Saving a 32 Ford Body

few more shots!

 

Nice work! Really impressive.

 

Here are a few more shots of the electrolysis process. Somewhat time consuming and makes a mess!! It WILL kill the grass.

 

I am going to jump around on the order of the work here a little (you'll see some work I have not posted on yet in the shots). One of the areas that was really bad was the inner qtr lip on the right qtr. Rus and a really bad repair had taken it's toll.

I made a pattern of the curve on poster board. This allows me to keep the curve correct as I work the area. Much of the area was cut out and pieced in.

I seriuosly thought about cutting the entire area out but was concerned about loosing the intergrity of the qtr.

The last shots show a pull being made to get the qtr line straight. Something in it's earlier life had damaged qtr at the ridge. This squared things up.

 

This is a great save to follow, is it too early to think about the final color?

 

No problem. Wait until the neighbors go out and go do it over at their house.

 

Hay this is coming along nicely! Mine is much the same so your ideas will help me when i go at mine.. keep at it..

 

Color? 1957-Porsche Dark Blue perhaps

 

Are you sure Fitzee that yours is this solid . I cant wait till you start on it, this thread should be a great inspiration!

 

Looking awesome, really bring it back to life. Going to be a awesome car when its all done. What do you use for the electrolysis process, as far as a acid or what cleans it. Tell me alittle more if you would looks like it works awesome and I have a rusty body thats Im going to need to get it clean eventually.

 

well done rc!

 

The key process of electrolysis is the interchange of atoms and ions by the removal or addition of electrons from the external circuit. The required products of electrolysis are in some different physical state from the electrolyte and can be removed by some physical processes. For example, in the electrolysis of brine to produce hydrogen and chlorine, the products are gaseous. These gaseous products bubble from the electrolyte and are collected.<SUP id=cite_ref-Tilley2004_1-0 class=reference>[2]</SUP>
<DL><DD>2 NaCl + 2 H<SUB>2</SUB>O &#8594; 2 NaOH + H<SUB>2</SUB> + Cl<SUB>2</SUB></DD></DL>A liquid containing mobile ions (electrolyte) is produced by

• Solvation or reaction of an ionic compound with a solvent (such as water) to produce mobile ions
• An ionic compound is melted (fused) by heating

An electrical potential is applied across a pair of electrodes immersed in the electrolyte.
Each electrode attracts ions that are of the opposite charge. Positively charged ions (cations) move towards the electron-providing (negative) cathode, whereas negatively charged ions (anions) move towards the positive anode.
At the electrodes, electrons are absorbed or released by the atoms and ions. Those atoms that gain or lose electrons to become charged ions pass into the electrolyte. Those ions that gain or lose electrons to become uncharged atoms separate from the electrolyte. The formation of uncharged atoms from ions is called discharging.
The energy required to cause the ions to migrate to the electrodes, and the energy to cause the change in ionic state, is provided by the external source of electrical potential.
Oxidation and reduction at the electrodes

Oxidation of ions or neutral molecules occurs at the anode, and the reduction of ions or neutral molecules occurs at the cathode. For example, it is possible to oxidize ferrous ions to ferric ions at the anode:
<DL><DD>Fe

2+
aq​

&#8594; Fe

3+
aq​

+ e<SUP>&#8211;</SUP></DD></DL>It is also possible to reduce ferricyanide ions to ferrocyanide ions at the cathode:
<DL><DD>Fe(CN)

3-
6​

+ e<SUP>&#8211;</SUP> &#8594; Fe(CN)

4-
6​

</DD></DL>Neutral molecules can also react at either electrode. For example: p-Benzoquinone can be reduced to hydroquinone at the cathode:
+ 2 e<SUP>&#8211;</SUP> + 2 H<SUP>+</SUP> &#8594;
In the last example, H<SUP>+</SUP> ions (hydrogen ions) also take part in the reaction, and are provided by an acid in the solution, or the solvent itself (water, methanol etc.). Electrolysis reactions involving H<SUP>+</SUP> ions are fairly common in acidic solutions. In alkaline water solutions, reactions involving OH<SUP>-</SUP> (hydroxide ions) are common.
The substances oxidised or reduced can also be the solvent (usually water) or the electrodes. It is possible to have electrolysis involving gases.

 

Seriuosly Here's What you need:source stovebolt tech forum
A plastic tub; an iron electrode, water and washing soda (Arm & Hammer, for example) and a battery charger. About a tablespoon of soda to a gallon of water. If you have trouble locating the washing soda. Also household lye will work just fine.You might want to wear gloves. NOTE: It is the current that cleans, not the solution; nothing is gained by making a more concentrated solution -- DON'T!
THE POLARITY IS CRUCIAL!! The iron or stainless electrode is connected to the positive (red) terminal. The object being cleaned, to the negative(black). Submerge the object, making sure you have good contact, which can be difficult with heavily rusted objects. Get it backwards and your object will be relentlessly eaten away! Make connections on a part of your electrode that protrudes out of the solution, or your clamps will erode rapidly.
How do I know if it is working?
Turn on the power. If your charger has a meter, be sure some current is flowing. Again, on heavily rusted objects, good electrical contact may be hard to make-it is essential. Multi-part objects may not have good electrical connections between them. Fine bubbles will rise from the object when cleaning is in progress.
How long do I leave it?
The time depends on the size of the object and of the iron electrode, and on the amount of rust. You will have to test the object by trying to wipe off the rust. If it is not completely clean, try again. Typical cleaning time for moderately rusted objects is a few hours. Heavily rusted objects can be left over night.
How do I get the rust off after I remove the object?
Rub the object under running water. A paper towel will help. For heavily rusted objects, a plastic pot scrubber can be used, carefully. Depending on the amount of original rust, you may have to re-treat. The amount of mechanical action will depend on the fragility of the object. Use your discretion.
My object is too big to fit. Can I clean part of it?
Yes. You can clean one end and then the other. Lap marks should be minimal if the cleaning was thorough.

 

Took a break last weekend to pickup my next project....

obviuosly I need some parts...anyone have a couple doors, decklid and qtr for a 32 3 window?

 

I'm jealous, you're really doing that body some good. The new project looks like another fun one!

 

I might just have to read all that agian,good job

 

Thanks for the awesome info. That looks like another great project

 

This process is "line of sight", correct? In other words, if the rust is on the bottom side there has to be an electrode on the bottom side?

 

yes it is, molasses works very well also

 

Thats how it should be done.Save the doomed.You gotta finish it.

 

Time for another update....Started repairing the ends of the qtrs. Boht the right and left qtrs are pretty much gone where the qtr attaches tot he lower panel that fits below the decklid.

 

A few more posts... final pic bolted together

 

Wow!

Great work.

 

All I can say is WOW, and subscribed.
P.S. Slepe67 how about that you finally got some subrail pics!!!

 

Great Thread, Amazing work. Indyjps

 

As always you are the Master..........but, if you are going that shade of blue, why not Washington blue?

 

not sure on the blue....found one on the net, not as fired up as I was with the color