I figure there was few at the same time. You figure there was a bunch of drag races around the US at any given time during the season there was bound to be a few records made and documented at the same time. My info came from Beswick's video with a clip in that video from Drag News stating that the GTO was the first. I think the Ram Chargers were right there along with Jack Chrisman's Sachs and Sons Comet.
Donny saved what he could of the 63 car. He did sell it some years ago. Its good to know whats left is able to make a pass.
I have a bunch of Hot Rod mags from this era i got from my father in-law, and they state in an article i had read that at this time it was sometimes hard to say who set records because so much was going on at the same time. I should try to find the article so i can quote it correctly.
Hopefully some of you that check out this thread will be interested in an up-coming event that I am putting together. It is an AWB and F/X Reunion at Etown on Saturday, July 24. Looking for all sorts of AWB and straight axle cars. Steve Magnante will be the Grand Marshal and will be bringing one of his cars. This will be more of a show than a race but some cars will be making exhibition passes. If you have a period correct car, barn find, w.i.p., or street freak, give me a call (732 446 7800) or email to [email protected]. Walter Frey P.S. There will also be a model car show/ display for this type of car.
So what front axle was the go to axle for the day? Just curious? And is there any AWB Build threads going on on the HAMB now? If so can somebody post up a link?
a lot of people will tell you A100 Dodge and Ford Econoline but there were just as many round tube setups ran back then.
Funnycar65, you are right as always. There was cars with production small van beam axles, but most were hacked and ill-fitting. Very few used narrowed beam axles; they were a unique minority and not commonplace as "current" builds are. Tube axles were common back then, especially among GMs where a bolt-in Nova kit was easily had. Even well-known Chrysler guys such as Branstner were building MoPars with tube axles for other racers. The Mr. Norms' car ran an A-100 beam axle, but it was NOT narrowed. It had the spring pads redrilled so the leaf springs could be relocated further inward and directly under the framerails.
dont forget the offset rear hangers. the mopar performance hangers work well with some slight tweaking. drill a hole in the frame with a hole saw. slide a steel tube of the correct length and diameter in the frame then weld it in. the kit comes with bushings to. front mounts can be made from box tubing with one side cut off. the remainder can be cut on angles for a nice appearance. for added support washers can be added to the outside and welded in place. the best axle has the holes drilled in it for easy shock mounting. the other style uses a plate with the u-bolts and a shock stud. after market disc brakes will fit the spindles. reworking the steering arm with a torch and bending will most likely need to be done.
Not all altered wheelbase cars used a different front end susp. I am building mine with stock type front susp.
Hi; I'm using a single transverse spring and 4" drop tube axle on my AWB 65 comet. kinda like Chrismans 65, will also be Blown and Injected. Chris
the factory mopars all used a torsion bar set up. it was the home builts that used anything available. while i had good success with a torsion bar front end 7.47/189 i preferred the straight axle. first there was more room under the car. it was easier to get the oil pan off or work on the trans. second with the corvair steering box the steering felt slower and more predictable. you are going to be pulling wheelies and bouncing around and you dont need quick steering to unstablise the car during corrections going down the track. leaf springs can be mixed and matched to meet the load for your car. shocks are a vital part of the set up. the shocks have to control the springs as they really take some abuse. too hard of a susp. and frame and body damage can occur. too soft and a pogo stick situation can occur. there are few choices for torsion bars. one draw back to the axle is backing up. with a lot of positive caster built in it is imperative to hold onto the steering wheel with both hands. if you don't the wheel will be ripped out of your hand and you will go hard right or left before you know it. going forward the car could be driven one handed. watch the byron crash video. just before he backs up the wheels are turned. this video is a great example of what not to do in a straight axle car. i also tried a stiletto rack and pinion not only was it ugly i didnt like the feel. it seemed too quick and was always in the way under the car. also remember what goes up must come down. plan ahead for oil pans or lower blower pullies or fuel lines coming from a forward mounted tank. a big wheelie could make the axle hit some thing under there when you come down and compress the springs. speaking of oil pans make sure it is well baffled with trap doors and a rear sump. i have been witness to some serious disasters do to poor planning on some cars i have seen over the years.
Times two. Cutting the tops off just ruined them for me. They just looked like some sort of funny looking dragster, not a real car anymore. --- Steve ---
Most of the cars that had their tops removed had been rollovers. It was cheaper and faster to cut the roof off than to replace it. Remember that these guys made most of their money from match races - downtime meant no income.
im no fan of the look but i understand the reasons why they did it. its all part of the greatest era in drag racing. the only one i liked was the topless missile tonneau cover and all.
As always, good advice.. Just a suggestion from the sidelines, this being based upon the occasional "how do I" calls I get . Many try to set up front end caster in the initial stages of their builds, resulting in either too much, or too little positive caster. This has a TREMENDOUS outcome on the final result of how the car will handle. When Magnante and I built our cars, and as I continue to build straghtaxle cars out of my little shed, I wait until the car is on the ground, with a drivetrain, and as much weight as possible on the tires, before setting positive caster. I shoot for around eight degrees , with about 1/8th inch toe-in, for bias ply tires. At eight degrees, you get very little to no tire flop-over, and handling is excellent. The issue many have is setting it too early in the build, resulting in either too little as the car settles, or way too much as the vehicle develops a "nose high" attitude. Hope this bit helps anyone. Dale Snoke
Ed Raschinski's ""MARAUDERS INC"" '65 Comet, started as a two- door coupe, then morphed into a topless roadster, copper colored. This is still a ""dream build"" for me, as it was one of the only chopped top race cars that actually looked beautiful.. The car just oozed fast running.
I dream of building something like this- - someday. In the meantime, I keep on honing my AWB building skills: This will be the next to come out from under my welder.
The Jalopy Journal
