Any news about that new block? I assume your gonna want it to move under its own power for a specific date...
Well, the "new block" did have a crack in it. One of the typical ones that started at the cylinder (didn't go into it, but stated at) and went to the nearest valve seat. Fortunately its being repaired now and should be getting it back in the next few weeks. So we'll see. Unfortunately Tim, I don't think its going to be powering us on our specific date. In its stead will be the trusty Oldsmobile . Will let you know the date as soon as I know FYI.
Well as I mentioned above the Flathead build is on hold, due to crack issues. So in its place I've been busy setting up my new work space and thought I would christen it with cutting up my dash, and seeing how much damage I could do to it. Since I modified my cowl I have a nice 1-1/8" gap above the stock dash location so to make it up I ended sectioning the top of it 1-1/8" and moving it up one of the stock bolt holes in the dash so it will bolt into the stock location without modification. If that makes sense?.....if not see below. Current problem with modified cowl... Solution: Stock. I have to say. These do come in real handy on long panels. Thanks Dad. The Results... So after all this, I should be able to actually operate the e-brake without hitting the dash and not have to slope the shifter all that much. All said and done the dash will have be raised about 2-1/4". Keeping a stock look hopefully and more interior room!
Dash looks great... Looks similar to a T dash I save a few years ago! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=299104 http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=299843
Thanks Chadd, you are where I got the idea from a few years ago! Just finally got around to making it happen. Then the sectioning came from the lack of clearance for shifting and operating the e-brake. However the sectioning seems like it made the dash a little more proportional. The T dashes always seemed to be a flat and a little heavy on the eye.
Wow, that is one of the best T's ever! Keep up the fine work and thanks for taking us along during the build.
Wow that dash looks much much better! I'm a little shocked at how much the proportions changed. Good deal
Well, I'd like to go check for you however its all torn apart for the winter. However. I'm fairly certain that its something close to 110. The length was made up by adding four inches outback in the Z step and whatever the axle moved out from the spring behind set up, I think theres about 3 inches out front.
Quick update. Had a little fun in the garage the other night with some new gauges and a drill press (courtesy of my grandfather). Christmas brought me some gauges, which what pushed me to get the dash done. Its funny how new little additions can provoke inspiration. It'll be a mix of gauges, just two types I guess. The 2-5/8" S.W. deluxe accessory set and the repro. S.W. Winged Tach/Speedo.
I like that dash! what is it out of? I'm thinking of using S.W. repros for my car too, unless I can find (and afford) originals......
Been a little busy with work lately so progress has slowed a bit. Although I'm starting to grow some confidence when it comes to this metal work thing. SO much that I might have bit off more than I can chew....I think I opened up a can of worms. This last fall we chopped the T which was great, but now I'm beginnig to piece it back and am running in to the rot that I had been dreading. The top of the drivers side door seems to be pretty well gone. We'll have to see how this goes. I've never had any lessons on body work really just a few conversations so this will definitely be a learning experience. The rot....(what I cut out) I'll be tackling this over the weekend. Probably have to remake the inner structure first then make a pattern for this. I don't know...!?!? My progress until now... I formed this with my bench vise round stock and hammer....the problem was though the T door curves in two directions, hence the reliefs cut into the replacement piece. The outer skin got wrapped up tonight, so this weekend the substructure and inner door pieces are up next.
We've all been in that boat at one point or another. There are some parts on my roadster that I welded up months ago or over a year ago that I look at and think "Gee.. I better go back and redo that part."
I wanted to thank JeffreyJames as well for the surprising write up on, Sugar City Speed Shop, regarding my build. Completely caught me off guard, didn't ever think I'd see something like that. Thanks again! The article. http://www.sugarcityspeedshop.com/2013/01/model-t-tuesday-oh-boy-here-comes-oldsboy/
Just a quick update. I finished up the rest of top side drivers door, so now I just need to take a few measurements from the body then add the new strip of material to finish it up. Until I can get out to the body I'm working on finishing up a few things I've been putting off just because its that type of work. I made a spring spacer for the rear transverse spring because I wanted the to raise the rear a bit. Rather than re-Z'ing the frame I made an adapter/spacer for the model T spring to ride in which also makes up the difference between the 2.25" A cross member and the 2" spring. Awhile ago I made one that raised it about .75" but after having the wheels and everything mocked up I wanted to push that up; the new spacer is a 2.5" spacer. Pattern. Product. (old one and the new one.)
Lookin good! Can you explain to me how you raised the area inside the 90 deg part of the door top? The pictures of it in the vice probably show it but I feel like I'm missing something. Did you basicly hammer form it and then weld up the gap or did you bend it twice then weld the gap? I.e. bend the tabs up and then bend them back over level at the desired height then weld the gap? Looking forward to seeing it all in person, and of course I'm sure the speed holes in the spacer should be good for at least another 5hp
Well you got it right. I ended up bending the two tabs up then using a piece of 1/8" steel to hammer them back down on, creating the step. Then just tack welded the center which seemed to work pretty well. Nice analysis.
Cool man, that's generally how I make things with my fancy vice and giant chunk of steel I use for a hammer so I'm used to thinking out processes like that. Glad to see stuff gettin done havn't touched the 46 since it got to cold but I did score some new to me bumpers yesterday in a 42-8 honey hole
How have I missed this? I have a '27 Tudor in the works.....You gave me a few ideas. I really like the dash treatment.
I just read your thread. Some how I missed this thing. I Been really impressed with your work and the direction of your build. This is now one of my favorite threads keep up. The awesome work.
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