Projects 1948 Chevrolet fleetmaster

paint arrived for the body im ready to paint. Flat buckskin tan for the body, flat black for the fenders and roof i pick up Thursday







guess they have special products to detail flat/matte paint i guess




good flat paint. you guys know that company eastwood? theyre excellent on theyre tools and products and i use them the most, but all the good paints i wanted to buy they don't sell or ship to California, so if you have theyre color chip chart might as well just throw it away if youre in California. but tcp global will even single stage og oil based they don't care.

 

ok so I wanted the heads off to lube up the cylinders to get the flywheel to turn. I banged them out for 2 HOURS, only got them to move this much. thought man whatever they used to seal the head gasket I want to know what it is, it just wont release them!

turns out I just missed this bolt

heads off, now you see why the flywheel wouldn't turn

heads off, heads are still good

oiled the cylinders good, then slowly it started turning till I was able to get the last 2 bolts, then the clutch came off then the flywheel then the bell housing



as for the other bell housing, all I needed was more leverage

and its off

you have to take the flywheel off to get the last 4 bolts to release the bell housing.
cleaned it up



before

now



now I can get back to paint and body. turns out the field next to my house theyre finally building a house. they better bring in a scientist with that clickity click machine to test the place, it has more oil in that ground than irak.

I lit the dirt on fire once. you guys know what im talking about, not all of you recycle oil. if you bury something in that soil, it comes back to you, but its not the same..

 

Pomona was kind to me today it didn't leave me feeling like I was raped when I was leaving so im good. only problem was truck and car shop stand had a lot of stuff missing and was back at the shop and not there in Pomona. managed to get these things tho that I really really needed like that steering wheel finally

I have my original 48 cap, this cap will be for sale. and the front motor mounts

new tail lights

new turn signal lever

volt reducers

new insert for my hood ornament

and thanks to rich, he gave me a free bracket to see if I can mikey mouse the rear motor mount im missing. if it doesn't work hes got the bracket at home hell sell me so im good. thanks rich (I part out chevys)


back to work tomorrow, want to get a lot done this week. heres some pictures from Pomona










best baby carriage I ever seen, was 350 bucks

 

Great job you're doing on this Chevy and great pics too!

 

Monday, back to work. old dirty transmission


cleaned up and painted



ok does this look familiar to any of you guys? its what was busted on my transmission. the lever was broken on this link but what was holding it together and broke was a thin weak piece of metal. is this how it is supposed to be or was this a mikey mouse repair?





look what I found when I went inside to look for my clutch throwout fork, my missing motor mount =D

ok finally bell housing swapped, and flywheel and clutch installed

and transmission bolted in, got my motor mount and mounts, am ready to drop the motor in =D all that's left to do that is do the firewall which im doing tomorrow




now motor mounts complete


ill be driving this thin in days. tomorrow back to work

 

Cool build! Question about the peel n seal: Did you put it on the doors also or just the floor boards?

 

ok so today I got down to working on the motor again. my problem was that the starter that came with my motor was changed to a solenoid start not a pedal start. I didn't want that. but I couldn't use my old starter because when I took it off it dropped and broke an ear. this is what I did
anatomy of a starter
ok the problem. old starter, was pedal start but broken ear

new starter, good ear but solenoid push button start not pedal start. don't want that

pedal start

push button solenoid start

need to swap out the head, start lever, motor and the bottom the brushes

these screws come off


armature comes apart

levers work off a clutch fork style action

old motor, no good

armature still good just clean it up

this cover comes off

to show screws to take off bottom brush plate


same on this one


lever out, no good its a solenoid arm

put this one on the good head, pedal action arm

cleaned up the contact conductors

 

and put back on

old brushes out, new brushes on

drill a hole for the spring

this has to line up so you can screw on the brushes correct

easiest way to mount the motor on the brushes is like this. you have to pull them apart so the motor drops in and its too hard to do with the cap on on the bottom

holes on new and old cap didn't line up, this wont work the lever and conductor button wont line up

make a template off the old head with a piece of paper and grease off my finger


drill the new hole

and tap it so the bolts thread into it

put cap back on, run the long bolts back in and screw them in the new tapped holes. then put the screw to connect the brushes to the armature

disengaged

engaged (pedal pushed)

put cover back on

good to go, pedal start converted and rebuilt

 

thank you =) this is a home build not a shop build so its what anyone can do in theyre back yard

 

That is why I am really liking what you're doing! Best to you and yours!

