Imron wont lay flat!?!

Any ideas why a Imron flat black ended with a texture like a golf ball? Its orange peeled all over. The color and shine are good but the texture is terrible. The shop that did it says that's just the way it goes on, that it wont lay flat. Thanks for the input.

 

Not reduced properly I would say. Didnt think you could even get that paint anymore

 

I like to use the Imron satin black on my frames and suspension parts. It normally lays on flat, but takes forever to get hard. I don't know about the texture you are getting.

 

I believe you're supposed to heat imron before spraying.

 

There are at least three different kinds of Imron that I use..
Industrial Imron goes on just like you described.
It can be thinned up to 10% to lay down a little smoother.

 

He lives in Florida. I've seen it warmed in cold shop conditions.
Could be too thick, air pressure too low (didn't atomize), gun tip size too large, surface too warm, first coat too dry, etc.

 

http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/eqsc/QualityStandards/PaintCoating/PaintCoating_pdf/DuPontImron5000.pdf

this tells a lot about Imron's characteristics

 

i've had problems with urethane paints doing that in humid conditions.

 

I am willing to bet they added some fish-eye eliminator to it, that is exactly what happens to it if its added.

 

Had an O/T CJ5 that had been painted black Imron....smooth as glass and shiny forever

 

People are still using Imron? And why?

 

I can't answer for others but on my OT Peterbilt I had a fender painted with baseclear and got around 20 stone chips in 2 years. The other fender has 5 year old imron and has maybe 5. Back to Imron for me. I found the same thing with orange peel. The painters I talk to say it's hard to be consistent. That and cost/availability seem to be the biggest problems. For a commercial truck I can live with the finish. For a hot rod probably not.

 

make sure u wear a mask or u will lay flat...very sticky stuff for ur lungs....

 

"Back in the day" the cool cars were shiny.

 

"make sure u wear a mask or u will lay flat...very sticky stuff for ur lungs...."

x10!! nasty stuff!


Imron-I used once on a customers car because he insisted on it-got sold on how tough it was, but we never could get it to look good...it was way to hard to cut & polish and it wouldn't flow.. After talking to the paint rep, this is what he told me - "IMRON is great for roll bars, suspension parts & scuba tanks, not so good for cars, that's not what it's designed for..." I think it's intended to be more of an industrial coating than an auto paint...just my experience.

Eric

 

I've seem Imron go on 2 ways, 1st is how his is, 2nd is smooth and laying all over the floor!

 

Special K is right---Imron is supertough. Very chip resistant. I always specced Imron on our OTR units with good success---hard as nails.

 

Imron is polyurethane. A good polyurethane9Imron or others) does more things better than other types of paints.

The only thing I can add to what's already been posted is that to be smooth Imron needs to go on relatively heavy. It takes some adjusting, even for experienced painters. If you don't get an occasional run you are very, very, good, or, you aren't laying it on heavy enough. Start with a normal first coat, let that cure till it's gelled up well, then one or two(usually two) heavier coats.

 

The thing I didn't like about Imron was that when it did chip, it took off all paint down to the metal. As for laying down nice- check with the paint supplier. Sounds like poor atomization- possibly due to low air pressure at the gun. When we used to spray it (25 years ago), it always laid down nice and smooth.