good deal.
The same as the high dollar stuff for a fraction of the price

 

DualQuad, I didn't even ask the question and I feel I need to thank you for the great answer. Well played, sir. That helped a lot of us.

 

A kit like the 9+3 circuit one from Rebel wiring is the best way to go. Far easier and not really that costly either.

 

Grab some spools of wire, some connectors, a roll of 3M Super 88 tape and have at it. I just finished mine the other day. Doubt I have $50 into it.

 

I'm working on the wiring for mine as we speak (1953 International body/1991 F350 IDI diesel engine and chassis) and am finding most of the system can be broken down into individual assemblies thus simplifying everything. What I am using is the original F350 wiring harness, cutting out any non essential parts and making up circuits as required. I'm using the '53 dash components including ignition switch so it will look like it left the factory like this.

 

9+3 from rebel wiring

 

Buy a quality wire crimper.

 

Rebel wiring harness!!! Best thing since sliced bread!!!!

 

2nd that rebel wiring great get the 8 circuit they are a vender on here will treat you right used 4 of them so far no issues

 

^^^ what they said! not from scratch but very affordable, reliable, everything is of good quality and marked great, good instructions, nuthin but good things to say about the rebel kit! and being there a hamb vendor that is also good!

 

You can buy a small blade type fuse panel for a few bucks at a NAPA store, then work one circuit at a time. I wired my old model A without a kit, and it worked fine. Much cheaper then even the bare bones kits.

 

Buy a couple of modern fuse blocks from your parts store they have 6 fuse panels for about $9.95 each plus tax. Then get a bunch of 14 gauge wire in various colors and a bit of 10 gauge and have at it. You will not save a lot but then knowledge is PRICELESS.

 

Dual Quad gave you good info. In 1966 there were NO AFTERMARKET Wiring harnesses available.
To re-wire my 39 Chevy I used a 55 Chevy fuse panel and a Glenn's Repair Manual that was full of different wiring diagrams for cars made by the Big Three.
Since my engine was a Chevy 283 with alternator I used the 64 Chevy diagram as my guide.
The car was then wired for ignition (key switch 55 Chevy) and all lighting and accessories using the same gauge wires and colors shown on the 64 diagram.
Terminals were soldered and Head and Tail Light pig tails were obtained at the Napa Store.
Was still working good when I sold the car two years later........... Jeff

 

Rebel will do just fine and is a no hassle deal. You just need a good crimp pliers.

 

Geez Andy that looks strangely like an amplifier schematic, lol.

 

Can't get much more basic than this LOL

 

A basic T-Bucket wiring harness will have everything you need and it will be very hard to duplicate the board and wire for the same amount of money. Turn signals complicate home wiring but it is all solvable.

 

Forget dinking with things, call Rebel Wire. Good product, great price and even better customer service!

 

Never understood why people bought those wiring kits. Wiring a street rod or race car is pretty straight forward. starter , ign brakes light& and signal. Head and tail lights including license plate light.????? Done OK horn if electric.
Go for it . In the time we have talked about it you would be 1/2 done. BTW I solder . No crimping for this ol boy.
Don

 

Has anyone found a supplier that uses the old style braided covered wire? I won't be looking at wiring for a little while but when I do I would prefer something a little less modern 'looking'. The emphaiss on looking is because I suspect there has to be an option where you can obtain braided covering over modern wire.

 

I bought a new wire kit for my 1947 Chevy truck 2 years ago, man how time flies, from Grumpys truck parts. They offered the plastic coated wire or the cloth covered. I chose the plastic coated because the reason I pulled out the old cloth covered wire was because of the years of abuse from the elements damage to the old harness. I thought this new harness will last longer and hold up down the road. I now do want the cloth covered harness. Maybe after paint iI will switch it out.

If you don't mind adjusting the length of the wire to the tail lights, you may be able to use a harness out of an ad Chevy truck. Cloth or more modern plastic harnesses available. Or call Rebel.

 

I've wired a bunch of cars from scratch but I can't buy the parts to do it even at my employee discount price for what Rebel charges. By the time you add up all the different colored wire you need, a fuse panel, and lots of other stuff that comes in the kit, the Rebel 9 + 3 kit works out cheaper.......and every wire is marked along it's length as to where it goes.

I don't think I will ever wire one without a kit again.

Don

 

I bought and aftermarket harness once, ,,,since then ive always wired up my own...much easier and cheaper...

 

I have wired three from scratch....I bought the Speedway "How to wire your streetrod" booklet....very simple and easy to understand. The first one... I did not know much above how to turn a light switch on.

The 55 f100 had power cowl vent, pw, p seat, tilt, etc....the only mistake I made was that I painted everything so well that I did not have a good ground for the headlights...put in 2 new ground wires and never looked back...never a fuse replaced or a system that did not work from beginning.

 

that's what I used and had I question, called rebel wire and they helped me . nice people also....

 

The only wiring a real hot rod needs is a good hill to start it on, and a mag wire to short out when you want to stop.

 

No such thing as a 'no frills' wireing job, esp if you use an early signal-stat turn signal to kep the period correct thing. All the 'kits' i have worked with are loosely based on a gm style column and you have a time incorporating the early turn signal into thier system.
If you have a street rod kind of thing then you can get most any kit and you are good to go. If you have a traditional then you are better off starting with a standard ignition FH28 6ckt block and going from there.