 

thanks =) so far just the floor but I am slapping a layer inside the door after I clean it off and SMALL CUT PIECES on the underside of the roof. small pieces will stick even in the heat, one long piece will be heavy and with the heat will weigh it down and cause it to sag and fall off. you can put long strips, but be sure to get a razor blade and after its put on cut it every 6 inches and itll be just a series of small pieces

 

won this on ebay, anyone have any info on it? thinking it might be too new for my 48, but not white or blue to match my 59. anyone seen this one before? willing to trade for a hull beaconlight (oval) compass with bracket or the space egg looking 50s hull compass with bracket. pm me if one of you guys have one













[img width=700 height=525]http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y161/reyes213/48/2013-06-06132725_zpsbab3829f.jpg[/img]

 

took a look at this before I got going with my night, ok I have 2 intakes and header off 2 different motors. what is it I have to look for when putting one on? is there anything that can make the intake/exhaust manifolds bad? and on both of mine, this doesn't move

is that supposed to move or stay still? also, I have 2 carburators. whether they are good or need to be rebuilt, which one is better? one is a carter, the YG I think it is. the one on the left and the one on the right is a Rochester. which is better?

 

ok so this is where it all leads too, all caught up to today june 9th 2013 where im at at this point. there is progress every day, so check in every night about 9pm pacific. this car should be painted in a few days, and on the road driving in about 2 weeks

 

thank you. and yea if I can do it anyone can, I have no school or training just me and my socket set, grinder and eastwood spray gun. its just a matter of getting dirty and possible by anyone =)

 

as for the interior, I was taught how to use an industrial sewing machine and bought my own for 400 bucks on craigslist a WALKING FOOT machine. so yea for that youd need a special tool to get the seats done. but the rest of the interior, its just a matter of cutting out old panels and gluing and stapling fabric to it. and the door panels since the threads wont have to hold the pressure of someone sitting like it would the seat, you can use a home sewing machine to make the patterns on the door panel and just staple/glue the fabric to the new cut panel board and install it. I used a singer home sewing machine to make the door panels so you don't need a big expensive machine

 

today I finally got all my motor mounts the front and rear. had the fronts for a while, had to find the rears. truck and car shop didn't have the rears I needed, they had some M shaped ones. I and I didn't have them either and in Pomona I didn't find them. only chevsofthe40s had them. but once I got them, realized I could have used the fronts for the rears, its the front and transmission mount that supports the motor and tranny, the side mounts are just supports for vibration. so I could have used the fronts for the rears they are same bolt and line up the same and are thick enough just different shape

 

got to get everything done on the firewall so I can drop the motor in. as it sat this morning



I had hit it before but like a year ago and it got surface rust on it. looks good but you cant tell in these pics cause I took them when It wasn't as bright and the flash makes it look the same like before. but it looks good, metal is good, ready for primer



figured im dirty, might as well hit this too. even though you cant see it, going to primer it as well and paint it black. not going to be a show car but a very clean cruiser this car will be rust free and everything redone






ran out of daylight, will primer it in the morning and will post pictures at night. ok, this is obviously original off the firewall on my 48. im still running the generator so I need this right? but because of the cloth wires im guessing its a 6 volt. how can I tell if it is or not? when I bought it, it was running and driving off a 12 volt battery and had a generator. whats the point of this what if I run it without it?


also really happy right now, I THOUGHT my rear end was seized, thought I was going to have to take it apart and replace whole rear end, or the gears inside the pumpkin, or the axles, or the driveshaft, something whatever it was that caused the back wheels not to turn. well I had the drivers side up and to take the wheel off and yea it was seized, wasn't turning at all like I thought. but when I put up the passenger rear, the wheel turned. and when I turned the wheel so did the driveshaft that goes into the transmission so I see its good. but does that sound right? only the passenger rear wheel turns free along with the driveshaft, but the driver rear doesn't? and Im hoping its seized because of the brakes. but is the driver rear wheel supposed to turn with the passenger wheel or no? do any of you know or know whats going on?

 

Nice car. You are doing a great job on it and thanks for posting the photos. I look forward to seeing photos of your car when it's finished.

 

Good job keep the pics coming, I like the documentation

 

Excellent. Can't wait for your thread on the '59.

 

this was hanging off my old coil, but don't have it on my new one. do I need it?

and found this lever inside the car, but don't remember where it came off of. look familiar to anyone?

got to work alittle late, but finished what I wanted to get done today. as it sat this morning when I got up

grinded, little body work and sanding, now its primered





now just sand the primer and paint the firewall tomorrow and the motor drops right in. rebuild the carb tomorrow night turning it on for the first time Thursday night, driving it by sunday

 

I think it's called a ballast resistor. It keeps your coil from heating up unless you have a newer ignition set up. The experts will have to chime in.

 

I'd like to know more about what looks to be a 65,66 or 67 impala under the cover. I love me some call lowriders!.

 

The 59 is sick also!

 

thanks guys, and that car under the cover is my 65 impala

 

and the 59 im going to start a thread on the build even tho im almost done. only posting a few pictures, I want the thread im starting on it to do all the showing

from this





to this. so far but not done yet, the thread im making will cover all of this

 

the day I got it. ill start the thread soon