Rear axle is coming together. Pics are of b4 and after blasting the bells. The axle ends have been repired where there were grooves from normal wear. New housing bearing and races along with new end seals. Waiting on my rad from Superior to arrive so I can set my motor mounts.
2935ford - I am defintely going to subscribe to this one. My 2 cents worth on the wishbone issue - replace as you planned - that repaired item doesn't look pretty in the pics. I look forward to updates. Cheers.
Update. Well, progress has ground down to a crawl. I have been blasting away and painting those parts but I am at the mersey of the shipping lords (USPS) and the boarder lords (US and Canada). It now takes almost twice as long to get stuff delivered! Stay tuned!
Ok, so I have been talked out of my first thouht for front brakes..... disc. I placed a local add and came up with a complete '56 axle having everything I need for the F100 conversion minus the inner bearings I'll need. I'll get things apart, checked out, cleaned, blasted, painted, fitted and installed then I'll be done with the fronts. Some progress at least.
An up then down then up again day today. The postal lady delivered my Superior rad this morning. After waiting almost 3 weeks for it to arrive! Boy, was I happy. Took it out of the box...did some quick mounting and added the shell and my heart sunk....it appeared not to fit. BIG BUMMER. Pictures of sending it back and waiting another 3 weeks raced through my mind....ugh! I took pictures..called Charlie at Superior. Sent him the pics and he wanted to know what was wrong. It's obvious what was wrong...the rad is to short. Then he calmly, simply pointed out their rad bottom tank does not drop below the mounting flange like the stock one does. Oh my....duh, red faced!!!! I went back out set it back on the frame added the grill shell.....everything lines up nicely. A little trimming on the mounting flange cause they are liberal with it...a litle tweaking of the shell mounting flanges and....have a happy day and remember not to panic! Add to this....I had ordered some pedal pads for the stock clutch and brake from Mac's got them and no way are they going to fit. Description said fits 32 - 48 I don't think so folks. The bolt is to big to go through the stock arm holes and I'm not drilling my arms to make it fit. Called Mac's......simple....don't return...keep them and they gave me an in store credit for the amount.....I'm happy. Life is good once more. Now onward!
Looking good like din dar pic's and story line . Keep her acomin love them old trucks.And HRP wow ! nice trucks. Roger
Thanks guys. Put a few hours on fittin that rad in the frame. Seems we're making it way to complex cause we still haven't drilled a mounting hole? The new rad mounting flange is wider than the stock one and setting it w/o trimming the flange sides to settle into the mounting crossmember surface doesn't work so good.
I like em with fenders. The sheet metal is going back on just the way it came off. No new paint only the repair to the drivers side A pillar.
Ok....need some help here. I have my rad from Superior. They built it with the lower tank above the mounting tabs/flange. As I see it...this now causes you to have to raise your engine up to try to even up the bottom water ports. This also causes the Tardel motor mounts to want to rise above the inside frame rail and in raising the front of the engine it pulls the trans mount away from the K member at the bottom? I can't be the first one attempting this. I'm using truck water pumps. I'm lining up the centre of the rad to the centre of the front crossmember. The rad shell fits like it does with the stock 4 banger rad so I have to assume the hood will line up correctly. I do not have the cab body on yet to see if there will be clearance issues there? Ideas/suggestions?
One more item forgot to mention. I am not able to align the crank hole with the pulley centre as the pulley will then be hitting the bottom back and lip at the rear of the front crossmember.
Great pictures! keep em comming. My '32 has a 59 A and a Columbia two speed rear end. Working on top end up grades too.
You don't have to mount the cab,,just mount the firewall,,that's the beauty of building any deuce. I wish I could offer some help with the radiator problem but I've never used a Superior Radiator,,only Walkers and I've never encountered any mounting problem with it on my pickup. HRP
I hate to see you going through the rollercoaster of emotions, all the inner turmoil and frustration. You should probably just sell me the whole project!
Flowmeister.....I should, shouldn't I. My life would then be so uncomplicated. you're a funny man!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ok, got it. The rad is fine. Well, in the sense that it is going to work after I correctly set it in place. The rad shell helps because it sits on the frame like it did wit the 4 cly rad. HOTRODPRIMER, I haven't pulled my firewall out....not sure I want to...so, maybe placing the cab on is my option. I was doing things the wrong way round. I now understand with the help of XIX32 what I was doing wrong, thanks Mark. This 59A engine was built with a AV8 '29 roadster in mind. I have '49 truck wide belt water pumps installed and a single crank pulley done up to mate up to the pumps. In this app, it no longer applies. I need '48 wide belt pumps and a stock 59A (double) pulley, which I have, to let me drop my engine to the correct height of 2 3/8" from the centre line of the crank pulley to the top of the frame rail. The back pulley will be behind the lip of the crossmember and the front pulley in the well of the crossmember and with the front pulley I can now add a gen/fan combo. So, all is right with the world again. Hey, that's hot rodding! I do still have engine mount issues but I have a good idea where I'm gong with that. More to come.
good decision there. May i make a small request that you post up pics of the engine mounting and radiator/pulley arrangement? I am thinking about a similar project and learning from what others work through is not cheating!
treb11 sure, no problem. The pic here is of Mark's. He's the fellow who told me about this setup. It all makes sense when you si back and look at it. If using the stock K member and attaching the trans mount to it....everything forward of that needs to fall in line just like stock weither a stock 32 V8 or later flathead........doesn't matter. You should be able to put a crank handle through the stock hole and hit dead on with the crank pulley. I will accomplish this by using he '48 pumps and a stock two pulley from my 59A motor ala Mark's. I am still debating which way to go on the motor mounts. The issue: Stock type mounts interfere with the pulley and you can't use the z'd hose connectors for the offset rad to engine water ports. Rail mounts (Tardel type) work and allow the use of the z'd hose connectors. But as Mark notes....rail mounts now shift the engine weight from the crossmember as Henry designed to the rails. I'm not sure i is a big feal as it has been done so often.....but....I'm not an engineer!
So, to update. My rear axle is in wait mode now. I had to replace the centre driveshaft bearings and double race that holds them. They can get the bearings in anytime but the double race is in Tenn. Could be 3 weeks but at least...they can still be had! Thanks Tmkin. I still have lots to do with engine/rad aligment and changing out the disc brake setup to Bendix.
Well....a little more work in the garage tonight. I have an old crusty 59A engine that I occassionally steal parts off of. Tonight it was the wide belt double crank pulley as I need it along with the 48 wide belt pumps. It appears I already had one all clean and pretty...at least I think they are the same? That's Ok...it needed to come off.
On the front setup.. you can use the stock 32 mounts with the later pre48 pumps, you grind a slot in the web of the mount for the belt to run through, i have an old pair here that were done like this years ago, no sign of cracking or anything. the offset hose connectors I made myself to fit. not quite finished yet..its very tight, but it all works. The pulley on the generator actually lines up with the back groove, same distance out as the waterpump pulleys.so you may not need the front groove, unless you use it to just run the fan at a lower height than the generator.
lowsquire...thank you. Yes I know about this mod. Mark has made these mounts and tells me there is no intereference but the z'd hose connectors from We're only '32 won't work.
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