Have been thinking about building something stylish and classic for a while. Looking here and there, found some amazing scratch builds. I am thinking about 4 banged lakes modified style roadster, as I live in place where you just could not find any old iron at reasonable price, and it seems that this style would be most easy to build from scratch. "Easy" is relative term, I know What I haven't found is the typical overall dimensions like length, width, wheelbase, length of the tub and etc for these kind of cars. It seems that most of these builds are pretty short and narrow, but the photos could be wrong. So I would appreciate any hints. I hope I didn't ask something too stupid, I know, that it would be my own car anyway, but its easier to have something to begin with
I think that the reason they are so damned cool is that there is no "exact" specification on how they should be built. But this 26/27 is a PNW car that pretty well has it all right on the numbers. A different one that shows up at events once in a while The camera did something weird in this shot
Lots of freedom with a Lakes Modified. Some use RPU cabs, some use touring bodies cut down, some are Ford, some are... There are some great examples out there though.
I'm partial to the front axle under the front crossmember. Then you can get the wheelbase down to 90-91 inches.
This is a car that I hand built, wheel base was 98", the cab was a glass one that is smaller than stock but I don't know by how much and it was a tight squeeze. I had a Chevy II in it with a turbo 350 and a 48 merc rear. The short wheel base and light make them interesting to drive at highway speeds, especially when it's windy, but they are fun around town !
What was the original reason for that quarter elliptic springed front suspension anyway? The construction simplicity? Better handling than single cross-mounted spring equipped one? Actually I kinda like that quarter elliptic look, I even don't know why...
Right you are as far as scratch building (or nearly so) one of these. Just about the time I find an inexpensive offbeat cowl laying around, an axle and wish bones, and a few other bits and peices I throw one together. This is the third I have started and it's just one of those work on it as I have time to kinda deals. the other two have both been bought by customers and finished before I had a chance to do for me, so this one probably won't be any exception. The wheelbase is 99 1/2 inches, the front axle is a '32-'36 ford so tread width is right on 63". Rear axle is model "A" Ford, so it's tread is also right on 63". Tires and wheels are '36-'39 Ford wide fives with 5.00X16" dirt treads up front, and 7.50 X16" light truck treads on the back. The "tub" or body length is 54 1/2" from the back edge of the hood to the peak of the rear seat. It's 32 1/2" wide across the dash, and 40" wide at the rear body posts. I started with a '27 or '27 cowl and narrowede it up 6", and made the body sides out of 18 ga. steel with a brake and a shinker stretcher. The body subrails are 1" X 3" .065 steel tube. I copied the proportions of the '26 - '27 touring front half very closely, because to me it makes all the difference in the appearance in profile, but layed the seat back a bit more to gain some much needed leg room in the cockpit. Once again, the seat is 18ga. steel bent with a flanging tool and a shinker stretcher. Power is a 2.3 liter Ford and auto.
Yeah...those 1/4 Elips...were they "the way" back on the dry lakes? I'm really partial to a nice Lakes Mod...but I prefer the shorter wheelbase and transverse spring design. I'm wondering if 1/4 Elips are a more modern takeoff on the early 3 Springer look.
I tried to stay close to a lakes mod. No hood or doors make it a little wacky, but close. Fun trying to get everything in a regular car, in this small of a package and still fit a human or two (no fat jokes, please).
Honestly Hackerbuilt, I think you are right. I have done tons of research on these cars over the years, ( I first saw Bo Jones car in the mags in the early '70s and loved it) but I really haven't seen 1/4 ellips to often on cars back in the day. I don't think they were all that common on these 'till Bo's car in the late sixties. I love the look though. It is really easy to over do them lenthwise on one of these. They start to loose proportion really quick with them too long. In my mind, in profile the rear edge of the front tire should be even with gril shell. Too much farther forward than that and it looks kinda like a drag strip refugee gone wrong. Mine are 14 1/2" from the center bolt to the spring eye, and were made from an after market '28-'34 spring cut in half.
Local guy drives this one. I think it is engraved into my heart forever. Best thing was he told the dad to stick the kid in the car for a picture. Very cool.
The Zipper Lakester is 103" WB (same as a stock A). The quarter elliptic springs give it a 50/50 weight distribution in my particular car.
I'm building one now, it'll have a V8 but with the right motor it could be a banger too. In my research/checking the wheelbase isn't as big an issue as to whether you want to channel the body or not. The above examples have the body sitting on the rails i think, the pic i've included is a hambr from australia and sets the bar for when you channel.
I should mention, if you haven't figured it out, that the 26-27 't' is the better tub to work with as it has a deep cowl and you need that to get some leg room. That is if you are doing a T, which is the classic body. Here is my favorite, Dick Kraft. Tough to get one as good as this.
Here is mine http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=676 120 inch Wheelbase. 4 inch widened body. full tube chassis with torsion bars on the front and transverse leaf spring on rear. 215 inch Alloy Buick V8, 2speed auto and QC rear end. When sitting in it my shoulders are even with the top edge of the body.....I am 6 foot 1" tall.
woodbox, When i read that your wheelbase was 120" i thought it would look lousy, checked it out and it looks really good, nice proportions. Making the hood longer and getting the grille almost to the axle really gives it a sleek look. Like the tube chassis design too, very nice work
117harv, I think the additional width helps to carry the length. I really could not get it any shorter and keep it low. It was designed to run in a straight line with little effort!
look here, best damn thread ever http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=32889 heaps of info here, do a search, I must have about 10 threads subscribed that deal with modifieds still workin on mine
Good thing it's a big world with lot's of room for all opinions, 'cause the Bo Jones car just flat got me years ago... I like the older stuff too, and damn near anything Jimmy B posts is alright with me, but in my mind the narrowed up cars have it!
For sure everyone has their opinion, I like the Bo Jones mod as an individual car just not the continual stream of carbon copies that spring up in its image. I suppose it annoys me too that Bo Jones mod is the car used to define what is/makes a lakes modified & not the car that brought attention back to the actual mods that raced in the 30s and 40s. Sorry to digress back to regular programming.
Not Dick Krafts...owned and built by a man named Proulx around 1941-2. Theres a thread on the HAMB about it already.
I also like the look with the front wheels/tires under the radiator versus the stretched, quarter leafs or typical suicide front end. Narrowed bodies and widened are the builders option. If you build your own body keep in mind the the 26/27 Ts have a lot of compound curves. Frame material, with out a big block or killer horsepower, can be 1.5" x 3" x .095. Check out my album for pics and good luck.
I was questioning if that was Kraft or not, his muscles looked too small. I had picked this out of another thread about Dick Kraft and his 'bug' and presumed it to be authentic. Thanks for clarifing. That really is an incredible car and would like to know more about it.
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